2LikesTekno RC EB48 Thread
05-22-2013 | 06:00 AM
#6635
Tech Master
iTrader: (33)
Joined: May 2003
Posts: 1,486
From: Greenville, SC
...says the guy commenting about not using proper sentence structure and punctuation while not using any either... (and yes I didn't either)
How about we leave grammar out of the thread and keep it technical, and purple bling for those that want it
How about we leave grammar out of the thread and keep it technical, and purple bling for those that want it
05-22-2013 | 06:34 AM
#6636
05-22-2013 | 06:48 AM
#6637
Arm sweep info posted on the first page of the sct410 thread.
Arm Sweep
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)
When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about
The purpose of sweeping the arm forward or backward is mostly to sweep the driveshafts forward or backward. When the driveshafts are angled it changes how the car reacts on and off power. (This goes for the rear driveshafts as well.)
When the driveshafts are swept forwards, the stub axles are being twisted down toward the ground, pushing down on the tires and lifting the front of the chassis. This can be helpful in really bumpy sections to keep the front up and not dig in. It will also create more weight transfer to the front during braking which will increase your off-power steering.
When the driveshafts are swept backwards, the stub axles are now being twisted up, lifting the tires and pushing the chassis down. We've found that the biggest benefit to sweeping the arms back is jump landing. With the arms back, the car kind of "sucks" itself to the ground. It settles much faster and allows you to get on the throttle immediately. During breaking and off throttle the chassis will stay a little flatter front to back and either feel "pushy" or more controlled into the corner.
You can adjust the rear sweep by changing the wheelbase.
It's possible to have toe in on the rear and have the axles swept backwards (not on our car, I'm just making a generalization), but it doesn't handle well. It will squat really hard on acceleration and the nose will dip under braking. If any of you have ever driven a Revo with the long wheelbase rear arms you know what I'm talking about
05-22-2013 | 11:08 AM
#6639
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,808
From: Texas
Who is going to be the first one to try this with their EB48? http://www.neobuggy.net/2013/05/22/a...-system-by-rb/
05-22-2013 | 11:17 AM
#6640
Ordered the new v-port CSI blue pistons to try out w/the 2.8/2.6 swaybars. I should have left the stock pistons alone... Gonna try to stick w/the kit springs and put the heavier bars on like protc3's talking about.
05-22-2013 | 11:18 AM
#6641
Lol fits great ! I recessed the sensor wires into side of case and ran them down under ESC shelf. The on/off switch and RX lead I shoegooed ton the case running strait down and still have about 1.5mm on 3 sides of ESC and 10mm between motor/ESC.
05-22-2013 | 11:36 AM
#6642
I used the stock piston up front and drilled 5 holes in rear to 1.2 and used 30wt all around and have to say car felt pretty good with my first spring set up (pink front /green rear ) but now that I have kyosho baby blue all around car feels a little to firm in front and kinda thin in rear .
Might swap pistons out front to rear and see how that feels
Those RB piston/sleeves seem pretty cool . good idea for sure . only thing about the setup is that the piston usually rides 20-40% up into the body at neutral . I would think it would need a range that felt the same for normal acceleration/cornering/breaking and a firmer port for landing . maby even different sleeves to make adjustments .
Ill definately be willing to give then a shot . alot easier swaping sleeves than pistons . ..
Might swap pistons out front to rear and see how that feels
Those RB piston/sleeves seem pretty cool . good idea for sure . only thing about the setup is that the piston usually rides 20-40% up into the body at neutral . I would think it would need a range that felt the same for normal acceleration/cornering/breaking and a firmer port for landing . maby even different sleeves to make adjustments .
Ill definately be willing to give then a shot . alot easier swaping sleeves than pistons . ..
05-22-2013 | 01:41 PM
#6645
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 3,808
From: Texas
I'm not sure. If they work it won't take long for other companies to come out with their copies. My guess would be someone making that shock that still uses a big bore piston and bigger dia. springs. Hopefully some of the nitro MBX7 or K car guys will start trying them out soon. It's an interesting idea to say the least.