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Old 05-23-2013 | 10:30 AM
  #6661  
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I guess I found my next body
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Old 05-23-2013 | 10:38 AM
  #6662  
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Not a fan of the new body myself, I like the sleek lines of the top of the Tekno body. Obviously others have the opposite opinion though, and I'm glad there are starting to be more options for the car.
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Old 05-23-2013 | 10:43 AM
  #6663  
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I do want to see what Proline could come up with in the Bulldog department though
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Old 05-23-2013 | 10:47 AM
  #6664  
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I like that JC Finnisher body MUCH better than their other 1/8th scale Finnisher bodies , being so narrow the squared off window and roofline look so much better IMO ......The stock EB48 body is still the best looking though .......

Hineckin , The anti-roll bar is essentially a transverse-mounted torsion bar designed to reduce body-roll during turns. It exerts no influence on the suspension when wheels bounce in unison. If vertical movement on one side exceeds the vertical movement on the other, the anti-roll bar exerts an opposing force. Along with its primary function of reducing body-roll, the anti-roll bar will also reduce the combined cornering force and the adhesion limits of the side-by-side tires that are being acted upon. Consequently, the location and stiffness of the bar can be modified to influence the oversteering or understeering characteristics of the vehicle.

A softer front bar:
1. Increases front chassis roll.
2. Increases front grip or traction, while decreasing rear grip or traction.
3. Slower steering response.
4. Increases off-power steering at corner entry.

A stiffer front bar:
1. Decreases front chassis roll.
2. Decreases front grip or traction, while increasing rear grip or traction.
3. Faster steering response.
4. Decreases off-power steering at corner entry.

A softer rear bar:
1. Increases rear chassis roll
2. Increases rear grip or traction, while decreasing front grip or traction.
3. Less on-power steering.

A stiffer rear bar:
1. Decreases rear chassis roll.
2. Decreases rear traction, while increasing front grip or traction.
3. Faster steering response in high speed corners and chicanes.
4. Increases on-power steering.
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Old 05-23-2013 | 11:09 AM
  #6665  
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I'm happy that there's a new body out for this car, now I have no excuse not to get an EB48!
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Old 05-23-2013 | 11:24 AM
  #6666  
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
Can someone please explain the effect of swaybars on rear traction? I've gotten the suspension where I like it for the bumps and jumps. Removed antisquat, max rear toe, and rear camber at 1*. Also removed rear brace. Car is more planted than stock. I purchased all of the swaybars and want to tune with them now. Seems the threads I'm reading have opposing info, so I'm asking you guys. Thanks in advance.
Sway bars effect mostly side traction in corners, it can also effect the way the car handles very bumpy tracks. Go thicker in the rear for less side traction and body roll and lighter for the opposite.
Paul Rush
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Old 05-23-2013 | 02:15 PM
  #6667  
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Originally Posted by bcjoldbq
I read the blog post and says the body has increased clearance in the servo area. That would be a plus in my book as the stock buddy seems to rub slightly in that area with the nut on top of the arm, even with a shorter screw.
With a 2mm shorter screw mine has never rubbed again. It only did it when I first took it to the track, then I fixed it.
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Old 05-23-2013 | 02:15 PM
  #6668  
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Originally Posted by kufman
Wow!! That body is rather fugly! Where are the air inlets? I see a bunch out air outlets. Reminds me of a 1980's haircut where people used to get steps carved into the sides of their hair, lol!
+1...BUT I will probably end up getting one because I love to p*ss away money on my rc's - quote from my fiancee
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Old 05-23-2013 | 02:45 PM
  #6669  
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Originally Posted by Genebaby
With a 2mm shorter screw mine has never rubbed again. It only did it when I first took it to the track, then I fixed it.
Fair enough, I too am using a 14mm screw with the HB arm. My servo must be slightly taller, just enough to make the nut touch the inside of the shell on a right turn. The 'rubbing' is very slight.

Guess I could shim up the front body post and problem solved.

R/C Problem-solving for $300, Alex. ** ding **
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Old 05-23-2013 | 04:42 PM
  #6670  
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Originally Posted by ChrisAttebery
I'm really not a fan of the cab forward bodies, but I'm happy that people will have a choice.

Personally I really like the stock Tekno body. It's unique, functional, and looks great.
100% agree with you chris . Those cab foreward designs turns any buggy into a caterpillar like. nothing like the dex408 body, eb48 stock body comes 2nd.
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Old 05-23-2013 | 04:52 PM
  #6671  
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Originally Posted by bcjoldbq
Fair enough, I too am using a 14mm screw with the HB arm. My servo must be slightly taller, just enough to make the nut touch the inside of the shell on a right turn. The 'rubbing' is very slight.

Guess I could shim up the front body post and problem solved.

R/C Problem-solving for $300, Alex. ** ding **
Depending on your servo height, just decrease the screw until its flush with the nut.

For my Radiopost servo it needed 2mm off the stock screw length.
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Old 05-23-2013 | 06:00 PM
  #6672  
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Originally Posted by streetsports
Added some new goodies...mwahaha 6lbs 6 oz (6.375 lbs)

Do you know how much lighter those turnbuckles are? Also the length. Thanks
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Old 05-23-2013 | 06:26 PM
  #6673  
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Originally Posted by Dont Hack Me
+1...BUT I will probably end up getting one because I love to p*ss away money on my rc's - quote from my fiancee
HAHA, but it keeps me in business! Order two I need one too!
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Old 05-23-2013 | 06:36 PM
  #6674  
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Heavier center diff (15k) did the trick . its much better
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Old 05-23-2013 | 06:41 PM
  #6675  
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Originally Posted by streetsports
Added some new goodies...mwahaha 6lbs 6 oz (6.375 lbs)

lol is that how you run those tires, Just wondering, I was told to turn the 'V"s to the outside
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