ok i think i understand now
i had the gap betweeen the motor can and the chassis chocked with some rubber so as not to allow any movement of the can, but when the chassis flexes it must force the motor away from the mount

so you say leave that gap clear to allow for the chassis flex not to affect the can

and if that fails just go easy on the car hehehe

thanks bro ill give that a go, and i really appreciate your help

Under an unsupported motor. These are not "scuffs", they're actually cut into the chassis.

That's great

ok update on my breaking the tops off the shock shafts issue.

My initial thoughts that it was hitting the webbed bladders and that was breaking them was wrong.

After the last shaft breaking ruining my shock body in the rear i decided to try something. I ordered a set of rear truggy shocks. Shock bodies are identical length to the 2.0 shocks in the rear. The shock shaft is about 3mm (didn't really measure, estimate) longer than the buggy shock shaft.

Reason i tried this method was i could find a complete shock set for the rear on ebay for 45$, which is cheaper than just ordering the shock bodies themselves from amain.

I also ordered a replacement set of buggy 2.0 rear shafts that i put in last night, with the new shock bodies.

With the stock 2.0 shafts and my current droop settings i noticed that the droop screw was stopping the shock from fully extending. However if i pulled the wheel a a certain angle i could make the arm flex enough to bottom out the piston on the inside of the shock body. I see how this could snap the top screws right off the shaft in a crash if the wheel lands a certain way.

I think next piston change i am going to switch to the truggy shock shafts and use 1 old shock o-ring on the shaft at the bottom above the spring cup as a buffer to prevent damage from bottoming out. The extra length in the truggy shaft should be enough to avoid breaking shock shafts at the top in a crash when the arm flexes.

The extra length in the shock shaft shouldn't have any effect on setup since these cars use droop screws instead of internal limiting.

The shaft typically breaks due to a side load on the piston, caused by impact. Not from the shock bottoming out. Damping could change slightly as the piston will not be sitting in the same position in the body.

The last one i am certain was from bottoming out. it put a mark on the bottom tapered portion of the CSI piston i had in there that had the broken top part of the shaft inside it.

you are correct about different position in the body. But not sure that will really be a noticeable effect?

Could bottoming out be the primary cause of most of them? hell, i don't know. But if i continue to break them in the same manner after i prevent the bottoming not sure what i can do.

except wait for solid threaded shock shafts which i have been told are coming

The only one I broke was due to impact. I've since switched to the ti-ni shafts, haven't had any problems. If its breaking from over extension, the only normal force at that end is the spring/arm weight. I don't see that as being enough to cause a consistent problem.

The set i just put on was Ti-ni shafts. So hopefully i wont have any more issues with it then

Ti-Ni is just a coating on the shaft for smoothness, not any stronger.

I recently bought 2.0 kit, I read a few pages this forum, but i didn't find nothing saying that the Hobbywing combo doesn't fit, I bought, I made some modifications to fit the ESC and, the thing that left me more disappointed, the changes that I had to make in the motor to fit.
I leave here my alert. Xerun motors don't fit in the kit.

I run tekin, so i don't know. But there was a discussion of max motor length a couple pages back. And much more about it earlier in the thread. What is the length of that motor?

Your correct it doesn't. If I would have seen you asked somewhere I would have told you. Its a few MM to long. So I stuck a Tekin in mine just fits.

This is my first e-kit, I run nitro for 6 years. I thought that 1/8 motor was as the same as nitro engine, any .21 engine fit in a buggy kit, so I assumed that any 1/8 motor would fit in the buggy. The lenght of the Xerun motor=74mm.

Serpent must advertise the restriction of lenght. IMO

I agree.

Actually, now I saw that there is a little note (almost a footnote, because it's in the middle of a big text) in the serpent.com telling about this.
"The space for the motor allows a maximum motor-length of 70mm, which covers most widely used motors ( except for the truggy / monstertruck motors)."