Are people running internal shock limiters?

My new 811 2.0 should arrive today and just checking setups to build it for a med - med/high traction indoor clay track.

No need for internal limiters. Droop screws will limit the shocks and are MUCH easier to adjust.

Paul C has some great setups on the site for those conditions. Also check J. Kirkwood's the loft setup on Petit.

Edit: Forgot to mention... I had one of the first 2.0 kits and it had the wrong center diff Orings in the kit. That is probably resolved by now, but you should also look back in the thread around May of this year for some talk about the rear diff and shimming and tightness. I don't know of any other issues anyone has had. I enjoyed this build.

You are going to love this car!

Just got mine built , and I got a orion r8 ESC . now my question is what motor should I use . I was thinking a tekin 2200 or there indoor 2050 or 2450 . what do u all run in yours . Or can I run a x812 tenshock ?

Little changes gives you instant feedback. So you'll know right away if you're going in the right or wrong direction. Just make sure you never make more than one change at a time, which applies to any brand rc.

I run a T8 1900 for indoor and out. I actually have to turn down the the power for indoor.

IMHO 1900 for indoor/ 2050 for outdoor. any higher KV is risky as you can't gear low enough to accommodate it. 13/46 is as low as i can get with the stock spur. Maybe with a larger spur you could get it, but that just adds cost.

I run 1900 on a large indoor track 170'x50 and also larger outdoor tracks and never lack power. Just gear up a tooth for outdoor. I run 14/46 or 15/46 indoor and usually 16/46 outdoor. on really small tight indoor 13/46.

hey guys
can anyone help me with why my 811E would be doing this to the motor?
my 811T also did it to a motor but at a lesser rate to the buggy
its not cos its a cheap Turnigy Trackstar, it did it to my Orion R8 also

so from what i gather, the motor is pulling away from the mount, and because the pinion stops it, it just rips the front face off the motor
i cant figure out what would cause the motor to rip itself apart, its firmly mounted, loktighted, and supported from underneath with some cushioning

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oopy5f13r2...105-WA0007.jpg

thanks in advance guys

hmm, the link in the other thread worked...

And same answer.

Wow, what solid object are you hitting and how many times did you hit it?

That motor case looks a little thin, maybe you need some support under the motor if you are jumping it high in the air and landing hard.

Anyone know what all i would need to order to convert my 811 buggy to a truggy? To me it just looks like ill need arms, links, and cvds

you would still need the shocks, tower, chassis, body, wheels. if I am not mistaken, the diffs are different ratio. too many things IMO

Seriously I'm not bashing the hell out of it.
I treat my losi 8ight-t, DEX408 and RC8.2e way worse and they give me no trouble. It seems to be my serpents that do this
And the DEX408 has the same motor config (backward facing)
This happened last night when me and some mates were chasing each other around on asphalt, no jumps, a few hits but nothing big. No head on full speed.
The first time I was doing speed runs on asphalt again. No hits.

that's the main reason some racers like myself don't run the car other than on the track. Which is what they are primarily designed for.

I wonder if you are causing enough chassis flex to slam the motor hard back into the mount and weakening it so it breaks on the big jumps.

Running on asphalt or bashing in general seems to be much higher speeds with exponentially greater inertia when you do hit something than on a track. That's a very general statement, but speed multiplies the force of these "few but nothing big" hits IMO.

no offense, but with you being the only person reporting a problem like this with multiple motors makes me think you should look a little more objectively at how you treat your car. If you like to bash and speed run or whatever, and don't get me wrong, im not going to tell you how to enjoy your car, you might want to look at how the motor is positioned and make sure that something can't jam it when it flexes.... I don't know if something under the motor would help or not, it could in theory make it worse if you care causing it to flex. Perhaps find a 90° sensor wire to put on your motor to give it more room between the can and the steering support it could hit when it flexes.

I don't see anything other than chassis flex on hard hits that could cause that to happen to a motor. The motor clearance on these cars is rather tight for most motors. Alum chassis brace might help also.

Edit: just to clarify my intention is not to be insulting or condescending, it's not meant that way. Just trying to get you to think critically about what could be causing this, and how to fix it.

Thanks for your thoughts DsWright, always eager to learn, im a relative noob, only 6 months in rc, not offended or insulted at all.
i never thought chassis flex could cause this, might try bracing the back of the motor against the steering column
i already have aloy chassis brace and carbon fiber top plate, thats why i am stunned the chassis can still flex enough to rip the can in half

If the can is hitting the steering brace when it flexes, bracing against that might make it worse.

Speeds might be a factor. Doubling your speed actually quadruples your kinetic energy. so a crash at 20mph is actually 4 times the impact of a crash at 10mph.

I don't have my car in front of me, but i suspect you might even be able to put a couple MM spacers under the motor/center diff mount to give you a little more clearance? The motor is nearly resting on the bottom of the chassis in stock configuration. If you try it, just take your time, make sure you space evenly and check to see that it rolls free after you space them.

Not sure what else to do, except use the other cars to bash and the serpent to race?