lulz, nowhere did I say there was anything wrong with that. I'm not knocking, I'm all for the LHS doing that type of stuff. More money for them, which means they're staying open.

I finished my SC10 this week and got it all painted up.

http://img851.imageshack.us/img851/4569/img9686r.jpg

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I used an entire can of Pearl purple, a little over a half can of Metallic black and less than a half can of Indy silver.

I haven't had a chance to drive it yet outside of the living room but this thing feels like a tank compared to my B4.

Its got a Hobbywing SCT Pro, Tekin Pro4 4000kv and Savox 1258tg. I have yet to make a chassis brace but I do have an Ackbar installed and a center ball diff on the way.

Oh I know. I was just taking it as a tease to make conversation. I charge 20 an hour and usually end up charging half of how long it 'really' took; Cause I just want people running again. Not being a saint, I just love what I do.

Pink.... You actually pulled it off well imo. Nice Truck. You need the headlights man. It's crying for eyeballs.

Thanks. Its definately purple tho :blush: I didnt like the RC10.com headlights that came with the kit, Im going to see what the LHS has when I go down there. Hopefully tomorrow.

Hey guys,
Is there a trick to getting those little orings off the outdrives? Im in the middle of putting the ft lightened ones on, and i just broke one of the little bastards. :flaming: Guess ima have to order a diff rebuild kit tomorrow at work.

On a lighter note, Big thanks to coyote for the diff removal guide. It only took me 7 mins to get the rear diff into my hand. :D I knew it wouldnt be an hour job, but i didnt think it would take that little time.

Since we're posting pics...
http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/2736/dscn0137x.jpg

http://img528.imageshack.us/img528/4852/dscn0135j.jpg

The drops aren't centered, and I need to go over the inside (minus the windshield) one more time.

Hi guys
 

I am new to this thread, I have read nearly every page while eagerly awaiting to get my sc10 4x4! Anyways I built mine the day after christmas and the diffs were almost all the way filled.. about 70% of what they should be. The shocks were built awesome. They had the perfect amount of oil, and the screw was tight even though I took it off and put locktight on it. The turnbuckles were off still but the steering linkages seemed to be right on maybe slightly toed out.
I am currently running a
tekin rx8, pro 4 4600kv, align ds610, hazards with barcodes, and swaybars.

Hopefully ill get to the track next week!

What is the roar legal weight for both 4x4 and 2wd sc? I cant find it anywhere! lol thanks

4w is 88oz and you will be way over that.

im 90oz stock with a battery and no body.

Yeah you will close to 97 ready to run.

RINGRINGRINGRINGRING

Bananaphoooooooooooooooooone...
The spurs seem to wear out quickly ITBJHO. Compared to the gas truck (GT2) and electric trucks (B4/T4/.1/SC10) this truck weighs a lot more and is 4wd and puts a lot more stress on the spur, and the spur is the same material. Std pitch (32p/48p/64p) gears have 5 angles on the tooth itself. During your maintenance routine you should inspect all the gears and make sure the angles are all there. When the angles are no longer there (IE only 3 or even 2 angles on the tooth, aka when they're "shark-toothed") they are due (or past due) for replacement.
This is an example of how crappy the truck's materials are. The materials are the only thing holding this truck back on the club level. It's winning in the upper echelons of racing, but that doesn't help us small time guys, since we don't get free arms, chassis, subframes, etc.
Arms, belts, rod ends, spurs, pinions...just wear parts.
Drivetrain is solid in this truck. FT shiny driveshafts are supposedly chrome-plated for hardness, but ThunderbirdJunkie sees little advantage to that compared to the shiny MIP CVD's from back before you were born. Oh, chinese-made parts...please go away. ThunderbirdJunkie would gladly pay more for something made by his countrymen.
Coming from a 2wd background, "pin it to win it" may have a different personal meaning to ThunderbirdJunkie, but with a pin-it-to-win-it attitude is the only time he drove his truck with any competence. Mind you he's only raced 1/10 2w buggy, gas truck, 1/10 truck, and 1/10 2w SCT before the SC10 4x4, so again, his mindset may be different.
Congrats. What's gonna power it? How is the shock setup working for you on the 4wheeler?

Are you guys going to make a version of the battery holder, which allow for adjustment of where the packs sit on the chassis, so we can slide the batteries around to find the best balance? Im thinking a battery tray, which have groves in it so it can be slid both sideways and front to back the max amount of mm? It can either be kept in place by the foam or just tightening down the screws in the position which works best. I have been in my garage the past couple days trying to come up with something scratch built.

Has anyone mounted a Tekin RX8 ESC on the right side rear (spur gear side) of the truck? if so does it put much stress on the belt housing or on the RX8? Since I am going to run a 550 size motor in this truck, I want to put some weight on the opposite side of the motor, by placing the RX8 there. Also I want to leave the Receiver box in the stock position. Anyone have any luck with positioning the RX8 this way?

It fits fine, but you have to cut about 2 mm of the fan case off so it clears the tunnel. WHATEVER YOU DO DONT CUT THE WHOLE THING OFF!! it serves a function other than to hold the fan. It holds the 2 bored's in side the esc firmly inplace so they dont rattle around. Id post a picture of my truck, but i just dropped my damn camera :flaming: It was time though. The old 3.2mp wasn't cutting it anymore.

Ruff night lol

We do already, it's our top deck.