I have a question, maybe I can get a serious answer, not sure how to search for opinions. I need to by lipos for my 4x4, am I wasting time buying stick packs? Should I just go for the saddle pack upgrade?

I ran stick packs most of the summer and did great. I recently just switched to saddle with clutch basket and chassis brace to try a different setup. Try the stick packs and see how you like it. Then go from there.

Thanks man! Think I'm gonna go straight for the chassis brace though, otherwise isn't there belt tension issues? Sorry, didn't read through all of the 800+ pages...

I personally don't think anything is really necessary. I broke a front hub the first day I had it and nothing since then. I got the first batch that came to my hobby shop. I have had to replace a few diff housings because of experimentation (high traction clay, pinned, clutch basket, my driving style not good for the diff) and a ruined belt cuz a tensioner came loose. Experimentation is over and have not had another issue. Maybe a couple complete diffs for quick changes.

I didn't notice a huge problem with out it. It's just something I wanna try now. I ran it from the day it came out till last month with no chassis brace on a stick pack. I'm just trying something different. A guy a race with runs saddle packs and has no chassis brace. And his truck is super fast. Just build the truck and run it and see how it is for you.

I haven't broke anything on mine. I still have the original style front bumper. I did let a buddy drive mine and broke a ball stud b/c he thought it would be funny to hit a kicker jump at our track and see how far he could launch it. Other then that, it's still on the original belt with no chassis brace added. I have recently tried pinning and that was definitely not for me. I do like run the clutch basket b/c now I can actually adjust it. But I'm only running regular and hd pads. I have the brace and saddle packs on it now and I have a center ball diff preordered to try.

I have had the car shorter but still broken more parts humm, maybe my car is faulty? It couldn't possible be the driver could it? Maybe I should Call AE and tell them my car is a dud :)
I've broke rear arm mount, bellcrank (x2), bodymount (x2) and ballstud (x2) Bent a dogbone and stripped a spur and ruined a pinion.

For spares I would get a set of universal drive shafts (just the bones, they can bend easily) and drive shaft rebuild kits, (roll pins always seem to get lost) an extra set of F/R arms, since they warp, some extra screws and an extra rear skid plate/bumper (they wear quick) and some hub bearings (these are the first to go). The tab for all the extras should be under $50.00. The truck is pretty tough and durable otherwise.

So drive-train components like belts, diffs and idlers are not needed?
And are the FT Shiny driveshafts different or just bling?
Thanks!

To search, once you are signed in it is on the right hand corner. The search button doesnt show up when you are not signed in. Say for example you are looking for lipo's type in "lipos" and you will get results.

I ran stick packs for a hole outdoor season with good results it performs well. I am switching to saddles for a different "tunning" option.

If you want upgrades or spares I would HIGHLY suggest getting complete diffs. After a while the diffs turn into crap. The belts teeth might start to chip so a spare belt would be nice to have.

:weird: The key is to let off the throttle when things get out of shape. "Pin it to Win it" driving also runs up the broken parts bill. :cool:

Just found an ebay chop shop for the sc10 4x4.
http://stores.ebay.com/lumidave35/Te...=p4634.c0.m322
Prices don't seem to bad....

Nope not bad, I picked up an entire front and rear transmission with everything for $25 a piece back when the truck came out. I see they are a little more now, but still a good price.

Well, I have seen some idler gears fail, so might be good to add an idler to that list.

The belt should be close to bullet-proof, if used correctly, I doubt it would fail easily.

Idler pulleys, maybe a set as well, but again so long as it is installed correctly and the screws are loctited, they should not fail.

FT shiny bones I heard are harder, but don't know it for a fact. Maybe someone can verify this from AE.

The list that I give you is straight up what I have in my pit box. I have started carrying less stuff lately because my local track's hobby shop has the majority of essentials in stock.

Which brings me to that, do you race somewhere were parts are regularly stocked? Then, your list could possibly be smaller.