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Parts are regularly stocked, just not all of them. The have arms but not dog bones, etc.
I'm not a terrible driver, Iwill have a bad landing or two but I still race in sprotsman so half of the time another truck is on top of mine or rear ending me. |
Also are aluminum hexs needed? I have heard of people stripping them out but from searching it seems to be half say they are needed and half say they arent.
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
(Post 10093236)
:weird: The key is to let off the throttle when things get out of shape. "Pin it to Win it" driving also runs up the broken parts bill. :cool:
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10093292)
Also are aluminum hexs needed? I have heard of people stripping them out but from searching it seems to be half say they are needed and half say they arent.
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Another driving question, often if I am about to crash I can either hit the object head on or with the side of the truck. Which is ideal? (well not to crash in the first place but...)
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10093292)
Also are aluminum hexs needed? I have heard of people stripping them out but from searching it seems to be half say they are needed and half say they arent.
Hitting off-power is the most important aspect. I would not say hitting is better one way or another, the truck has side nerfs and bumpers to protect the trucks from impact. |
Thanks a lot for all your help guys!
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Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10093315)
Another driving question, often if I am about to crash I can either hit the object head on or with the side of the truck. Which is ideal? (well not to crash in the first place but...)
neither .... slow down first , and you will have time to steer around the other truck.... |
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10093323)
Thanks a lot for all your help guys!
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Originally Posted by king revo
(Post 10091852)
how quick your tune changes and your all over answering questions rather than shunning newbs or saying go to pg 141 and read all 500 pages like i did.. the kid referance was to to you without saying names but obviously you knew that,now you fire back like a shining star answering more questions without an attitude than you have in 5 months..i never act like im better than anyone else here thats all you,nice try flipping the script. now maybe this thread can be back to normal now that the king d----e is brought back to earth and people wont be scared to post for help..
Originally Posted by rcboy1
(Post 10092241)
ok, sorry everyone :sweat: so...can i just use these: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...pper-Pad-Set-2 or do i need the garodiscs and/or the clutch basket in order for the truck to work properly?
The HD pads work fine with my 550 and stock slipper. Garo's would be prefered but yeah, you'd be fine with HD pads and Stock slipper.
Originally Posted by Steve737
(Post 10092413)
I really don't want to add fuel to the fire, but oh well.
Craig and Coyote both answered my questions a few pages ago. I asked a question, while proving that I made an attempt of figuring it out on my own. I'm not new to forums, I understand that answering the same 10 questions a day gets old/repetitive/annoying as shit. They even welcomed me and hoped I stuck around, because I showed that I was willing to look before coming to get spoonfed the answers. Just my $.02
Originally Posted by vw addict
(Post 10092417)
thank you, although I didn't ask the question. Just trying to say it would be easier to answer questions with an easy answer rather than telling someone to search. We are all here to help each other!! :nod::nod: I understand the same questions get asked over and over, and it is troubling for the experts on here to see the same things come up again and again. But people are just looking for help.
Originally Posted by Steve737
(Post 10092732)
Not everyone is the same. That's why RTRs have flooded the market. Everyone wants the easy way. They don't want to know how something works, they just want it to work. When something breaks, they just want the cheapest/easiest fix, and will pay a hobby shop $25/hour to do something I've seen 7 year olds fix in the pits.
Originally Posted by Steve737
(Post 10092732)
If they have a question, they just want the answers, without looking themselves.
I don't want to pat myself on the back, but I'm going to, in hopes that future new people do the same. Read the first dozen or so pages in this thread, then skipped to ~500 and read all the "current" talk about the truck. I know not everyone has that kind of patience or time, but come on, at least show a little effort.
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 10092784)
One more (hypothetical) question. Say you had all the needed upgrades (whatever those may be) and you had $100 to buy spare parts with. What spares would you get?
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I just put in my Order:
4x Thunder Power 3300 65C 2S - I can charge those babies in 12 minutes. Oh... Technology! And I got my FT SC10 Today. I know that's not this truck, but I still am stoked to build another kit. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 10092309)
What weight oil are you guys using with the rcshox pistons? Or more specificaly, how many weights +/- did you change when going from stock to rcshox.
I know there are a lot of variables in play, but I figured if enough people responded we could notice some trends. |
I have a FT SC10, it's definitely less forgiving than the 4wd. I'm still learning to dial it in but they are fun. You should build the kit relatively quick, it's pretty easy. Might want to get a spring kit as the springs that come on it are too stiff unless you run on high bite tracks.
Question: I am getting a better radio now (Airtronics) and I've read that you guys adjust the EPA to slow down the servo some. About how much does that really help and where would you set that at? |
Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
(Post 10093534)
I have a FT SC10, it's definitely less forgiving than the 4wd. I'm still learning to dial it in but they are fun. You should build the kit relatively quick, it's pretty easy. Might want to get a spring kit as the springs that come on it are too stiff unless you run on high bite tracks.
Question: I am getting a better radio now (Airtronics) and I've read that you guys adjust the EPA to slow down the servo some. About how much does that really help and where would you set that at? |
Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 10093565)
Rather than adjusting the epa, I would adjust the steering using the dual rate feature so that there is less steerring, so you don't over steer, which is easy to do in this truck.
cool. Oh btw, Marcus has my truck there now. :nod: |
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