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Old 12-06-2011 | 03:48 PM
  #12001  
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Originally Posted by thefatkid
I run at an indoor clay/dirt track with very high bite. The track is very rough on the rear of the chassis, toe block and bumper/skid plate thing. The track has worn the back 1" of the chassis and related componets 1/8" or more. the arm pins are about to show through the toe block. Anyone have a fix for this after I replace the chassis, toe block and bumper so it does not happen again? I was going to switch to the STRC toe block and use large amounts of chassis tape. Have any other thoughs that I have not seen?
I had the same thing happen after runnign for months. I switched to the strc rear pin hoder and it is wearing out much less quickly than the stock rear pin holder, in fact it has kept the rear bimper from wearing at all. It would be nice if someone made a rear skid plate though.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 03:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Kbmoss
SO heres my question.....

Why is it that we have 800 pages on the sc10 4x4 but only about 100 of them have good info. The rest is childish I know more than you, my daddy can beat up your daddy BS!
That's a complete lie. xD There are hundreds of pages of content in this. Don't blur debates about a Truck with "daddy beat ups" - Debates are how we got on the Pedestal.

Some ppl are new and dont know how to search a particular thread, or they dont know a question was asked 20 pages ago that asked the same. All this thread is for is to help each other and make each of us better at the track. Not to prove your smarter than me and what not.
Then plainly, you (generally speaking) need to learn how to use a forum. But to be honest? All of these people who are asking these 20 time offense questions and more? Have post counts over 100-200. No excuse. Period.

I'm sure I just made a few of you upset and angry.... Guess what I dont care. If want to leave me a few comments, then do so, we all will know who the child is that should be put in time out. Heck, if you really want to get into it, I'll give you my phone number and we can see who will win that battle of wits.
I mentioned a while ago I was tired of seeing repeat offenders on questions answered maybe even 2 pages ago. It's a lack of 'giving a shit' for people who have worked so hard to post this info for some of you leeches. (I am a leech too) I made a Diff removal guide. I got a PM from a fella a week ago who searched for it, and found it HIMSELF and wanted to thank me for it.
That is what makes a person 'want' to further assist others. Not "hold my hand, tell me where the ba-bah goes." It's tiring to read a day's of posts and see 4/5 questions answered for a 4th, 5th, 6th time from what is (unless they spammed 20-30 other threads) a "adept" Tech'er.

Craig is cold and calculating, yeah. But he's saying what some of you refuse to say about some of this. He's just going about it a little harsh maybe? The bottom line is There are sticky posts pertaining to this exact problem, from mods who only track foul language. You guys are excusing the cancer that this is too easily.

The search function works. How many people have asked for information that is on the FIRST PAGE? PAGE 1 when they click this thread the first time? Dozens. Because they don't 'care' to look. They don't care if there IS a search function or not. Some of you need to "Get over" The benefit of the doubt on human desire not to be bottle fed.


Debates are healthy. They make people think on many many levels. Getting personal about it shows passion. Getting vulgar about it is the necessary line drawn in a place like this. We have crossed that a couple times. Not 700 pages of it. Please.

Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 12-06-2011 at 04:08 PM.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:03 PM
  #12003  
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Originally Posted by thefatkid
I run at an indoor clay/dirt track with very high bite. The track is very rough on the rear of the chassis, toe block and bumper/skid plate thing. The track has worn the back 1" of the chassis and related componets 1/8" or more. the arm pins are about to show through the toe block. Anyone have a fix for this after I replace the chassis, toe block and bumper so it does not happen again? I was going to switch to the STRC toe block and use large amounts of chassis tape. Have any other thoughs that I have not seen?
Originally Posted by Kbmoss
Its due to your rear suspension being soft and hitting jumps. Either you can deal with it, or work on a new setup to stiffen up the back a bit. You may want to limit shock travel or ride hight to start. You can go to the AL parts but they will scrape just as much, they will only last a bit longer.
Originally Posted by symmetricon
I had the same thing happen after runnign for months. I switched to the strc rear pin hoder and it is wearing out much less quickly than the stock rear pin holder, in fact it has kept the rear bimper from wearing at all. It would be nice if someone made a rear skid plate though.
I think ignoring that is plain old Poor tuning. No offense. Your truck isn't suppose to bottom grind like that. You need to limit the shocks to help your truck not bottom out. You're losing alot of power when you grind out to that extent too. Limit or thicken up.
If I were you, i'd be getting angry at donkey kicking that produces at my tracks. Bottoming out is okay, But dragging your butt along the track is not.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:32 PM
  #12004  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
Crazy, I would expect the pin to break, or the idler gear before the topshaft itelf.
I had the gear strip out on mine and spin freely
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:35 PM
  #12005  
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Wow, just wow.....

Some of you really need to sign off of RC Tech and take a break. The back and forth pissing match is getting really old now. This is a thread where people can come share their knowledge and inform those who are looking at purchasing a Team Associated product, instead, what they come into is a group of grown adults pissing and moaning back and forth and talking major trash. You guys are an embarrassment to the industry right now and are making total asses out of yourselves and the rest of us who actually contribute to this industry. Seriously, unplug if you're that heated or feel the need to start bashing on someone, who ultimately gave you the MOD powers of the SC10 4x4 thread and allowed you to act like babies still attached to mommas teet. Get back on topic, save the trash talk for somewhere else, if I was a noobie and came into this thread, I would be deterred from coming back.

Now get back on topic....
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:40 PM
  #12006  
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Originally Posted by symmetricon
I had the same thing happen after runnign for months. I switched to the strc rear pin hoder and it is wearing out much less quickly than the stock rear pin holder, in fact it has kept the rear bimper from wearing at all. It would be nice if someone made a rear skid plate though.
a better rear skid plate would be nice, also one a little more durable, lol
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:49 PM
  #12007  
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Anyone know of a good shorter slipper spring that will fit? I have the nut flush using a thinner nut, and still wheelies like crazy. I'm using the basket with the Garodisks pinned. I would rather keep the feel of that setup but need it looser after adding the pin.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:49 PM
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this is supposed to be about our hobby and about fun,some light and some serious. i have gained several cool tips and mods that i enjoyed doing to my truck. some of the things you guys do are over the top for me because i don't drive at your level but i enjoy the passion. but what i see here is what i saw at a local track before it shut down. people forgetting that this is supposed to be fun...a hobby
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Old 12-06-2011 | 04:57 PM
  #12009  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Anyone know of a good shorter slipper spring that will fit? I have the nut flush using a thinner nut, and still wheelies like crazy. I'm using the basket with the Garodisks pinned. I would rather keep the feel of that setup but need it looser after adding the pin.
wheelies with the pin mod?? what motor are you running, I can only manage to pull a wheelie if it's a small hump in the track and I stay on the throttle, lol. I'm pinned with the garodiscs so something isn't adding up on your end.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 05:03 PM
  #12010  
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Originally Posted by Mizchief
Anyone know of a good shorter slipper spring that will fit? I have the nut flush using a thinner nut, and still wheelies like crazy. I'm using the basket with the Garodisks pinned. I would rather keep the feel of that setup but need it looser after adding the pin.
I think most people took the basket off when they switched to the pinned setup.

Is there a way to grind down the stock spring?
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Old 12-06-2011 | 05:33 PM
  #12011  
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Originally Posted by Kbmoss
Its due to your rear suspension being soft and hitting jumps. Either you can deal with it, or work on a new setup to stiffen up the back a bit. You may want to limit shock travel or ride hight to start. You can go to the AL parts but they will scrape just as much, they will only last a bit longer.
Originally Posted by CoyoteSlash
I think ignoring that is plain old Poor tuning. No offense. Your truck isn't suppose to bottom grind like that. You need to limit the shocks to help your truck not bottom out. You're losing alot of power when you grind out to that extent too. Limit or thicken up.
If I were you, i'd be getting angry at donkey kicking that produces at my tracks. Bottoming out is okay, But dragging your butt along the track is not.
Stiffer springs or thicker oil is not really a good solution as either has an ill effect on handling. I've already tried both and don't like the feel of the truck. I'd rather not upset the handling of the truck for scraping. Worst case, I'll just replace every 2 months. I could try your ideas about limiting up travel, I was thinking of adding more droop anyways.

I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".

Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one. I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 05:35 PM
  #12012  
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You dont need the basket pinned for sure but if you are using it use blue loctite on the shaft and only screw the nut down as needed, flush will be too much and mr idler gear will fail!
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Old 12-06-2011 | 05:55 PM
  #12013  
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Originally Posted by thefatkid
Stiffer springs or thicker oil is not really a good solution as either has an ill effect on handling. I've already tried both and don't like the feel of the truck. I'd rather not upset the handling of the truck for scraping. Worst case, I'll just replace every 2 months. I could try your ideas about limiting up travel, I was thinking of adding more droop anyways.

I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".

Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one. I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.
You are right on about the tuning. I do not want to change my setup, because it is awesome for me. The chassis only hits on the lip of the big jumps... and I pracice as much as my homework and wife will allow, so do the math. And yes, you can actually see the spots on the jumps where the 1/8 e buggys hit the jump.

If a skid plate were made, I would think it would be out of a molded plastic, like the ones DE racing makes. I just dont think they would be cost effective to make and sell machined skid plates, but i could be wrong.
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Old 12-06-2011 | 06:23 PM
  #12014  
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Originally Posted by thefatkid
Stiffer springs or thicker oil is not really a good solution as either has an ill effect on handling. I've already tried both and don't like the feel of the truck. I'd rather not upset the handling of the truck for scraping. Worst case, I'll just replace every 2 months. I could try your ideas about limiting up travel, I was thinking of adding more droop anyways.

I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".

Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one. I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.

AAAHHHH if it were only that simple
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Old 12-06-2011 | 07:58 PM
  #12015  
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Just installed the Ackbar. Can't wait to try it out this week at the track. Fine piece of work Mantis.


Last edited by jamr1130; 12-06-2011 at 08:00 PM. Reason: picture resize
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