SC10 4x4 Thread
I run at an indoor clay/dirt track with very high bite. The track is very rough on the rear of the chassis, toe block and bumper/skid plate thing. The track has worn the back 1" of the chassis and related componets 1/8" or more. the arm pins are about to show through the toe block. Anyone have a fix for this after I replace the chassis, toe block and bumper so it does not happen again? I was going to switch to the STRC toe block and use large amounts of chassis tape. Have any other thoughs that I have not seen?
Some ppl are new and dont know how to search a particular thread, or they dont know a question was asked 20 pages ago that asked the same. All this thread is for is to help each other and make each of us better at the track. Not to prove your smarter than me and what not.
I'm sure I just made a few of you upset and angry.... Guess what I dont care. If want to leave me a few comments, then do so, we all will know who the child is that should be put in time out. Heck, if you really want to get into it, I'll give you my phone number and we can see who will win that battle of wits.
That is what makes a person 'want' to further assist others. Not "hold my hand, tell me where the ba-bah goes." It's tiring to read a day's of posts and see 4/5 questions answered for a 4th, 5th, 6th time from what is (unless they spammed 20-30 other threads) a "adept" Tech'er.
Craig is cold and calculating, yeah. But he's saying what some of you refuse to say about some of this. He's just going about it a little harsh maybe? The bottom line is There are sticky posts pertaining to this exact problem, from mods who only track foul language. You guys are excusing the cancer that this is too easily.
The search function works. How many people have asked for information that is on the FIRST PAGE? PAGE 1 when they click this thread the first time? Dozens. Because they don't 'care' to look. They don't care if there IS a search function or not. Some of you need to "Get over" The benefit of the doubt on human desire not to be bottle fed.
Debates are healthy. They make people think on many many levels. Getting personal about it shows passion. Getting vulgar about it is the necessary line drawn in a place like this. We have crossed that a couple times. Not 700 pages of it. Please.
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 12-06-2011 at 04:08 PM.
I run at an indoor clay/dirt track with very high bite. The track is very rough on the rear of the chassis, toe block and bumper/skid plate thing. The track has worn the back 1" of the chassis and related componets 1/8" or more. the arm pins are about to show through the toe block. Anyone have a fix for this after I replace the chassis, toe block and bumper so it does not happen again? I was going to switch to the STRC toe block and use large amounts of chassis tape. Have any other thoughs that I have not seen?
Its due to your rear suspension being soft and hitting jumps. Either you can deal with it, or work on a new setup to stiffen up the back a bit. You may want to limit shock travel or ride hight to start. You can go to the AL parts but they will scrape just as much, they will only last a bit longer.
I had the same thing happen after runnign for months. I switched to the strc rear pin hoder and it is wearing out much less quickly than the stock rear pin holder, in fact it has kept the rear bimper from wearing at all. It would be nice if someone made a rear skid plate though.
If I were you, i'd be getting angry at donkey kicking that produces at my tracks. Bottoming out is okay, But dragging your butt along the track is not.
Wow, just wow.....
Some of you really need to sign off of RC Tech and take a break. The back and forth pissing match is getting really old now. This is a thread where people can come share their knowledge and inform those who are looking at purchasing a Team Associated product, instead, what they come into is a group of grown adults pissing and moaning back and forth and talking major trash. You guys are an embarrassment to the industry right now and are making total asses out of yourselves and the rest of us who actually contribute to this industry. Seriously, unplug if you're that heated or feel the need to start bashing on someone, who ultimately gave you the MOD powers of the SC10 4x4 thread and allowed you to act like babies still attached to mommas teet. Get back on topic, save the trash talk for somewhere else, if I was a noobie and came into this thread, I would be deterred from coming back.
Now get back on topic....
Some of you really need to sign off of RC Tech and take a break. The back and forth pissing match is getting really old now. This is a thread where people can come share their knowledge and inform those who are looking at purchasing a Team Associated product, instead, what they come into is a group of grown adults pissing and moaning back and forth and talking major trash. You guys are an embarrassment to the industry right now and are making total asses out of yourselves and the rest of us who actually contribute to this industry. Seriously, unplug if you're that heated or feel the need to start bashing on someone, who ultimately gave you the MOD powers of the SC10 4x4 thread and allowed you to act like babies still attached to mommas teet. Get back on topic, save the trash talk for somewhere else, if I was a noobie and came into this thread, I would be deterred from coming back.
Now get back on topic....
I had the same thing happen after runnign for months. I switched to the strc rear pin hoder and it is wearing out much less quickly than the stock rear pin holder, in fact it has kept the rear bimper from wearing at all. It would be nice if someone made a rear skid plate though.
Anyone know of a good shorter slipper spring that will fit? I have the nut flush using a thinner nut, and still wheelies like crazy. I'm using the basket with the Garodisks pinned. I would rather keep the feel of that setup but need it looser after adding the pin.
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this is supposed to be about our hobby and about fun,some light and some serious. i have gained several cool tips and mods that i enjoyed doing to my truck. some of the things you guys do are over the top for me because i don't drive at your level but i enjoy the passion. but what i see here is what i saw at a local track before it shut down. people forgetting that this is supposed to be fun...a hobby
wheelies with the pin mod?? what motor are you running, I can only manage to pull a wheelie if it's a small hump in the track and I stay on the throttle, lol. I'm pinned with the garodiscs so something isn't adding up on your end.
Is there a way to grind down the stock spring?
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From: Littleton
Its due to your rear suspension being soft and hitting jumps. Either you can deal with it, or work on a new setup to stiffen up the back a bit. You may want to limit shock travel or ride hight to start. You can go to the AL parts but they will scrape just as much, they will only last a bit longer.
I think ignoring that is plain old Poor tuning. No offense. Your truck isn't suppose to bottom grind like that. You need to limit the shocks to help your truck not bottom out. You're losing alot of power when you grind out to that extent too. Limit or thicken up.
If I were you, i'd be getting angry at donkey kicking that produces at my tracks. Bottoming out is okay, But dragging your butt along the track is not.
If I were you, i'd be getting angry at donkey kicking that produces at my tracks. Bottoming out is okay, But dragging your butt along the track is not.
I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".
Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one.
I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine
Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.
Stiffer springs or thicker oil is not really a good solution as either has an ill effect on handling. I've already tried both and don't like the feel of the truck. I'd rather not upset the handling of the truck for scraping. Worst case, I'll just replace every 2 months. I could try your ideas about limiting up travel, I was thinking of adding more droop anyways.
I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".
Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one.
I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine
Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.
I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".
Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one.
I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine
Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.If a skid plate were made, I would think it would be out of a molded plastic, like the ones DE racing makes. I just dont think they would be cost effective to make and sell machined skid plates, but i could be wrong.
Stiffer springs or thicker oil is not really a good solution as either has an ill effect on handling. I've already tried both and don't like the feel of the truck. I'd rather not upset the handling of the truck for scraping. Worst case, I'll just replace every 2 months. I could try your ideas about limiting up travel, I was thinking of adding more droop anyways.
I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".
Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one.
I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine
Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.
I think the only time the chassis is making contact is on the jump face or the transition, more on the face. This is where the truck encounters the most "G" force planting the rear end. As an example, buggies will spark up the face of the jump as they make contact with the "grit".
Symmetricon, I think a skid plate would be good thing for your "sponsor" to try to prototype. One that was the rear pin holder, bumper and a little extra coverage all in one.
I'm sure it would only take a couple of minutes in Solid Works and 10-15 on his CNC Machine
Seriously now, there is not much mounting locations back there so who ever built one would have to be creative.AAAHHHH if it were only that simple



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