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Old 09-24-2017, 03:45 PM
  #36436  
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Hmm... I'm about to drive this thing again tomorrow to test the re-done suspension (turns out that among other things there was way too little oil in the shocks). I've been a bit worried about driveline binding or whatever you call it, as aside from affecting speed it'll also make the electronics run hotter from being overworked. I was just randomly turning the wheels by hand, and I noticed that turning the front wheels meets with a lot more resistance than turning the rear wheels, the latter which turn quite freely. So I suppose the binding is coming from the front.

I wonder if it is the diff, not much else it could be I guess. I had one shim left total in the two diffs after the rebuild because they were too tight otherwise, but I can't recall which diff it was that has the shim left. Now I'm thinking maybe it's the front and that is making it still too stiff and therefore making the whole driveline bind. I guess I gotta take the whole darn front apart once more...
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Old 09-24-2017, 04:47 PM
  #36437  
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Bah, scratch that. I guess I still don't really fully understand how the power transfer and whatnot works in these things. If I take off the belt or even just the clicker parts (but leaving the roller in place), the front turns freely too. I just keep finding it weird that when all put together it drags so much. The Novak motor does add a lot to it, however it is odd that it shouldn't once you're using the motor to drive the driveline, but it the car feels "resistant" even then. I mean yeah, I can still drive it fairly normally, but the difference to my SCTE 3.0 is notable - I mean, the SCTE probably free-rolls farther with the motor on than the SC10 does with it off. I just find it hard to believe that it can't get any better than this with the SC10.

I suppose it doesn't matter that much otherwise, but I'm just slightly worried about heat generated by a stiffer driveline. The SC10 is likely to be my basher car going forward unless I manage to sell it for a reasonable price, along with my nitro monster truck that I'm finally trying to get into a driving condition (bought it together with the SC10 2,5 years ago).
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Old 09-25-2017, 08:21 AM
  #36438  
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More monologue - I guess I don't have to be too worried about heat. I drove through four batteries back to back, and the motor didn't get so hot that I would've had to pull my finger away, even though after the first couple of seconds it did get uncomfortable. The Reventon Pro 1.1 ESC didn't really even get warm (with fan on).

Also timed some laps... it would seem I'm only about two seconds slower per with the SC10 compared to the SCTE - so basically 48-50 seconds per lap on the SCTE, 50-52 on the SC10. As a side note, one of my pet peeves is when people say this or that upgrade/change took this or that amount off lap times, but almost no one says the total lap time... 1 second off from a 15-second lap is quite a bit more than out of a 60-second lap!

Rant aside, what makes the small difference somewhat impressive is that not only does the Novak motor give less torque and top speed than the Hobbywing motor on the SCTE, but the SC10 also had totally worn-out tires, and of course it is generally probably poorly setup and also poorly maintained... in addition to being an older design by like 7 years, of course. Not being able to jump the whole triple at once with the SC10 probably already accounts for half a second of lap time.

Though I do wonder about the top speed, when I was using the Novak ESC it must've been running some serious timing as well as the motor itself, as top speed used to be much more. When I reassembled the rear of the engine after cleaning it I think I set the timing to 0 (setting the timing with it is a bit different than I'm used to), but I didn't really check what it was before. I guess I could add timing to the Reventon as well since it isn't running hot as it is. Though as compared to the SCTE, I'm not running any timing with the HW setup either and it is already a beast.
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Old 09-25-2017, 10:10 AM
  #36439  
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the truck can benefit from turbo timing as the gearing range is kind of limited. When running a 4000kv motor against guys with 4600kvs, I ended up going 1 pinion tooth smaller but increased turbo timing in the higher RPM ranges by 5 degrees. this gave me overall punch and I had the top end I needed on a 200ft straight away.
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Old 09-25-2017, 02:58 PM
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200ft straightaway, man. In its current form, measuring via Google Maps the local track is I believe something like 300 meters (985ft). The main straightaway is around 30 meters. Quite a technical track for sure, so in that sense the slower top speed wasn't so crippling. I'm contemplating which car to take tomorrow, if I take the SC10 I guess I'll try the timing to see if I can get faster times. I think the fastest I recorded today was 49.97, but of course I only timed a fraction of the laps as I have to do it manually with my phone.

By further comparison with my SC10 2WD I've usually gotten laps at around 55-58 seconds, with my B5M maybe 53-56. I really wish there was electricity at the track so I could use the transponder system for more accurate and consistent lap timing, but it's been out since spring. I'm rather worried that at this rate there won't be a track next summer, as it is I've taken to calling it "Tumbleweed Road" (the actual road name's direct translation would be "Crusher Plant's Road") since it is all but abandoned.
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Old 09-27-2017, 11:38 AM
  #36441  
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I've been running an SC10 for many years. Please save me some time if you would by answering this question: Is the new ProSC share any parts with the SC10? Or would I have to find a used SC10 4WD to have that happen?

Our track really likes 4x4's so I've wanted to get one.

Thanks!


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Old 09-27-2017, 12:49 PM
  #36442  
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all that really shares woudl be shocks from what I recall. the ProSC is based on the Prolite or whatever it was called that was more of a basher.
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Old 09-27-2017, 07:42 PM
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Not even the shocks. They may be interchangeable, but they are not the same. Only part that directly crosses over are the wheels and the wheel nuts.
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Old 09-28-2017, 08:04 AM
  #36444  
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Shaved 2 seconds off from the fastest lap today after adding the better wheels and 15 degrees of timing. This old workhorse certainly still has the potential to be a fast car at my level, but of course my SCTE is easier to drive, which helps with consistency. Could be argued that for practise the harder car is the better options, though
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Old 09-29-2017, 08:06 AM
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do you have the RC Shox center diff? that really made hte vehicle a blast to drive.
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Old 09-29-2017, 08:12 AM
  #36446  
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Nah, it's not manufactured anymore so can't really find it. Not that it matters that much after getting the SCTE, it works as is and I'll keep driving it here and there unless I find a good buyer somewhere down the road.
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Old 11-30-2017, 11:41 AM
  #36447  
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I recently converted my truck to 2wd to run parking lots with my buddy. Now I've taken it carpet racing and it was good but needs help. Biggest issue is the rear end unloading under braking and shifting all the weight to the front and causing it to roll.
I think limiters in the rear shocks will be the fix,or do I need stiffer springs in the front too?
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:06 AM
  #36448  
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took the old truck out LAST FRIDAY NIGHT indoor loose track and I must say this is by far the better sct 4x4 built . very easy to turn under your completion and no push at all like the other 2 sct companies. TQ easy and set up is so easy to get this truck around track fast
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Old 01-29-2018, 07:18 AM
  #36449  
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It can certainly still be a good car, though I think now everyone has moved on from them here in terms of racing, but they still find buyers in the used market.

Actually sold mine about a month ago, finally. Kind of a shame, but with the SCTE being the better of the two plus having built it from the ground up instead of having gotten it used... the choice was clear at that point. Although having now been to two indoor races with it, I still think the SCTE 3.0 purchase was perhaps unnecessary to begin with at my level of driving. Mind you, I am/was slightly faster and more consistent with the SCTE, especially in jumps, but even so. I did keep the original SC10 4x4 shocks and spring set, though. I'm actually currently using those in my SCTE for indoor use so I didn't have to mess with my original SCTE shocks setup for outdoor! And they work nicely.

Still hoping AE would release a new 4x4 SCT though. Not that it would make sense to buy it with my SCTE being so new, but more contenders in the class wouldn't be a bad thing! In the meanwhile, still driving the SC10 4x4 around in VRC Pro...
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Old 01-29-2018, 04:12 PM
  #36450  
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Originally Posted by tvih
It can certainly still be a good car, though I think now everyone has moved on from them here in terms of racing, but they still find buyers in the used market.

Actually sold mine about a month ago, finally. Kind of a shame, but with the SCTE being the better of the two plus having built it from the ground up instead of having gotten it used... the choice was clear at that point. Although having now been to two indoor races with it, I still think the SCTE 3.0 purchase was perhaps unnecessary to begin with at my level of driving. Mind you, I am/was slightly faster and more consistent with the SCTE, especially in jumps, but even so. I did keep the original SC10 4x4 shocks and spring set, though. I'm actually currently using those in my SCTE for indoor use so I didn't have to mess with my original SCTE shocks setup for outdoor! And they work nicely.

Still hoping AE would release a new 4x4 SCT though. Not that it would make sense to buy it with my SCTE being so new, but more contenders in the class wouldn't be a bad thing! In the meanwhile, still driving the SC10 4x4 around in VRC Pro...
the truck is still by far better it never breaks . front diff 7000 and rear 3000 . indoor the truck is so good too . there was only 3 true built sct 4x4 trucks Ae and team c and traxxas others are just so heavy
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