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SC10 4x4 Thread

Old 07-12-2017, 12:25 PM
  #36421  
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Hah. After reassembly had some problems, among which somehow tire cambers & toe-ins had gone haywire even though I didn't really touch the turnbuckles. Got that somewhat fixed and went to the track, after a battery and a half the Novak Ballistic motor went anti-ballistic and completely "froze" -> it's resting in pieces now. The Havoc SC Pro ESC blew the capacitor in the process, and since I find it annoying in that it starts doing shutouts after using only half a battery's capacity (so, still plenty voltage left) seriously lowering driving time, I decided on bankruptcy and put a Xerun XR8-SCT + 3660 G2 3600kv combo on order. Kinda funny, having an "obsolete" racing car with the newest electronics Hoping to participate in a race with this as well as my SC10 2wd on the 5th of August - should be "interesting" to race against all the newer cars with more experienced and skilled drivers!
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Old 07-14-2017, 08:17 AM
  #36422  
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tvih, I wish you luck with your race if you do indeed participate. I was a BIG SC10 4x4 fanboy but once the Tekno came out I had to get it. My best advice to you is practice practice practice. The truck does have its advantages on certain tracks (tight technical ones) but if you are on a big 1/8th track with big jumps, you may see yourself getting pushed around by the heavier Tekno's and Losi's which seem to be dominating the 4x4 short course world.
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Old 07-14-2017, 07:14 PM
  #36423  
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Thanks, I'll need it for sure. I've never even driven on any tracks besides the local indoor (since closed) and outdoor tracks, so that'll be the "third" strike against me in addition to outdated car and lack of skill But yeah, I've been trying to practise. I think I've probably driven more this summer than in the preceding time combined since late 2014 when I bought my first car. The SC10 4x4 is fun to drive especially now that the settings are a bit better even if they still need work, but of course I can't compare to any of the other cars since I haven't driven any of those... and the same goes for the 2wd side of things. It's such a shame that AE dropped out of the 4x4 SCT game, though.

Got the new electronics today, sadly my soldering equipment and skills were a letdown as usual and I couldn't get the connectors to stick properly, so I'll have to wait 'til monday for the local RC shop to hopefully solder them for me (though I feel a bit bad about having them do that - even though obviously I'll pay for it - since the electronics weren't bought from them).

I also need a servo cable extender - was supposed to buy it today, but was too late and the store closed - since I now installed the saddle pack cradle which means the Highest DT750 servo's cable is suddenly too short. With the cradle installed the XR8-SCT is quite a squeeze to get to fit, as well! No room left to spare, that's for sure.
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Old 07-20-2017, 07:58 AM
  #36424  
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Well, new electronics are installed... kinda. I think I gotta go back to the side-mounted battery rather than saddle pack bracket after all to get more space for the ESC. The XR8-SCT kinda fits, but the belt cover does kinda press on top of it, plus to get access to the fan pins for programming (as the programming box is attached to the fan pins) I'd have to get another cable extender to use with the fan/box, because the belt cover blocks the fan pins, so I'd have to remove the whole belt system every time I wanted to change settings on the ESC unless I used an extended to get the cable swap point to be somewhere other than on the ESC itself. Bummer I really liked the "new" layout otherwise.

Another problem is that the car is so loooooud again. It was never silent to begin with, but now it's even worse. I can't seem to fix it with spur/pinion meshing, it's loud and whiny no matter how I set the mesh. It was difficult to make it sound reasonable even with the old electronics and old spur gear, but now it seems positively impossible. I don't know why, after all the electronics shouldn't affect the sound the drivetrain makes. Which leaves the spur, but why would the new spur gear (same part number as the old one) cause any more noise, I don't know.

Also gotta get a new pinion. Since the Novak motor was 5000kv and this one is 3600kv, top speed with the current 12t pinion isn't exactly something to write home about based on a quick full-throttle acceleration outside my apartment. I'm thinking of trying a 17t Traxxas pinion, that should hopefully be a bit of a boost.

The race would be in two weeks, but I'm not exactly optimistic I'll get this thing back to any sort of racing shape by then.
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Old 07-20-2017, 11:58 AM
  #36425  
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Well, a bit more reason to be optimistic I guess - with the 48dp 93t stock spur and the 23-tooth pinion that came with the motor, the car sounds... well, as normal as it is likely going to get, I suppose. I've just read many times that 4x4s with 550 or 4-pole motors shred though 48dp spurs, so I guess we'll see how long the damn thing lasts. Can't quite figure out why the 32dp is causing such issues, though.

During my outdoor test I noticed the innermost slipper pad having popped out of its place again (seriously the darn thing just doesn't want to stay where it belongs), and afterward it turned out the front left CVA bone is bent. No wonder the car has been acting out a bit, like during the test it kept veering to the left constantly. Though it's strange, I thought I checked the bones already but apparently didn't notice it. At any rate a visit to the local RC shop beckons once again. Good thing they have one pair in stock... I reckon I'm probably just about the only one still buying parts for this car model there

Which reminds me, I ordered a set of RPM arms for this 4x4 as well as my 2wd. The stock 2wd arms seem quite flimsy, while the stock 4x4 arms do seem quite beefy. I went back and forth whether to buy spare stock 4x4 arms or the RPM, but ended up with the latter in the end. Just not sure if I should install them already or in the event of a breakage. I guess it'd make sense to avoid a breakage in the first place by using the sturdier part.

On the ESC placement issue... well, I noticed that if the rear spur cover is off it is possible though tricky to plug in the program box. But as it is I don't even have tape on bottom of the ESC yet and already it pressed against the belt cover. If I add tape, it'll press even more. Bah.

End of monologue log... for now

Last edited by tvih; 07-20-2017 at 12:09 PM.
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:03 AM
  #36426  
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tvih, I know of some folks that had the ESC placement issue you are talking about with this truck. What some of them do (though not really recommended) is just run the truck with out the belt covers in the middle portion, you will have to clean out the front and rear belt drive pulleys/gears on a regular basis as there is a big chance of pebbles, dirt etc. getting up in there.
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Old 07-21-2017, 09:50 AM
  #36427  
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I ended up switching the ESC and receiver box locations. The receiver box - didn't want to go without the box if possible - is a tight fit under the belt covers too, but the bigger issue was clearance side to side, as the middle divider kinda gets in the way. Just barely fits in there with some force applied to get the box lid on.

Since it now can't really be opened without taking off the belt cover, I used the servo extension cable to get a socket outside the box to connect a transponder onto. I didn't need it for the servo, as with the side switch the Highest DT750 just barely has a long enough cable to reach into the box.

The ESC is now more accessible in turn, allowing the fan/program box connection to be switched with reasonable ease. I shoved the motor cables into various spots to get them out of the way since the motor was now so close.

For clarity here's a pic, also "boasting" the newly installed RPM arms:


I was hoping this would be the "end" of it, but after installing the new CVA bone to replace the bent one during the RPM installation procedure, I noticed the front outdrives don't rotate in a fully concentric manner. I suppose I should replace the outdrives, the "wiggly" rotation can't be good for the dogbones, even if it is very slight.

Also seems the original owner of the car has goofed a bit with the build, as the front right arm didn't have the hat bushings at the outer hinge, so I guess I'll have to buy some of those next week. Surprised there was no extraordinary wear on the original arm despite the missing bushings.
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:24 PM
  #36428  
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hi all
new here & new in general to RC
hoping to find some help in diagnosing a problem

have an sc10 4x4 that i built with my then 10yo son two summers ago as a "daddy camp" for a week. He used it periodically, but it admittedly sat for a good long while. It didn't get any maintenance in this time as it didn't really get used much. This summer he got interested in it again and i've been trying to support the interest but have next to no experience with these things (just the build effort following the manual).

The truck seems to burn through batteries pretty fast (<10mins); I can't remember what it was like the first summer anymore as we just didn't pay too much attention to it. So, this summer, at first we thought the batteries were bad or that our charging protocol was screwy, but a nice guy at a local park lent us a battery he knew to be in good condition and the truck burned through the battery in about 5 mins. So, at this point, I'm guessing that there is a ton of resistance somewhere in the system that is overburdening the battery.

Our current plan is to unbuild & clean the truck following the build manual backwards. But, before we do that, I thought I'd ask here if anyone had any thoughts that might focus our efforts. My loose target of interest in the unbuild is anything in the driveline.

Suggested checks from a few we've talked to locally: poor pinion gear choice, bad ESC, excessively dirty or unlubricated driveline

I haven't scrubbed through this thread yet (36k posts!) but i will start to do that.

i haven't itemized the build here, but, if specific parts are important to this diagnosis, let me know, and i'll post the best i know.

thanks!
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Old 08-19-2017, 01:28 PM
  #36429  
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hi all
new here & new in general to RC
hoping to find some help in diagnosing a problem

have an sc10 4x4 that i built with my then 10yo son two summers ago as a "daddy camp" for a week. He used it periodically, but it admittedly sat for a good long while. It didn't get any maintenance in this time as it didn't really get used much. This summer he got interested in it again and i've been trying to support the interest but have next to no experience with these things (just the build effort following the manual).

The truck seems to burn through batteries pretty fast (<10mins); I can't remember what it was like the first summer anymore as we just didn't pay too much attention to it. So, this summer, at first we thought the batteries were bad or that our charging protocol was screwy, but a nice guy at a local park lent us a battery he knew to be in good condition and the truck burned through the battery in about 5 mins. So, at this point, I'm guessing that there is a ton of resistance somewhere in the system that is overburdening the battery.

Our current plan is to unbuild & clean the truck following the build manual backwards. But, before we do that, I thought I'd ask here if anyone had any thoughts that might focus our efforts. My loose target of interest in the unbuild is anything in the driveline.

Suggested checks from a few we've talked to locally: poor pinion gear choice, bad ESC, excessively dirty or unlubricated driveline

I haven't scrubbed through this thread yet (36k posts!) but i will start to do that.

i haven't itemized the build here, but, if specific parts are important to this diagnosis, let me know, and i'll post the best i know.

thanks!
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Old 09-01-2017, 07:31 PM
  #36430  
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Thumbs up Out drive boots the WORK! Durango ones.

I run an old T-t by Associated but the SC 10 runs the same out drives.I'm just a basher,now,but I don't like taking the tranny out to replace hogged-out out drives at all.
These will work,if you are willing to install them.
Team Durango DEX210V2 2wd buggy TD310258 Drive Shaft Boot Outdrive DEX210 (2) | eBay
The out drives are long and allow for the cross pins to slide along the out drive slots,but the Durango ones are a bit short on the out drive side.
Slide on a short section of 5/16 " heat shrink tubing and then slide the boots on over the top of them. (You need to cut off the small end at the first boot to allow them to stretch over the inboard cross pin).
then,with a zip tie to prevent the boot from falling off,the CV/out drive is SEALED!!!! Use as much great of your choice to fill 'er up!
it REALLY works!
I pulled mine apart after a dusty run and the grease was still the same color.
NO DIRT in there at all.
I use "sliders" from Niftech,but the boots will massively increase out drive life if they are sealed from dirt. I'll bet that Losi out drives can benefit from these boots as well.1/10 scale,guys.
HARD to find and worth the expense,IMO. I bought all the ones that I could find from Ebay sellers.
I cannot post a photo of the ones that i bought. See the link.
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Old 09-06-2017, 08:55 AM
  #36431  
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So I just picked up a FT SC10 4x4 roller and was curious what everyone's thoughts are on what are some good support parts to pick up since I believe it's going to be unlikely that hobby shops will have replacement parts in stock.
  • Front A-arms
  • Rear A-arms
  • Front Shock Tower
  • Rear Shock Tower
  • Front Bumps
  • Rear Bumper
  • Body Mounts

What are some other items I should have with me?
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Old 09-06-2017, 09:06 AM
  #36432  
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Well, I think you listed most of the essentials, although I think the bumpers are pretty unlikely to break - then again it's a pretty solidly built car throughout. One important thing to add would be a drive belt, since if that goes for some reason (especially since it is a used car) in the middle of a race, that's not much fun For the A-arms I went with the RPM ones as you can see above, but the stock ones seem very sturdy too - still, an option to consider, if nothing else.
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Old 09-06-2017, 09:18 AM
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Originally Posted by tvih
Well, I think you listed most of the essentials, although I think the bumpers are pretty unlikely to break - then again it's a pretty solidly built car throughout. One important thing to add would be a drive belt, since if that goes for some reason (especially since it is a used car) in the middle of a race, that's not much fun For the A-arms I went with the RPM ones as you can see above, but the stock ones seem very sturdy too - still, an option to consider, if nothing else.
Thanks, I thought I read somewhere about the bumpers breaking. If that's not the case then I'll remove them.

How about bearing carriers? steering components? etc

I normally don't go with RPM products for racing because they flex too much.
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Old 09-06-2017, 10:42 AM
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Hmm, I haven't come across bumper issues that I can recall... the SC10 2WD does have that with the standard front bumper though, broke one of those myself, but my 4x4 has taken way too many nose landings without issues. However it is a rather cheap part so I suppose it wouldn't hurt having it. The rear bumper seems even less likely to break in any reasonable scenario that I can think of.

However I must admit though that my amount of driving this thing is limited, having gone through maybe 20-25 packs. As such I don't really have first-hand experience about long-term wear aside from the fact that despite the previous driver having used it for quite some time, it is still running the original parts except for the RPM upgrades I did this summer, the shocks (the original shocks are fine, I'm not sure why he "upgraded" to different ones) and a couple of lower shock mount pins (the originals are still usable, albeit somewhat bent).

For steering the only spare part I have is a steering rack (91181), though I bought it more because it was on a discount rather than any other actual reason. There's some tightness in the steering on my car when moving by hand, not really noticeable when driving. Probably just the dirt and maybe the bearings could use some oiling or such, the parts themselves show no other signs of wear or damage. A thorough rebuild and cleaning would probably improve things, but I'm too lazy for that. Still, the fact that I've not broken a single part of the car itself (well, except a spur gear but that was my bad) nor did the original owner from what he told me, it certainly seems to be rather reliable in that regard.

Oh, and as for the RPM arms, I'd be surprised if these really flexed that much, they're so damn solid and beefy. But yeah, the originals should be just fine too anyway - and of course when buying the originals you don't need to either mix between original and RPMs if something breaks, or alternatively buy two sets of RPMs. A great thing about this car is that the arms are symmetrical, so you don't have "right" and "left" arms separately - easier time managing spares this way!
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Old 09-06-2017, 02:54 PM
  #36435  
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Hehe just got myself one of these as well. The thing is a maniac
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