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Old 06-20-2011 | 05:39 AM
  #3451  
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Thank you, that was something I forgot to think about.


Questions of the day:

Is there a chassis protector for this truck yet?

Are other springs available yet?

Anybody got any vids of their trucks racing?
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Old 06-20-2011 | 06:45 AM
  #3452  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
Thank you, that was something I forgot to think about.


Questions of the day:

Is there a chassis protector for this truck yet?

Are other springs available yet?

Anybody got any vids of their trucks racing?

if your asking about the bottom chassis protector there is one made by ae and is around $10. as of right now there are no other spring rates which makes it really annoying to fine tune the suspension but the stock spring rates arent bad but you work with what you got


d
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Old 06-20-2011 | 07:12 AM
  #3453  
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Originally Posted by BulldogSRT
This question / idea is toward the people that have had issues with their diff out drives getting loose and diff housing dissorting. Do you see any marks on your dog-bones where it hits the diff cup under full compression? I am running the bladders in the shocks at the stock length and after only 6 packs thru the truck the dog-bones have marks where it contacts the diff cup slots. I would think this is probably the reason for the play developing in the outdrives. I guess adding some travel limiter under the shock shaft bump stop is needed ..........is that why they included them with the truck??

BulldogSRT
1 limiter is on the shocks from the factory, I will be adding at least 1 more.
I do have marks all the way around the axles from the outside edge of the cup. its very clear now. thanks to whoever said to check that area.

I still plan on calling ae today. just to give them a heads up and hopefully the diffs are a warenty issue. my truck should not be waering out valuble componites for how much I use it (I race everyother weekend, never bash)
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Old 06-20-2011 | 08:04 AM
  #3454  
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Originally Posted by JEFFs SC10
hahah ok I need to buy one of those power drivers? Everyone recommends they ryobi right? Where do you get the bits? Don't I need long ones?

It doesn't sound that bad, I'll do it before this Thurs when I go practice again.
You can't go wrong with a Makita driver. I use the DF010DSE but it is a bit pricey but does a great job. The 10.8 suggested is also very good.

My suggestion would be to get AE's 8-piece hex driver set which will give you the tips for the power driver and a handle for places that don't need or where you would not to use the power driver. Other tip sizes or nut driver tips can be purchased separately.
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Old 06-20-2011 | 08:09 AM
  #3455  
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Bosch PS21-2A. Compact and has more power than you will ever need with a great clutch for small screws.

I'm in need of some new 1/4 drive bits so I will probably pick up the AE set recommended by Rick.
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Old 06-20-2011 | 08:32 AM
  #3456  
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Originally Posted by 250r
What's up with the stock wheels on the rear filling up with dirt? I just glued a brand new set of enduros first trip out.I noticed the tires bulging in the center I pulled one off and it felt twice as heavy as it should have been. Im guessing the front tires ars throwing dirt into th rears??? The holes on the stock wheels seem really too big im thinking ca them closed after installed with tires and make new smaller holes. Im stumped I've never had this happen.with hundreds of tires I've ran. Any ideas is.it the wheels? How does the dirt get in there? I used my reamer and made three holes in the tire tread ran.again seemed like.they were a little lighter. I've got 3 sets.of new tires to.glue all with stock.wheels if its the wheels that's an issue there gone outta here for.sale
the issue is that the vent holes on the ae wheels are huge. they are good for indoor clay but fill up with sand and gravel when driven in the loose stuff. just tape over the holes. you may want poke a small hole to allow for some venting. on page 199 toward the bottom I show how to fix your tires filled with sand. mine had like 40 grams of sand and gravel
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Old 06-20-2011 | 08:35 AM
  #3457  
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I'm not picking on AE here. This is just to show you that you need to seal up the holes in the stock wheels if you are running on any type of loose dirt. Not just the large holes but the small ones as well. I knew there would be some dirt in them but not 23g worth. (average for the 4 of them after one race night)
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-ae-wheels-no-bueno.jpg  

Last edited by Racecrafter; 06-20-2011 at 09:05 AM.
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Old 06-20-2011 | 09:15 AM
  #3458  
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Tried to read up on nose-diving on the jumps.....most recommendations are talking about brake settings (both regular brake and drag brake).

My brakes are set at 80% and my drag brake is set at 0%.

When I take a run at the jumps, and my truck is near full speed (seems to be around 75% of top speed and higher) the truck jumps BEAUTIFULLY. Smooth, nice trajectory, and when I get the speed right, it just glides down onto the landing ramp.

Where my problem is, is if I don't have enough speed coming into the jump, the truck nosedives horribly. So bad that even on the smaller jumps, it will dig the bumper into the ground, often flipping over.

If my truck is moving at about 50% speed, it doesn't matter if I let off the throttle entirely at the top of the jump, drop my trigger to 50% so that it's still pushing, but not hard, or hammer the trigger to 100%, the truck still nosedives.

Could this be an issue with suspension? Shock oil too thick in the front or the back? I went to running 30 in the back and 40 up front to help with the body roll, and the truck now corners nicely. (I'm not good enough to build my own anti-roll bars yet)

Last edited by BlueGlowBoy; 06-20-2011 at 09:44 AM.
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Old 06-20-2011 | 09:18 AM
  #3459  
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Racecrafter


Suggesting you punch vent holes on the outside of the tire, use 4 small holes on Sc tires.

The close cell foam does not breath like regular foam and needs the extra holes on the outside of tire for best performance...
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Old 06-20-2011 | 09:53 AM
  #3460  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
The close cell foam does not breath like regular foam and needs the extra holes on the outside of tire for best performance...
Plus it will help keep the dirt out too, right? Centrifugal force will help fling the loose stuff out of the tire?
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Old 06-20-2011 | 09:58 AM
  #3461  
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Blue

O-sure, most of that dust in that tire would of vented ...

Check out any of your better 1/8th rides next time , you will find the same vent holes I suggested on those rides.....
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Old 06-20-2011 | 10:00 AM
  #3462  
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
Racecrafter


Suggesting you punch vent holes on the outside of the tire, use 4 small holes on Sc tires.

The close cell foam does not breath like regular foam and needs the extra holes on the outside of tire for best performance...
my boy geo is back in action
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Old 06-20-2011 | 10:03 AM
  #3463  
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Originally Posted by northkona
I reckon you are spot on with this Bulldog . I can only imagine the latest trick of winding your shock ends out 3 turns is going to make it worse . I know T-bird Junkie had a fix by grinding a bit of the material out of the inside of the cup to avoid contact . I'll be trying this when I pull my diffs out next . It's just a matter of finding a grinding stone with the correct taper.
ThunderbirdJunkie cannot take credit where it is not due...he has not taken a dremel to his 4x4 at all.

At least not that he remembers. So it's still entirely possible, but he doubts it
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Old 06-20-2011 | 10:15 AM
  #3464  
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Originally Posted by kamahaobuilt13
my boy geo is back in action
My 4x4 will be back from
Milwaukee , so it will back owning soon .

Ae driver Mike Schoetler got 6th with my ride this week end !!

Major big racers & all in that heat ....



Scott Brown & Mike S worked very hard over the last two weeks preparing the set-up .....

Will try to share with everyone what we have learned...
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Old 06-20-2011 | 10:49 AM
  #3465  
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re: nosediving off jumps

I raised my rear ride height and it jumps level now
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