SC10 4x4 Thread
#3466
I was running 28mm up front and I think 23 in the rear. now that I'm checking setups, it seems that most are either same front and rear, or rear is a little higher....
Will let you know if this worked for me on Wednesday!
#3467
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Joined: Nov 2007
Posts: 836
From: Calgary, AB CANADA
Hey all...I'm loving my SC10 4x4 but, like most of you, I'm trying to fine-tune my setup so the truck is a little more stable and "chuckable" in the corners. Right now I have to tip-toe into corners, although she pulls like a freight train out of the corners!
I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner?
Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track?
Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts!
Cheers,
Mike
I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner?
Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track?
Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts!
Cheers,
Mike
#3468
Hey all...I'm loving my SC10 4x4 but, like most of you, I'm trying to fine-tune my setup so the truck is a little more stable and "chuckable" in the corners. Right now I have to tip-toe into corners, although she pulls like a freight train out of the corners!
I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner?
Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track?
Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts!
Cheers,
Mike
I'm pretty new to offroad setup but I'm wondering about folks unscrewing the rear shock eyelets to get more droop out of the rear. Wouldn't that allow more weight transfer forward which would make the rear end lighter and even more prone to stepping out while diving into a corner?
Also, are the swaybars only required/effective on relatively smooth, high traction tracks or would I see a benefit with swaybars on my fairly rough, dusty, low to medium traction track?
Thanks in advance for helping me understand these tuning concepts!
Cheers,
Mike
Swaybars helped me out on a rough loose track and a high grip blue grooved track. Puck em for sure.
#3469
FWIW on my truck I had the shock piston come loose and all I had was 40wt shock oil so I used it for the time being . I think im gonna leave it in there because it sure has helped the truck jump better and resist the dreaded nose dive . lucky I guess ..now if i could stumble on some sway bars that should have came with it .. hahaha
#3473
just stiffen up the rear suspension to take it away, more ride height, heavier shock oil, or a stiffer spring.
However it is possible for the truck to fly nose down on certain jumps even if the suspension is setup perfect. If the front wheels leave the jump before the rear had completed its compression/preload then you can bet that bad boy is going nose down.
#3474
I used my display tires at an event where I needed them not expecting too much dirt ingestion. That is why I posted this. These were ruined in one race night. I just don't want others to run into the same problem with stock wheels.
#3475
90% of the time I hear someone say their truck is flying nose down its because the tail of the chassis is bottoming out before it leaves the jump.
just stiffen up the rear suspension to take it away, more ride height, heavier shock oil, or a stiffer spring.
However it is possible for the truck to fly nose down on certain jumps even if the suspension is setup perfect. If the front wheels leave the jump before the rear had completed its compression/preload then you can bet that bad boy is going nose down.
just stiffen up the rear suspension to take it away, more ride height, heavier shock oil, or a stiffer spring.
However it is possible for the truck to fly nose down on certain jumps even if the suspension is setup perfect. If the front wheels leave the jump before the rear had completed its compression/preload then you can bet that bad boy is going nose down.
I'm already running 30wt factory team in the rear, so once I get the ride height sorted out, I should be golden.
Hey CJ and the AE team: When can we expect some tuning springs?
#3476
#3477
Ummm yeah. These tires have holes in them.
I used my display tires at an event where I needed them not expecting too much dirt ingestion. That is why I posted this. These were ruined in one race night. I just don't want others to run into the same problem with stock wheels.
I used my display tires at an event where I needed them not expecting too much dirt ingestion. That is why I posted this. These were ruined in one race night. I just don't want others to run into the same problem with stock wheels.

We use a leather hole punch , for belts, ect.
Its a very useful tool & you will become very popular in the pits when everyone else borrows it ...
Last edited by Wild Cherry; 06-20-2011 at 07:49 PM.
#3479
#3480



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