Nice, Just ordered some. No blue huh?

re: traction rolling.

If you move your top shock mount on the rear to the outer hole (stand them upright) it will make it stiffer into the corners.

and probably putting some spaces under the inner ballstud on the rear would work also.

try the shock one out. it worked for me, Using 30w all round.

By moving the shocks more straight up and down, you decrease the resistance and make the suspension softer. If you did this and noticed it was stiffer, it might have been from increasing spring pressure. Did you readjust your ride height after moving them?
Before making swaybars, I laid the rear shocks down and it reduced the rear washout. I run on a large track with large fast sweeping turns and swaybars are a must. On a tight smaller track I can run with out the bars.

How do you know how many washers/spacers to put on the ballstuds?

I understand it will change the roll center.

How many washers would I need for a loamy / bumpy surface?

Anyone have pics of the washers on their ride? I'm a visual person.

"Stock" positions front and rear on the inners and outer front. Inner on the rear.

The thing to remember and what you're trying to accomplish is reducing body roll. Lowering the roll center helps this along.

Just start adding them and drive. When your truck starts behaving itself, you're there.

I thought the sway bars were going to be the answer, but adding them was only part of the solution (the solution that I"m still working on. Lord help me when I run this thing somewhere else...).

not ruined.......check out page 199 of this thread toward the bottom......

Come on wheres that kinwald set-up sheet.

Ok cool, I have a bunch of spacers and washers that I bought so I'll try it out.

So do you use them for both the front and rear ballstuds?

Great post on your behalf

No and you are right they are not ruined. But there is a vast majority of guys out there that don't do well with gluing clean tires let alone trying to clean them out and re-glue them.

My post was merely a surprise to me that there was that much dirt in them after only 15 minutes of race time on a wet track. Mostly due to the two 6mm holes in the rim as well as the glue holes in the inner face of the wheel. When Mark (Pavidis) created those holes in the first place for the AKA wheels our initial testing showed way too much dust intruding into the tire. So he had the mold updated to skin those holes over for those that would not use them or know what they were for. They are still there on the AKA wheels you just need to slightly poke them open to use them.

yes I was quite surprised as well. I run holes in the outside of tire but dirt seemed to be trapped between wheel and foam. I heard rumors of aka coming out with a foam with holes in the middle to allow centrifigal force to sling it out. can anyone confirm this?

Would the scrt10 swaybars work in this truck?

Are the front wheels supposed to spin as freely as the rear? Mine spin almost a complete turn and then stick a little. The diff is working for both front and rear, just a little stiffer up front.

Look at the 3 screws tht hold the plastic shroud around clicker if its screwed in too much it will rub on the clicker and you'll have some binding issues, I've helped out many with their sc10's at wcrc all the way to sdrc and I've built about 8 of these trucks and each has it's own different flaws. Just be sure that you double check the screws and you'll easily find small simple stuff that can cause an issue. Hope this helps


D

Thanks I will check it out when I get home tonight. It almost feels as if the motor is holding it back slightly but then it frees back up and spins for another turn.