5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
06-19-2011 | 08:32 PM
#3436
3 screws for the bumper
2 screws for the belt cover
1 screw for the blelt tensioner
1 nut for the clicker
remove belt
2 for shocks
2 ballstud screws
4 screws for shock tower
3 screws for the front belt case
2 screws from the bottom to the diff case
the diff is out!
lol, sounds like alot but it is easy with driver and some good bits.
06-19-2011 | 08:35 PM
#3437
hahah ok I need to buy one of those power drivers? Everyone recommends they ryobi right? Where do you get the bits? Don't I need long ones?
It doesn't sound that bad, I'll do it before this Thurs when I go practice again.
It doesn't sound that bad, I'll do it before this Thurs when I go practice again.
06-19-2011 | 08:39 PM
#3438
I got Dremel li-ion electric driver from a pawn shop for dirt cheap, and I use AE FT driver bits, which I got from amain for around 30$. Ill never go back to wrenching by hand
Actually when taking stuff apart, I use my panasonic li-ion brushless impact driver, it takes a screw out in 1/2 a sec. LOL But not when putting stuff together, it has way too mmuch power. It could take lug nuts off a car.
Then I use the dremel driver to pice things back together.
Actually when taking stuff apart, I use my panasonic li-ion brushless impact driver, it takes a screw out in 1/2 a sec. LOL But not when putting stuff together, it has way too mmuch power. It could take lug nuts off a car.
Then I use the dremel driver to pice things back together.
06-19-2011 | 08:59 PM
#3440
Tech Adept
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 168
Using the trust spacer that came with the kit. I shimed at the slipper plate under the spring. If you try to compress the spring you will notice that it doesn't compress all the way cause the spring retainer washer bottoms out on the shaft. By shimming at the slipper plate it moves the assembly away and the spring can be fully compressed. I used the biggest shim I could get in there while still having space on the plate for the spring to sit in so it didn't move around. The guy I raced with with same truck only reshimed the trust spacer like the guide tells you to and was having trouble glazing slipper pads cause of not being able to get it tight enough still. It's probably a combination of both but I know I'm not glazing pads anymore and it's brought my motor temps down a bit. Will be looking into trust spacer next.
So basically, the xtra washer goes between the spring and the Outer slipper HUB? I read ur post where u said this works, a page or so back. I just wasn't sure what the spring retainer washer is.?. What size washer, whatever works?
I thought we were suppose to put a washer on the outside of the thrust spacer?? I just wana make sure I do the right thing. I will be doing a 1st test run Monday night to know for sure if I need this.
Also,
Is it correct that the HT slipper pad only goes on the outside?? U have to stay with the stock slipper pads on the inside?
I have on order, the vented V2 slipper hub & HT slipper pads.
06-19-2011 | 10:47 PM
#3441
I am going to try this setup:
5k rear diff, 7 or 10k front diff.
Losi 8ight front/rear sways
16/62 gearing with mmp/sc4x (will trying diff. gearing if nec.)
Barcodes or suburbs all around (I run on hard packed clay track)
30 or 32.5w rear shocks, 35w front
And mess around with ride height after a few runs on the track.....
I hope to have my sc10 pretty much dialed before the big race the end of july at my local track.....
5k rear diff, 7 or 10k front diff.
Losi 8ight front/rear sways
16/62 gearing with mmp/sc4x (will trying diff. gearing if nec.)
Barcodes or suburbs all around (I run on hard packed clay track)
30 or 32.5w rear shocks, 35w front
And mess around with ride height after a few runs on the track.....
I hope to have my sc10 pretty much dialed before the big race the end of july at my local track.....
06-19-2011 | 11:31 PM
#3444
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 70
From: SoCal
This question / idea is toward the people that have had issues with their diff out drives getting loose and diff housing dissorting. Do you see any marks on your dog-bones where it hits the diff cup under full compression? I am running the bladders in the shocks at the stock length and after only 6 packs thru the truck the dog-bones have marks where it contacts the diff cup slots. I would think this is probably the reason for the play developing in the outdrives. I guess adding some travel limiter under the shock shaft bump stop is needed 
..........is that why they included them with the truck??
BulldogSRT
..........is that why they included them with the truck??BulldogSRT
06-19-2011 | 11:36 PM
#3445
Tech Initiate
Joined: Jan 2011
Posts: 20
white sc10 with babyblue front= peter wirthner 6th or so
in the 4wd a main hupo drives his normal design! ;-)
06-20-2011 | 12:33 AM
#3446
smaller pinion means the opposite.
think about it. if you have a 62 tooth spur and a 11t pinion, for one revolution of the spur, the motor needs to spin 5.6 times.
with a 13t pinion, the motor needs to spin 4.7.
This puts more initial load on the motor as it is harder to spin, thus in turn creates more heat.
For a general concensus, smaller pinion means less heat, and more acceleration. although if you go too small, your motor will reach top rpm before you get a decent speed.
06-20-2011 | 02:05 AM
#3447
This question / idea is toward the people that have had issues with their diff out drives getting loose and diff housing dissorting. Do you see any marks on your dog-bones where it hits the diff cup under full compression? I am running the bladders in the shocks at the stock length and after only 6 packs thru the truck the dog-bones have marks where it contacts the diff cup slots. I would think this is probably the reason for the play developing in the outdrives. I guess adding some travel limiter under the shock shaft bump stop is needed ..........is that why they included them with the truck??
BulldogSRT
..........is that why they included them with the truck??BulldogSRT
06-20-2011 | 02:35 AM
#3448
Tech Apprentice
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Apr 2010
Posts: 70
From: SoCal
I saw that post and it was the reason why I even looked that close at the dogbones. The problem is on my truck the contact is from the end of the diff cup, right at the corners of the drive pin slot. This seems to show either the cups are too long or there is too much up travel. The angles still could be off but at the moment I only have contact marks at the corners. I wonder if it's a random problem (camber link position / camber setting) or an issue that will cause some durability problems later?
BulldogSRT
BulldogSRT
06-20-2011 | 03:32 AM
#3449
just checked front and rear drive cups and the contact spot is not identical on each dogbone but it appears to be the edge of the taper inside the cup . Screwing your shock ends down a few turns should effectively remove this problem (as would adding extra bump stops ) as the problem is only on full compression not on extension as I first thought . I would just worry about durability of your shocks thats all. Maybe just a good dose of thread lock?
06-20-2011 | 04:38 AM
#3450
