SC10 4x4 Thread
#1936
Again, anybody have feedback?? I have run into problems with my sc10 4wd...Mostly bc of user error, I think for running the truck without the two advised washers that go on the slipper assembly..I probably should have waited to put them on..Did you guys have the extra washers/shims that were recomended on this thread included in there kits??In running it, I think I destroyed my slipper thrust bearing due to the slipper thrust spacer not being machined right as noted b/f.....Well, i ran it without the spacers and needed to keep on tightening the slipper ( that everone says is the symptom of the mismanufactured part) and think i caused the slipper pads to burn out and destroy the slipper thrust bearing..The tranny is not binding as i free rolled it nicely..It also caused my 19t pulley to damage slightly..It's now a paper weight and feel bummed about it
..I should have waited for the washers/spacers/shims/whatever you want to call them..

..I should have waited for the washers/spacers/shims/whatever you want to call them..

Ill post the measurements in a bit.
#1938
Here you go Marquee,

and the washer

ID of 6.02mm OD 12.18mm 1mm thick
If your slipper thrust spacer is thinner, than I would suggest finding some 6mmX1mm think washers and try adding them to the outside of the slipper thrust washer.
Hope this helps
and the washer
ID of 6.02mm OD 12.18mm 1mm thick
If your slipper thrust spacer is thinner, than I would suggest finding some 6mmX1mm think washers and try adding them to the outside of the slipper thrust washer.
Hope this helps
#1939
The problem is the shocks are sticking because of the crappy orings AE is
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.
The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.
This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.
Hope this helps you & others"
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.
The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.
This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.
Hope this helps you & others"
So, is there any concensus on the official setups out there as which one other than the stock manual setup is the best starting point?
#1941
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 15,743
From: RIP 'Chopper', 4/18/13 miss you bud:(
The front and rear body mount brackets (manual pages 14 &15) are the exact same width and location as as the mounts for 2wd and 4x4 Slash which is fantastic since many of us have bodies already drilled for Slash we would like to run on the SC10 4x4 too. Thanks AE! However, the posts themselves have an odd 1/2 inch 'cobra head' offset, which pushes the Slash body either a half inch too far forward or rearward depending on which direction you install the offset. Straight posts would be perfect and all your old Slash bodies will drop right on without having to drill any new holes. I sure would like to slap whoever spoiled perfection by making the silly offset posts, lol. Does anyone know of any straight square body posts from another vehicle that would slip into the square hole of these body mount brackets?


slap slap
#1942
Just wondering why everyone wants to know what different wheel will fit the truck? Is there something wrong with the stock wheels? Is there a problem mounting different manufacturers tires to the wheel? Just curious because I am going to load up on a variety of Proline tires and if there is no problem with the stock wheels, Associated's stock wheels are what I will buy instead of having trouble fitting other wheels.
#1943
I like the stocks better than the protrack. only thing wrong with the stock wheels may be the availability being a new truck. I have a set of protrack and the work, but do have a small wobble. mods to help that are somewere in this thread.
#1944
The problem is the shocks are sticking because of the crappy orings AE is
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.
The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.
This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.
Hope this helps you & others"
trying to run in the shock cartridge, plus some of the cartridges the holes
are to small or not round in shape.
The fix I found was to make sure the holes are round and the right size by
drilling or exacto knife. Then replace the bottom oring with an Ofna 1/8th
shock oring and replace the top oring with an SC10 2wd oring packing both
with RED Mobile 1 synthetic grease.
This makes shocks smooth and free in movement and they don't leak.
Hope this helps you & others"
I would advise against using the Mobil 1 in the shocks. If any of it mixes with the silicone fluid in the main body it will create a frothy strawberry jam. The two just don't play well together.
#1945
#1946
Tech Rookie
Joined: May 2011
Posts: 3
From: Columbus, Ohio
I've been doing my homework on the body mounts and the best that I can find are from the SC8, #89426. The posts are square on three sides and rounded on one side, shave it square.
Like it or not, Traxxas Invented the short course class twice with 2wd & 4x4, In doing so they set a standard. There are more than a hundred bodies available for it. there is no performance gained from moving a body hole 1/2 inch!
For me the fact that the SC10 4x4 works with my existing collection of Protrac wheels/tires, batteries, hv motor & mmp esc makes this truck a free upgrade when I sell off last seasons truck. Now the bodies can fit right on it too without punching a bunch of new holes. Heck, they had me at metric hardware. I love sharing as many parts and tools amongst as many of my RC's as possible.
Like it or not, Traxxas Invented the short course class twice with 2wd & 4x4, In doing so they set a standard. There are more than a hundred bodies available for it. there is no performance gained from moving a body hole 1/2 inch!
For me the fact that the SC10 4x4 works with my existing collection of Protrac wheels/tires, batteries, hv motor & mmp esc makes this truck a free upgrade when I sell off last seasons truck. Now the bodies can fit right on it too without punching a bunch of new holes. Heck, they had me at metric hardware. I love sharing as many parts and tools amongst as many of my RC's as possible.
#1947
Just wondering why everyone wants to know what different wheel will fit the truck? Is there something wrong with the stock wheels? Is there a problem mounting different manufacturers tires to the wheel? Just curious because I am going to load up on a variety of Proline tires and if there is no problem with the stock wheels, Associated's stock wheels are what I will buy instead of having trouble fitting other wheels.
You can find them here in various colors.
#1948
Sticking with the Factory X rings , no leaks,no problems & smooth too...
Remember !!!
Green Slime those rings , not Motor oil guys ....
#1949
Thanks for this post.
My thrust spacer is 2.69 and my washer is .88mm which leaves me slipping all the way even with high torque pads.
#1950
I like the DE Racing scte wheels, high quality molds, but the lack of reinforcement (for clearance on the SCTE) makes for a flimsy wheel, Losi wheel included.
I have heard that DE will make a dedicated SC10 wheel, time will tell whether they add some ribs or not.



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