Some people are getting good performance with a stick pack. The key that I will be trying to accomplish is to get as close to 50/50 as I can. The saddle packs can get you there much easier. If you run the 550 motor the balance is not bad but most have added some weight to the front left corner.

BTW...I just built my SC10 4x4 last night with the following upgrades:

1) Swaybars
2) FT Wheel adapters
3) RPM front and rear arms
4) RCShox Garolite slipper pads

I will be testing either tonight or for sure Saturday morning. I am so looking forward to this!!!

you need the slipper basket

I know that the basket makes some difference. I may just wait for the AE design. I will know more once I drive the truck for sure. I can do a lot of control tuning with the Novak Kinetic ESC.

No. What you lose is the ability to use the slipper to bias torque, which turned out to not be so hot. As a result, IMO, you should use the same pads across the slipper when you run the pinned setup, no matter if you are using 2 or 3 or 4, or a basket, or garodiscs. I'm fairly certain all of them will work, but they need to be the same when using the pin.

I think it depends on the user, how much power you are using, track conditions, landing on power, doing TJ Hooker dogleg turns self turnmarshaling yourself, ect. My intuition is the failures people are having is because they are shock loading the drive line and busting off one tooth from the softest part (which is the idler). The problem with losing one tooth on the idler is all of the rest of them are going to come off real quick. That said...

The stock stuff may work if you are running 540 motors, on a dry slick track where you have trouble putting power down, if you are super smooth on the throttle. If you nuke an idler gear, you might want to reconsider.

The MTK basket will work fine, but I recommend using the same pad in all positions so they all have similar slip characteristics. The Mantis garodisc option is likely fine too (using two or three) but I don't have any experience with them.

I set my slipper so that when I hold down the two back tires on carpet and punch it, it will lift the front up about 4". I then verify the adjustment is okay by doing drag race style launches on the carpet I have laid down in my garage (if it's too loose you'll know real quick on carpet), and then I repeat the launches on my concrete driveway to make sure it has some slip on it (concrete being a low bite surface). At the track, I never touch it.

what do you guys think of the Tekin SC4X 6.5 motor? good for this truck? let me know.. i currently running an Orion 6.5 540 motor..

sc4x 6.5 = 3,400kv

6.5 540 = ~6500kv

if you want a sc4x go for the 4.5(4800kv) it is a great motor.

So, it will be slower than my 540? i just cant get the temps down on my 540.. friend has a brand new 6.5, he got in a truck deal.. and he offered me a good price on it.. should i steer clear?

I agree, I absolutely love my 4.5. All the power and speed one could ever want.

yes stay away from the 6.5.

Unless your track is 70x40' or smaller a 6.5 will probably fall short of your horsepower requirements unless you can run 3s.

The sc4x are awesome motors. I run a 5.5 and have plenty
Of power.

You can run a 540 2pole motor in this truck but you must have a fan blowing on the motor. Yeahracing makes a 30mm fan that is the best I have tested for keeping things cool. Temps are not an issue with a fan.

Yea, I also run a fan even though I am running a 550 can. The cooler the motor the better it performs and will last.

I am finishing the build on my truck and soldered the wires from esc to motor late last night. Today when I went to mount them the wires are not quite long enough to mount the esc with terminal in towards battery. Is it ok to mount with terminals on the other side towards outside of truck.
Thanks,

i know a lot of the AE team drivers no talk of a release date as of yet . i used to run the novak havoc pro sc and the 550 4.5 system . i changed to the tekin RX8 and the pro4 4000 540 and love it i dial the power back it rips