Don't believe it ,Tekin will keep those Vipers in check....

Perfect, kind of like this pic.

Maybe some setup help from you guys if you would...

I can't seem to drive my 4x4 as hard as the others that I am racing. When I do, it's really loose in if I have to use the brakes. In fact, it usually spins out if I try to stuff it in the corner, and power out. I was running 70% brake, but then tried it with 40%, and it seemed to help...only problem is when I try to get back on the throttle, truck seems to push and I have to almost wait till I get to the straight to apply full power. I had the truck handling pretty good for a while, but the loose in just came back this past weekend. The push on power off the corner has always been a problem for me. Any ideas??

My setup

-Stock shocks with stock springs (blue front, yellow back). Stock pistons
-30w losi oil in front, 25w in back. Had 35 and 30 in the beginning.
-Blue sway bars front and rear.
-Pinned shaft with standard slipper. I have the basket, but not on yet.
-8.5 540 Novak motor, which on the small track, seems like enough, I couldn't give it any more anyway without spinning out.
-.040 spacers in front and rear camber links on shock towers.
-Suburb 2.0 tires on Proline wheels.
-Track is indoor, with wood jumps, with several 180's and a S turn.

Not sure if any of this helps, just looking for some ideas right now. I have tried several of the setups on rc10, but they always seem to be the same result, Loose in, tight on power.

Thanks for any help, I'm enjoying this thread, and have learned a lot from it.

First question is, do you have the front clicker locked? 19 or 20T clicker in front? If it's a new problem could be something related to wear and tear, warped A-arms, etc. Would be really helpful to see your whole setup (camber link locations, how many ballstud shims, tire camber/toe, etc.). So many different things to look at. Find one of the SC10's that handles the way you want yours to and take a look at it.

Yeah, but he'll still be fast whether his car is actually working or not. Next time we're all around, we'll throw one of his cars on my setup stand. Now, THAT'S hilarious! You'll be scratching your head wondering how he can be that fast.

Rethink that once you get whooped on by a pro4!

Sorry, I knew I would forget some setup stuff. Here's the rest.

20t in front, locked down.
camber links are outside hole for all 4 on the shock tower, outside on rear hubs.
.040 shim on bottom of ball studs at the shock tower.
-1 camber in front, -2 in back. Toe is straight up in front, 3/2 in rear.
Saddle packs mounted side to side using Mantis's mount.
24 mm ride height front and back.

The loose condition comes and goes, so I chalk that up to track conditions, but the tight on power has always been there, and continues to be. I thought about the arms, and I plan on pulling them off tonight when i get home from work. They are stock, and about 3 months old.

Given the same temps for the same amount of driving time, do you guys think it's better to have taller gearing, or lower gearing with boost added?

They went the wrong way Losi's are running 3800kv's and we are running 4000kv's???? the 4600 pro4 is already too much for 99% of us (me included). who would want a 4pole with that many rpms?

lower gear/higher timing creates less heat and more speed. you set your boost to come on late so it only happens on the straights. you can basically use timing to limit your speed instead of always changing pinions.

Damn, wish I knew about that: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-Combo-4500kV

I think the 4500 would be better for our truck, but esc + motor for < $150

Not sensored like the Tekin Pro4. I know the MMP & Pro4 gives you tons of tuning options, i'm guessing that ESC is going to be pretty basic.

I'm not sure what esc Mantis is running, but here's some general info on the Pro4 motors.

While the Pro4 motors can be run on "sensored only" type speed controls (lrp, novak, etc) they will run hotter than normal with no power gain. As a 4 pole motor the sensors loose accuracy moreso than a 2 pole motor as the rpm ramps up and the base timing on the sensors is higher than optimum. The Pro4 motors will perform best (both temperature wise and performance wise) when run on a "dual mode" esc that starts in sensored and switches to sensorless like the Rx8 or MMpro with 0-10 degrees of timing on the esc and geared up.

go toe in in the front, put 2.5mm limiters in the front (under pistons),
increase front link spacers to 5mm ,rear to zero
yellow sway in front blue in rear
yellow front springs, blue rear (right now your rear springs are harder than front and that will never work!) blue/blue is ok but not blue/yellow

try some of that and let us know how it goes

How do you have your body vented? I saw a few jumps where you were nose high and it didn't seem like it lifted any higher, where even my swiss cheese Flo-Tek would have clipped the rear bumper on the ground....