5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
02-29-2012 | 07:40 PM
Can someone explain to me why the Rear Reds aren't in any conversation about this spring issue?
They're 3.4, and some of you are putting 3.5 greens on like it's an improvement?
I can see the whites, and definitely the blues. But Why aren't we using the reds and skipping to throwing fronts on the rears? Is there something about the length and the wider range of compression compared to the stubbier springs (front?)
I've read every post. Don't re-explain, just clarify a tad for me?
They're 3.4, and some of you are putting 3.5 greens on like it's an improvement?
I can see the whites, and definitely the blues. But Why aren't we using the reds and skipping to throwing fronts on the rears? Is there something about the length and the wider range of compression compared to the stubbier springs (front?)
I've read every post. Don't re-explain, just clarify a tad for me?
02-29-2012 | 07:41 PM
Can someone explain to me why the Rear Reds aren't in any conversation about this spring issue?
They're 3.4, and some of you are putting 3.5 greens on like it's an improvement?
I can see the whites, and definitely the blues. But Why aren't we using the reds and skipping to throwing fronts on the rears? Is there something about the length and the wider range of compression compared to the stubbier springs (front?)
I've read every post. Don't re-explain, just clarify a tad for me?
They're 3.4, and some of you are putting 3.5 greens on like it's an improvement?
I can see the whites, and definitely the blues. But Why aren't we using the reds and skipping to throwing fronts on the rears? Is there something about the length and the wider range of compression compared to the stubbier springs (front?)
I've read every post. Don't re-explain, just clarify a tad for me?
02-29-2012 | 07:42 PM
------
Thanks. Trying to figure if the MMP and reciever will fit happily. Guess it's time to measure. Thanks for finding them Sal, and the pics for a base idea, Dan!
02-29-2012 | 07:42 PM
02-29-2012 | 08:13 PM
My theory is as we increase the rear wheel rate (to closer match the front wheel rate), we'll likely need shock valving/oil that is a lot closer. A common setup was yellow front/yellow rear (4.8/3.1, or about a third softer) and 32/30. If you crank up the rear spring rate 35-50%, I'd assume that would require a similar increase in damping. That's just a guess on my part, I don't have access to a shock dyno or a seven post machine so I don't have any way to measure/calculate it like I can with spring frequency or wheel rate.
02-29-2012 | 09:45 PM
I'm going to do a Center Stick pack and lay some weights along the edge of the packs for as low as I can get without the Chassis weight and bag it. I'm tired of spending money on 'this' rig. Spring is coming and the 1/8 are opening around here. I have an RC8 to tune. It will remain my indoor Truck until I figure it out.
I'm going to try the Spring deal tonight and race tomorrow probably. I don't think there's anymore input needed, but I'll voice my opinion about it. (hoping to drive tomorrow is more like it)
On that note, Does anyone have the page number any of the Center Mounted Setup Pics are on? I just want to ballpark idea my own Modification. Thread search failed me this time.
I'm going to try the Spring deal tonight and race tomorrow probably. I don't think there's anymore input needed, but I'll voice my opinion about it. (hoping to drive tomorrow is more like it)
On that note, Does anyone have the page number any of the Center Mounted Setup Pics are on? I just want to ballpark idea my own Modification. Thread search failed me this time.
02-29-2012 | 10:05 PM
Finally got to run my truck today. Unfortunately track was over watered. Started to dry up about the time I was leaving. When it started go dry out truck was pretty hooked up. Running with the exotek chassis. Definitely a difference compared to my last truck. Running the MTK clutch basket with a tekin pro4 4000 motor. Think I need the dual rate shock pistons to settle the rear end down.
Whens the next time you plan on going to coyote's, it'd be nice to race another sc10 4x4 and talk about setups etc.......
02-29-2012 | 10:32 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
From: Seattle, WA
I posted awhile ago about a clicking noise i was having under heavy throttle. I took the rear diff out and replaced the diff oil that was leaking out and put everything back together. The noise went away for a week or so and returned today at the track. It will click under hard throttle and while turning towards the driver side but not while turning toward the passenger side. What do you guys think. Just seems weird that it went away then came back. btw I am running the factory battery tray and stock slipper, but have the brace and mantis center diff coming soon.
Thanks
Jody
Thanks
Jody
02-29-2012 | 10:47 PM
The clicking when turning left on hard throttle is the front diff, i test by holding each front wheel one at a time and stabbing the throttle(be cautious of spinning rear wheels). It should make a bad clicking noise when you hold one wheel and not the other, so it's the diff. I used longer 2.5mmx12mm bolts on the diffs, takes a while to screw em in but the longer bolts along with 1 extra shim under each big diff gear and you're set for a long time. Less leaking too because the diff is assembled tight
EDIT: These are the screws i used, any brand will work, size is important
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Head-Screws-10
EDIT: These are the screws i used, any brand will work, size is important
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Head-Screws-10
02-29-2012 | 10:54 PM
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 37
From: Seattle, WA
Guys i bought the rtr and from the start i noticed the motor was running to hot. I'm getting 170+ after 8-10 runs. That was with the stock 14/62 setup. I put an aluminum heat sink on and went to a 13/62. I can't get any lower and still make the doubles on my track, but the temps are still high. Is there a chance it may be turning to fast and I need to go up to reduce temps? I'm new to this but I know heat will kill a motor, so I would love to get this worked out. I don't mind going faster but can't go any lower than the 13. Thanks for your help.
Jody
Jody
02-29-2012 | 11:02 PM
02-29-2012 | 11:13 PM
Ill post some detailed pics tomorrow of how I fit everything in the chassis