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Old 07-21-2011 | 09:50 AM
  #4951  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
OK here it is; a little under a month in the making.

We tried several different configurations of saddle packs and found no real success in handling for most all racer levels. Plus the fact that owners of SC trucks (and most electric guys in general) don't have saddle packs.

I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Edit: I forgot to mention, there is "0" lead or balance weights anywhere.... and the battery is in the mid position.
So you took out the center chassis brace?

Is this the same truck that you had issue breaking the back part of the chassis off?
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:22 AM
  #4952  
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Originally Posted by Eli
its called an underbody coaster, sdrc should have some maybe as early as this friday. Since im running the clicker i dont think i will throw a belt so i plan on taking off all the covers and running the clear underbody.
Use some black grease on the outdrives, green slime may encourage leakage after a few runs.
Yeah I do have an underbody, trimmed it very carefully to seal up well. I just don't want to run it in the enduro as it's one more thing to hold heat and slow down battery changes. Even still I wouldn't want to run with the covers off regularly.

Scott is going to run the enduro with exactly the combo you mentioned.

Clear belt covers would be best of both worlds.

These 4pole motors make a ton of braking power, I have it turned down to 30% braking on my ESC now!
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:26 AM
  #4953  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
OK here it is; a little under a month in the making.

We tried several different configurations of saddle packs and found no real success in handling for most all racer levels. Plus the fact that owners of SC trucks (and most electric guys in general) don't have saddle packs.

I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Edit: I forgot to mention, there is "0" lead or balance weights anywhere.... and the battery is in the mid position.
If you're going to that effort you should first cornerweight without the swaybars connected. They can cause some preload that you may be compensating for. If it is equal without swaybars, and sway bars throw it off, you'd need adjustable sway bar links or to bend the bars slightly.
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:29 AM
  #4954  
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Originally Posted by OSherman
very nice!!!.. im doing a similar approach, but using weight ballast since i think this truck is a lil on the lite side..
We think it needs to lose another 8oz's
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:33 AM
  #4955  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
So you took out the center chassis brace?

Is this the same truck that you had issue breaking the back part of the chassis off?
Yes I took out the center brace. If you look carefully next to the battery is a carbon brace and one (that you can't see) under the ESC. We took video of it last night during testing. I put roughly 45 minutes on it and after getting use to the handling and making other changes I purposely cased the landing several times on the triple at our test track. As you can see it's still in one piece.

We are developing this set up and are working on a chassis brace & different battery hold down.

Last edited by Racecrafter; 07-21-2011 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:39 AM
  #4956  
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Originally Posted by CentralCoaster
If you're going to that effort you should first cornerweight without the swaybars connected. They can cause some preload that you may be compensating for. If it is equal without swaybars, and sway bars throw it off, you'd need adjustable sway bar links or to bend the bars slightly.
Yeah thanks for the tip...

What you can't see in the photo's is that the bars are loose in the mounts. There was no preload on the bars.

As an added tip: If your bars are not flat or built straight from the get go and need to be tweaked to make them straight, throw them away and start over or get a new bar as they will always return to their natural/ original position.
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:41 AM
  #4957  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
We think it needs to lose another 8oz's
you running a SuperSoft setup?? Oil, Boingers and Pistons...

ive only replaced the oil in my kit shocks.. havent fully rebuilt yet. seems stiff..
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:49 AM
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Thumbs up Awesome Support.

Just wanted to say Thank You to Team Associated's customer support. I have had a ton of support from Aldo and Bill, and they are very quick to answer my questions.

Thanks again guys!
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:50 AM
  #4959  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
OK here it is; a little under a month in the making.

We tried several different configurations of saddle packs and found no real success in handling for most all racer levels. Plus the fact that owners of SC trucks (and most electric guys in general) don't have saddle packs.

I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Edit: I forgot to mention, there is "0" lead or balance weights anywhere.... and the battery is in the mid position.
Man Jimmy, that looks good and the fact you can throw a stick pack in is a huge plus!

But who wired that thing? It looks like you dropped a plate of spegettheiehehitjititit (I. Know its spelled wrong) on it

If you can post up in my thread as well with this incase there's guys looking into that. If its as good as you say I want peoples to know

Travis
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:52 AM
  #4960  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
Yes I took out the center brace. If you look carefully next to the battery is a carbon brace and one (that you can't see) under the ESC. We took video of it last night during testing. I put roughly 45 minutes on it and after getting use to the handling and making other changes I purposely cased the landing several times on the triple at our test track. As you can see it's still in one piece.
You can run one of the Losi short packs and loose some weight and then move it around to get a better balance. Would be interesting to see what it would scale out at. 540 would shave some more weight. Maybe remove part of the rear bumper. It can be lighter but I think with the FT stuff coming out just hardware changes will help. I think in the video with Ryan's truck showed it at 91 oz. That is not far from ROAR 88oz weight imit.
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Old 07-21-2011 | 10:56 AM
  #4961  
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Originally Posted by Racecrafter
OK here it is; a little under a month in the making.

We tried several different configurations of saddle packs and found no real success in handling for most all racer levels. Plus the fact that owners of SC trucks (and most electric guys in general) don't have saddle packs.

I'll let the pictures do the talking:

Edit: I forgot to mention, there is "0" lead or balance weights anywhere.... and the battery is in the mid position.
Hey Jimmy,

Great stuff.. I was wondering if you noted baseline weights prior to centering the battery. Unfortunately I don't have scales here to weigh mine. I'm curious how "unbalanced" the truck is/was in its original configuration or how much it's changed as it sits now. I was tossing around the idea of saddles, but your current setup would make life easier. Thanks.
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Old 07-21-2011 | 12:10 PM
  #4962  
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Originally Posted by OSherman
you running a SuperSoft setup?? Oil, Boingers and Pistons...

ive only replaced the oil in my kit shocks.. havent fully rebuilt yet. seems stiff..
Oil = 375R, 325F

"Boingers" Stock for now.

Pistons = 1.2 F, 1.3 R
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Old 07-21-2011 | 12:10 PM
  #4963  
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Anyone got a current recommendation on a drill to use with the Associated hex driver bits for a reasonable price?
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Old 07-21-2011 | 12:19 PM
  #4964  
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Originally Posted by Cameron Kellogg
You can run one of the Losi short packs and loose some weight and then move it around to get a better balance. Would be interesting to see what it would scale out at. 540 would shave some more weight. Maybe remove part of the rear bumper. It can be lighter but I think with the FT stuff coming out just hardware changes will help. I think in the video with Ryan's truck showed it at 91 oz. That is not far from ROAR 88oz weight imit.
A 540 is 2.1 ounces lighter than a 550 of the same turns and centralizes the weight more center due to it being shorter.

We usually run a 540 (and have in 4x4 since the Jammin days) but since most are running 550's we want to work on set ups for this motor as well. Next will be the 540 4 pole equipment starting to make it's way out now.

A titanium/aluminum screw kit would help quite a bit on this truck.

As for a 3800mAh "22" pack I'm not too sure about the run time especially on high bite. The voltage drop comes on much quicker in a lower mAh pack and thus things heat up quicker due to the loss of voltage/ amperage compensation.
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Old 07-21-2011 | 12:19 PM
  #4965  
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Originally Posted by jrusso3
Hey Jimmy,

Great stuff.. I was wondering if you noted baseline weights prior to centering the battery. Unfortunately I don't have scales here to weigh mine. I'm curious how "unbalanced" the truck is/was in its original configuration or how much it's changed as it sits now. I was tossing around the idea of saddles, but your current setup would make life easier. Thanks.
I have them written down and I will look them up for comment.
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