Well you said to report back after my outdoor run with my truck now that it has been re-done. I was very surprised, it did very well. WC you will like this, out of 18 trucks I was the only AE there and managed to TQ for the main. I ended up 2nd in the main, MIP Losi got me. I didn't have enough speed in the straights. I have a Novak 4.5 550 in it now w/14T, It was coming off @135 if I could go up to a 15T I think I would have enough. Very big track. I shortened the rear camber links and left the yellow springs on, handled and jumped great.

Picked up a used SC10 4x4. Been reading the forums on some grinding and belt slap sounds others have experienced because I am too. Took both the front and rear diff down. Appears fine. Cleaned it all up and reassembled it all. So it got me thinking if maybe the spur and pinion were off since it is a bastard calf having the Velineon ESC / Motor combo.

It has a Traxxas Velineon 3500kv 10 turn brushless motor (540 size I think) and Velineon ESC.

What would be the proper spur and pinion? It came with a 48P/93T spur and 16T pinion (1/8" or 3mm shaft).

FROM THE MANUAL:
To calculate the SC10 4x4 Final Drive Ration (a.k.a. gear ratio), use the following formula: (spur gear # teeth) / (pinion gear # teeth) x 2.57 = Final Drive Ratio

It has a 48 pitch 93t / 16t X 2.57 = 14.94 is that a good ratio for just bashing around the yard? Would this combo causing loud belt skips?

The alternative I was thinking was a 32 pitch 62t / 13t x 2.57 = 12.26

I just want reliable cool running.

congrats!

If you don't want to go up on the pinion size, you can try boosting the motor.

What setup did you settle on?

Still running the 8mm mod in the rear just moved to the inside hole on the hub adapter, 1.2 pistons, emulsion, 32.5 front 27.5 rear, no weight by the servo, just next to the saddle packs and by the gear cover, yellow front and rear.

AWESOME !!!




Good race tuning dude with the shorter camber , adds stability over the bumps ....:tire:

That motor is a 550 can. If your going to go bashing around I would go with 32 pitch that is probably the noise you're hearing. I would also try to get the ratio down a little but follow the manual that works for me.

When you guys say "shorter camber links" are you using the outer most hole on the inner ballstud or are you use the inner most hole on the C plate? I am currently set up using the outmost on the hub plate and I think I am on the inner hole on the inner ballstud.

What would you describe the track conditions as, in particular traction (low bite, etc)?

The C-hub is mounted up side down & most use the outside hole .:tire:

OK so a "Short Camber link" is using the inside hole then. I am using the outside whole right now. Would you recommend this change for a high bite short, tight clay track?

what are you trying to achieve with the change?

When I made that comment about a short camber link it was if using the standard hub .

Shorter camber link in the rear adds stability , good for bumpy out door .

On smooth indoor clay a longer link is often preferred ....

If using the C-hub outdoors or on slippery surfaces , try using just 5mm on the chassis ball stud for extra grip .
If you raise the stud to 7mm will free up the truck more , good for high traction indoor clay ..

you may find this info useful TomErickson, its from the Hudy offroad setup guide:

For me personally in general when I needed the car to square up quicker, I would go the route of shortening the camber link for that effect.

Bowfighters should make a good outdoor tire.
They are almost ready to start racing here.

What servos is everyone using? I just stuck a standard traxxas blue digital servo in my truck. It turns fine. but after this thing wears out im going to be looking for a replacement.
Have you guys tried the spektrum branded servos? I was thinking about trying them.

Tom despite that Hudy info , if you use a longer rear camber
on a bumpy course ?

You will find the truck will dig into the holes and the bumps become even bigger...;)

This is why I recommended as I did ..