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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 12607869)
Tune results
The extra 1/2 oz ballast on the front of chassis made the truck smoother & more consistent .... Funny how just a few pieces of lead improve this truck way more then most aftermarket parts ...:cool: With that ? Decided to purchase the Exotech chassis , will get to order after next weeks race ... Why am doing so ? With all the extra ballast I am packing ( 4 1/2 ozs now ) the extra weight of the exo will be almost the same as I am running now . So the extra stiffest of the exo will be why I am going to use . Hoping the parts extra stiffest allow fewer mistakes from less flex in the chassis . Oyeah.... Quad pad VTS help set a personal best for the PINK last night....:nod: I'm on roll ....:deathstar |
one other benefit that those of us who have used the exotek chassis for quite some time now have known is that it adds weight at the lowest point possible on the chassis versus adding various weights to right on the chassis plate.
It also allowed me to not need the chassis brace, saving alittle bit of weight up top. |
Originally Posted by imrob
(Post 12609213)
I guess you Did not like the all weight setup that much now. You do know that the main reason of making a car light is to put the weight were it is needed. Our are you finally racing out side now as to why your switching to the exotek piece. For your information I run a sock chassis with no added weight at all but put some ft parts on. I hope this don't male you mad I'm am just wondering why the sudden change. I happen to like the flex but it helps on outside lose tracks.
I am adding 4 1/2 oz already to the plastic chassis. TRCR is med to high traction, stiffer arms & chassis would only help control the twist and unexpected handling. also ditchN the chassis brace ,no need for. Eco weights 6 oz more then plastic.. |
WC, What speedo and motor do you use?
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Silver
using Reedy Sonic 4.5 550 12p/62s 30 degree timing Lrp FLOW ESC |
ok i was able to try a c diff out on a 4x4 sc10. i have the vts and i am a way better driver than the guy that had the c diff. i run the vts in mine. he would not let me take it out of his car to put in mine which sucked. he did let me drive his car which i might say sucked big time really cheap radio and gear no steering at all lol. tried to give the guy some pointers but he said he new everything lol even though i had lapped him and some other this weekend. with the same truck alomst. im not sure if it really helped on a lose track or not cause of his car so im going to buy one and put it in mine and see what happens. it almost seem like he a lot more wheel spin then i did and would not hook up but then again that is probably his set up with maybe one to many pins in the cdiff. i run my vts lose. and now i think he is out of stock which bummed out. any way any body run the novak system 4.5. i actually just found a sweet spot for my home track running 62/ 13. i top out just before the turn on a 180 foot straight which is sweet. i was at a 62/12.
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Yeah, hard to compare any part with a different trucks parts & setup.
More wheel spin could be setup, too many pins, not enough pins... so many different possibilities. But in general, the slipper will slip, the C-Diff will put all the power down and diferentiate front to rear power output. It's up to you whether you want a more equal 50/50 power distribution (more pins) or if you want the diff to send more power to the end with the least traction (less pins). Same theory as a center gear diff, this is just a ball diff. |
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While your waiting try the VTS with a extra pad on the outside & the heavy duty yellow pad behind the spur.
Will be smoother & more traction .. less wheel spin inexpensive too |
pads
what r part numbers for pads.
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If you are sticking with the pad setup, based on what Shark recently commented on, give the RC Shox ones a look
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Ae VTS Slipper Pads
2 Attachment(s)
louie
Here yeah go ... I listed the heavy duty pad and recommend to use behind the spur gear for improved performance ...:) Heavy duty pad #91170 VTS pad # 91177 |
Clarity on shock limiters
Guys -- about to rebuild my shocks & set them up for indoor, med sized smooth clay track w/ high traction. After searching this thread I noticed 8mm shock limiters seem to be the top recommendation. As this will be the first time I set them up without boots wanted to get a little clarity on shock limiters.
Should the limiters be below or above the spring cup? Can I still use the shock bumpers (part of ASC91070) & if so would they be counted in the 8mm measurement? Thanks in advance! |
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Originally Posted by khofman
(Post 12623401)
Guys -- about to rebuild my shocks & set them up for indoor, med sized smooth clay track w/ high traction. After searching this thread I noticed 8mm shock limiters seem to be the top recommendation. As this will be the first time I set them up without boots wanted to get a little clarity on shock limiters.
Should the limiters be below or above the spring cup? Can I still use the shock bumpers (part of ASC91070) & if so would they be counted in the 8mm measurement? Thanks in advance! Suggest no limiters inside or out for best performance .... Can use just 1 of the rubber bumpers on the outside of shocks for better wear & tear if you like ... Place the bumper shim on top of the spring cup . |
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