Thanks WC, would those track conditions also call for shocks mounted inside hole on F&R arms / outside hole on F&R towers? Seen you post about that setup before. Right now I have shocks mounted outside F & inside R arms / middle hole on F&R towers.

Lite weight setup
 

What weight is considered lite. I am not racing a ROAR event just club racing. I know that 2505g is min weight. How lite have you guys ran.

8.0 540 motor, 12mm shocks, slammed srevo, lowerd chassis brace, no belt cover, alum screw kit, ti shock mounts, cut bumpers, std team slipper, clicker not locked, shorty pack in line, esc in line behind battery on its side, 2290g

my ride is at 5.7 lb right at the moment can make as low as 5.2lb with out any added ballast & using a shorty battery...

Use the outside hole of the front arms. Sc10 already has plenty of steering and using the outside hole helps by giving you smoother or less steering...

Use the middle hole on the front shock tower .


Rear shocks

use inside hole on arm & outside hole on tower..

This is where I have running for med traction indoor clay..

also unscrew rear shock eye 1 turn
20mm ride height

Cain are you still runing carpet or out door I wood like you to run this truck out door and see if you can get on the podium

Hey there Tomas15, I know it has been several pages since you posted this but if you check out post 18524 http://www.rctech.net/forum/10409446-post18524.html you can see an easy way to center mount a stick pack. If you do this you will need to have a chassis brace ... you can make one on your own quite easily if you do not have a FT edition or the upgrades. If you have the time it is worth reading through the bazillion posts in this forum so you can see where the truck started and where many of the posters took it well before AE caught on and adopted the changes that were being done by owners. You will also find some very useful information along the way.

As for the center mount stick pack I found it to work well. After experimenting I decided a lighter truck was the way to go so I ended up converted to a shorty. I started with it in the middle but after some testing found that it worked best for me mounted forward and to the right as shown in post 28691 http://www.rctech.net/forum/11129060-post28691.html This puts the weight on the front end where it is needed and balances it left to right very well without adding extra weight.



Khofman,

With your track being smooth you may be fine with no limiters as WC suggested but if your track lets you get going faster and you crash at all often then I highly recommend limiters. The main reason is that the suspension can travel far enough during a crash to cause the CVDs to bind with the outdrives. As they bind three things happen ... 1) grooves get worn into the CV where it meets up with the outdrive (easy to check), 2) the CVs will eventually bend and 3) the outdrive wears out the bushings in the diffs leading to accelerated diff fluid leakage. This has been gone over in detail throughout this forum. With the newer steel inserts it may not be as much of an issue on point 3, but the others are still of concern.

As for limiters, above the cup is what I would recommend as placing them below will change the preload on the springs. Hard limiters are fine but I would use the stock rubber one on top so bottoming will be softened. Depending upon how smooth your track is it is well worth trying some differing limiters inside. Down travel adjustments can be very handy on smooth surfaces.

Hope this helps,

Jason

[QUOTE=AzFittin;12625092]Hey there Tomas15, I know it has been several pages since you posted this but if you check out post 18524 http://www.rctech.net/forum/10409446-post18524.html you can see an easy way to center mount a stick pack. If you do this you will need to have a chassis brace ... you can make one on your own quite easily if you do not have a FT edition or the upgrades. If you have the time it is worth reading through the bazillion posts in this forum so you can see where the truck started and where many of the posters took it well before AE caught on and adopted the changes that were being done by owners. You will also find some very useful information along the way.

As for the center mount stick pack I found it to work well. After experimenting I decided a lighter truck was the way to go so I ended up converted to a shorty. I started with it in the middle but after some testing found that it worked best for me mounted forward and to the right as shown in post 28691 http://www.rctech.net/forum/11129060-post28691.html This puts the weight on the front end where it is needed and balances it left to right very well without adding extra weight.

Thanks for the help but I have actually not yet bought a sc10 4x4 :lol: I was just thinking of it being possible to run my electronics in this truck. But I'm not sure if should buy the sc10 4x4 ft bc I have an feeling that associated is working on a new vehicle. So think it would be smarter to wait

Switched to tekno a bit ago to share parts with my EB48, but I have toyed with the idea of picking up another one to do indoor carpet in a light configuration. The car has a special place with me, even though I love my Tekno, I always keep giving the SC10 4x4 a look. It reminds me of my feelings I had for my Tekno converted D8. One of my favorite vehicles, even though my EB48 is better, If I was to pick that vehicle up again, I wouldn't be opposed to running it even knowing its not as good as my Eb48.

I think the main thing I am waiting to see personally is what AE does with the design. there are several things with the vehicle that annoyed the heck out of me that I want them to fix that I can see them doing in a revision, in particular, diff access.

But, I feel the vehicle can be very capable outdoors with the right setup and maybe a few changes from AE. It is killer though indoors for sure. I just think the class evolved outdoors in a way that AE didn't see coming with running these on big 1/8 tracks. Not surprised vehicles based on 1/8 designs do well on 1/8 sized tracks.

I am also looking forward to you guys running the light setup commenting on how they handle on outdoor big tracks. Do you feel certain changes for light setup are still usable, maybe doing like WC did with the Exotek chassis but still keeping some of the lightweight changes, etc?

But I am always happy to help anyone to get there SC10 4x4s on point. I rather see you run the sc10 4x4 and not be frustrated than leaving the class.

AzFittin

I recommended no limiters for the best performance .

The external limiter's really won't help you stop the CVA from bashing the outdrive cups as the arm's bend on hard landings and the CVA will rub even if you are using them.

Just saying the limiters are not even a good band aid or cure for stopping the rubbing from occurring .

However
Adding the limiter's does no harm ...


Just giving the other side & reasoning why I don't use limiters anymore nor recommend .

Actually still race & enjoy the Sc10 4x4 , funnest car I own .

I don't the you will want to drive the techno after you try this one I gust want to see my truck win I know it's fast on the last layout I asked a once sponsored friend to dive it 4 laps and he ticked off 4 30second laps at that time the 1/8 buggys ran 28-29

funny thing is that guys in 1/8 often over power there vehicles. A lot this can be a big cause of difference in lap times. Its part of the reason I went down to a 1900Kv motor in my 1/8 since the 2050 was a bit much sometimes when the track dried out.

Ultimately though my assessment is similar to what Shark has posted, someone who's opinion I trust as he actually tests the products versus making fan boy assumptions and outright falsehoods / misrepesentations of products that they have never tested.

And to me, with the way the class has gone outdoors, the Sc10 4x4 wasn't designed for that. As one way of putting it, having an all-terrain tire can be great in a variety of conditions, but if you are running all the time on snow and ice, are you really surprised a dedicated snow tire does the best there?

that assessment can be seen in my opinions with sc10 4x4 being a beast indoors and vehicles like Tekno and Losi being beasts on 1/8 style tracks. Putting your head in the sand and ignoring that doesn't change that fact.

Working towards improving your vehicle for the conditions that it doesn't excel on is what you should do.

But, it takes a person putting there big boy pants on and making an honest assessment to realize that. If it wasn't for that, you wouldn't have gotten a Clutch basket prior to the VTS Slipper, or a chassis brace, or the saddle pack middle setup, or the RC Shox Center Diff, or the M2C Rear Toe-in block, or any of the lightweight changes that people have done.

same with us Tekno drivers with the changes we have been doing to our vehicles for improvements. :nod:

I've stripped the front diff a couple times now after relatively few packs. Is there a known issue I should be correcting this time around?

Have you put in the new shims under the diff gears?

if not, call associated and they will send you new diff shims. They are 0.5mm and go under the sun gears replacing the 0.2mm ones. You will then remove the shim that goes between the diff "cup" and the actual diff itself.

Make sure you remove this, if you don't when you put these new shims in it will bind up.

That will solve the diff stripping issue.

Did you buy your sc10 4x4 recently and new?

New in September of '12. One rebuild kit since then. Will have to check the outside shims.

Does the RPM arms solve this issue in any way? I just noticed my front CVA slightly bent and tried to fix them with a vise but will just buy new ones. Too bad MIP or other aftermarket brands didn't design a stronger version.