![]() |
Originally Posted by Kromulous
(Post 12330980)
I got 5 in now, thats what i had on the clay track. Seemed pretty good, just was wondering what happens when i put more in. Next time i go to the clay track, i will put 8 in, and see what the difference is.
More pins, the more it drives off the rear tires? so the more the chance it has to step out on acceleration? On the clay track it was fine, felt it was really pulling with the front end. So that make since i guess. Yes the more pins you add is just like adding heavier center dif fluid. the more pins=more rear drive. On a high bite track you can run 6-8 with no problem all 10 if the track is like velcro! even with 10 the pins the dif acts centrifugally so it actually gets tighter as you accelerate! |
Originally Posted by SC Shaun
(Post 12330526)
Depends... Do I get an upgrade/parts budget or work with what i'm handed? :sneaky:
For some reason this thread seems so much more peacefull, cant put my finger on why..........:rolleyes: |
Since I decided to stick with this truck and go light I can say that it performs well in a light configuration. I am still working on basics though. I am hoping to get it dialed in for the winter series.
So far I need to go through the driveline again for my next track day. I am using the yellow springs and feel that I need to go softer now. I am running RC Shox 2-stage pistons with AE 20 wt in the rear and AE 27.5 up front and it is a little too bouncy. So I plan to test the blue springs next. They are a little lighter weight than the yellows. I am really loving the lightweight set-up. I only use about 2500mAH in 5 minutes and have enough battery with my 4000mAH Shorty pack to run beyond 7 minutes. I will post my experience on this thread as I improve the truck. |
wonder with the lighter setup if you may benefit with bigger holes in the pistons? I remember someone selling some at one time and I think he had a somewhat lighter setup. mantis can probably confirm what is better (actually, he can lol). Maybe his UFOs would be a hot ticket with the lightweight setup?
|
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12331596)
wonder with the lighter setup if you may benefit with bigger holes in the pistons? I remember someone selling some at one time and I think he had a somewhat lighter setup. mantis can probably confirm what is better (actually, he can lol). Maybe his UFOs would be a hot ticket with the lightweight setup?
you can definitely go larger holes with the lighter setups and it will work very well. UFO's have never been made for the SC10. I am working on having them 3d printed but its expensive..... |
cool. What would you recommend? just say a 0.1mm size up for the holes all around? I got a piston hole reaming tool here that I bought on Amain, the holder for the drill bits SUCKs but the bits are nice. If I find another SC10 4x4 to tinker with, may look into that on the light side of things.
|
Hi, pretty much new here. I have couple of quick questions about the sc10 4x4.
I've read through some of this thread, I also looked pretty closely at the first page when building my kit. I've also searched for most of the information, but I can not figure out why I'm having over heating issues with my truck. My setup as follows: 93T 48p spure 16T Pinion Castle creations 3800kv motor with SV2 ESC Motor is really hot, esc is warm and battery is warm. After 10 mins of run time. 20T front and back pully original style slipper Clicker locked No belt covers on the back or the middle, I left the front belt cover intact. FT kit is on the way. When I have the belt off, the front and rear transmission spin very freely. I've tested this by putting the wheels on and giving it a push. It rolls at least 10 feet no problem. When I put the belt on and set it to what I assume is the correct tension, It rolls maybe 9 feet, and this is with the belt covers off. What worries me is, if I try to run 32 pitch gears and go with a 15T. The motor gets way too hot, and I'm afraid I'm going to cook the motor. When I run the 48P gears and the belt covers, it gets really hot but no were near as hot as the 13T 32P. I've tried shaving a little off the belt covers to give more clearance but that hasn't helped any, my only way to run this truck without it getting way to hot is to run with out belt covers and a small pinion. Does any one have a suggestion on something to look for? I've backed off all the screws in the transmission, the wheel nuts are tight but not clamped down. My only other plan is to get a motor with more torque but these castles are crazy little motors. Thanks for the help in advance. |
Originally Posted by Cain
(Post 12331630)
cool. What would you recommend? just say a 0.1mm size up for the holes all around? I got a piston hole reaming tool here that I bought on Amain, the holder for the drill bits SUCKs but the bits are nice. If I find another SC10 4x4 to tinker with, may look into that on the light side of things.
Well the V3 pistons have been out for about a month now, the feedback i am getting with stock 2x1.6/1.7 holes is 300/200 seems to work very well . I think going up to 1.7/1.8 would be really good. Hit me up if you get your truck back on the track, I have absolutely zero time for testing lately. I have a few new products i would love to make but I am just swamped right now! |
Unbeatable VTS Quad Pad Slipper
1 Attachment(s)
:nod:
|
Thats pretty funny!
|
What causes my truck to want to spin out MID straight on outdoor tracks?
|
lol cherry!
|
Originally Posted by MikeXray
(Post 12331812)
What causes my truck to want to spin out MID straight on outdoor tracks?
|
you running boost or timing?
|
Originally Posted by Jstall7543
(Post 12331843)
you running boost or timing?
|
| All times are GMT -7. It is currently 09:55 PM. |
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.3.9 Patch Level 3
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.