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Originally Posted by Wildcat1971
(Post 11003512)
I went to a lighter spring and lost rear traction......grrrrrrrrrr
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Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 11003543)
when traction goes down i lower my rear ride height... when traction is good i go 24mm f / 24mm r... when it gets looser i dont change anything but ride height, and i drop the rear down to 23.5mm or 23mm depending on how bad it really is. always use yellow springs all around.
when switching to a lighter spring in back to gain more traction .... Also will find more steering due to the extra chassis roll ... |
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 11003543)
when traction goes down i lower my rear ride height... when traction is good i go 24mm f / 24mm r... when it gets looser i dont change anything but ride height, and i drop the rear down to 23.5mm or 23mm depending on how bad it really is. always use yellow springs all around.
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Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11003505)
Seen a few posters even suggest stiffer rear springs , proof plenty of traction with the truck ..
my truck jumps very flat, which i have most cutouts removed on a flowtek, all but front wheel & side cutouts. |
My rear has too much traction lol. Tried 5K front and 10K rear diffs and it still had a push.
P.S. my driving style is rally drifts through corner. |
Originally Posted by Evil Genius jr.
(Post 11003617)
My rear has too much traction lol. Tried 5K front and 10K rear diffs and it still had a push.
P.S. my driving style is rally drifts through corner. post on here from the hudy guide. also i noticed when my rear diff was alittle bit lower on fluid the rear was also alittle looser too. i like to fill my diffs up to the cross pins. also i had a slight on power push, then just swapping to the ht pad on the inside removed a majority of it and made the truck square up alittle better on power |
Where are you guys checking ride height on this truck?
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Just before the chassis kicks up. Basically on both front and rear edges of the middle plate
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Originally Posted by frankrizzo
(Post 11004464)
Where are you guys checking ride height on this truck?
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whats everyone's preference on diff fluid for the front and rear? im running on an indoor high bite clay track too..
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Originally Posted by BorackBasher
(Post 11005380)
whats everyone's preference on diff fluid for the front and rear? im running on an indoor high bite clay track too..
have seen others say if your running the center diff or exotek clutch lock 10k front and 7k rear. |
Running 20000f and 5000r. Thinking about trying 7000 in the rear next.
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So far, the adjustments and optional parts have made a pretty nice difference in the truck.
Chassis brace, VTS Slipper adjusted a couple turns in, backed off the clicker to let it work a little and the saddle pack battery kit. Hot Bodies Megabites on Avid +3mm wheels. This weekend was medium traction outdoors and the truck was awesome. I'm running the Venom 4000KV system and don't see where anyone would need any more power. More power can be difficult to drive if you have a heavy finger. She's getting better. |
Originally Posted by Jake S
(Post 11003570)
i thought that was to try to get the truck to actually jump more flat. i tried front springs on the rear after all the talk on here, which i did not have green fronts in my box to try, but even with white fronts i did not like how the truck drove.
my truck jumps very flat, which i have most cutouts removed on a flowtek, all but front wheel & side cutouts. Jake springs do have a big affect with how a truck handles a jump . Stiffer springs will launch & handle landings better. They don't have big affect on the way a truck flies however , that is all done with the drivers approach to the jump & his trigger finger.:tire: If a driver hits the jump to hard he can slap the tail end of chassis and get a nose dive . When in the air more throttle will keep the nose up , less will allow the nose to drop ... When outdoors ? Cutting out all the vents will help specially on windy days . Indoor's ? Venting makes very little difference .... |
One thing I haven't seen people mention, with regards to rear traction, is whether they need it/have too much on or off power. When I first started driving the SC10 4X4 after driving my SCTE I noticed how much more off power steering it had. With my Losi I would brake hard and turn into a corner off power until I was part way through and then slowly feed the power back in. Attempting this driving style with the Associated had me almost looping out into the turn and then pushing hard when I got back on the gas. With how much more weight the SC10 has in the back versus my Losi I really had to adjust my driving style. By driving on power through all the turns I was able to get my lap times back down.
Anyway, just wanted people to think about the differences between on and off power steering when they're tuning their rides. :) |
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