Go with the tundra better air flow and handling

oh really, i had bass ackwards in my head.. :lol:

i have my truck running good now, this should only help even more.

Can someone post or PM the pics of this 8mm mod?

Go back like 5 pages and there are some.

used google and found some different images...

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010001.jpg

http://i142.photobucket.com/albums/r...d/P1010004.jpg

Meh, bad day at the track. truck seemed better, but I think I blew my sensor board. The motor wont turn over with the sensor cable plugged in. Tried 3 different cables. Other stock motors worked fine.

That's my truck over on RCShortCourse. I have a few more pictures, any specific area you looking for?
I am running the B44 CF extension with the stock hubs reversed which puts the camber links in a straight line.

I thought they looked backwards, I was wondering. So your swapped them to keep them more in line. Are the hubs zero degree?

Are there any Cliff Notes for all the upgraded parts that work? I have searched for the FT upgrade conversion as well as some other stuff and I am coming up empty for a solid direction. 1750 pages is a LOT to try and sift thru and the front page doesn't look like its been updated in a year!

I have seen things about the 8mm mod, different center diffs, FT upgrade, dual stage pistons... I just don't know which way to go with this stuff.

The problem is that the thread "owner" is no longer an SC10 4x4 person, so there is no one that can/chooses to update a simple, single place (e.g. the first post) with developments. I really think it may be time for someone to start a "part 2" thread (as was done with the SC10 thread, for different reasons) and properly put together a first post. I can think of a few good candidates (and a few poor candidates) to undertake the task.

Diff Issues.....

So I was having the notorious front diff clicking under braking and acceleration. So I pulled apart the front diff and order all the parts to rebuild it. I put in 7k fluid and just finished putting it together. Before putting the diff back in the gearbox, I held the diff and spun one of the drive cups. The diff gears move but they seem to bind a bit. Then sometimes it completely binds until I actually nudge the other free drive cup. So in the end, I think I would still have the same problem as before. Why is my front diff binding? I tried loosening the 4 screws that holds the diff together. I was wondering if I had them too tight? However, it did not help. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
smanders

are you sure the clicking you heard wasnt from the belt ?

you also could of over shimmed the diff or it could be some dirt in there getting stuck in between the teeth.

the easiest thing to do is tear it back apart and check for and dirt,also check for any bad teeth on the gears. if everything looks good, put it back together DRY. if it still does it take out one shim from both sides (depending on how many you have in there). then put it back together dry again and check.

keep repeating process till you find out what it is.

Forgive me for 2 things:

First, forgive me if this question is dumb.

Second, forgive me if this question has been asked/answered before.

If you were to use both 19T belt pullies, would it effectively act like increasing the pinion gear size? Just curious basically.

I'm just running the stock configuration. One shim on each side between the pin and the larger gasket.

I'll double check the teeth. Thanks for the advice!

Sellout
 

Hey guys selling my truck have ton of brand new spare parts over 350.00 retail make me offer [email protected]