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I've used some STRC aluminum parts on several of my vehicles and was very pleased with the quality and fit of the parts. Haven't heard much/any positive feedback regarding Hotracing.
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Casey , Loose the mud flaps & you can even trim the sides off the rear bumper . Will improve handling on your Sc10 4x4....
Blue Nice parts & great company .... |
do i get the same effect when i use the rear underdrive-pulley instead of the front overdrive-pulley? Cause i glued my clicker and wanna test how it handles.
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Hey I flipped a coin Wild Cherry. Heads I get the B4.2 tails I get the SC10 4wd.
Looks like it's Tails im getting the SC10 4wd first before that buggy. So im looking at a copperhead system AKA endouro's and Savox Servo. Probably $500 for everything. |
Originally Posted by Cody227
(Post 11730175)
do i get the same effect when i use the rear underdrive-pulley instead of the front overdrive-pulley? Cause i glued my clicker and wanna test how it handles.
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Originally Posted by Cody227
(Post 11730175)
do i get the same effect when i use the rear underdrive-pulley instead of the front overdrive-pulley? Cause i glued my clicker and wanna test how it handles.
The over drive will pull a bit more out of the corner , also makes for more steering overall ...( compared to standard pulley) |
Wild Cherry, and every one else here... Thanks for all the help and tips on the sc104x4. I thought for a long time that this truck was the best out there..... but after the set up help from you guys.... I know that it's the closest to a perfect driving machine out there. Associated was always on my top three list of car makers. Don't see myself driving anything else. Keep up the good work.
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Originally Posted by CaseyDDR
(Post 11725781)
Well got my car together and working properly! All I need now is a proper radio and I'll be set... Enjoying the SC4X combo though, seems to work fine for me and keeps up with the other 4x4's out there.
[IMG]http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/CaseyDDR/20130125_014959. The car isn't near as hard to work on as others have said either... Also need RX8 owners who have a SC10 4x4 to post up some settings for the RX8. I will be running a 1410 castle motor till I can get a Pro 4 |
Originally Posted by symmetricon
(Post 11726664)
hot-racing<pure poop
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Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4
(Post 11724811)
So it looks like I'm making the switch to Tekin. I've been castle till now but the bec having issues with savox servos and spektrum receivers has reached a point where even with a cap on the receiver my truck dies every 5 minutes and resets. After DNFing my last 5 races I'm ready to try something new. I spoke with castle and they recommend buying a $20 external bec but I have a great deal on a RX8 and pro 4 4000kv motor in awesome condition so going that way.
I've heard the RX8 needs more tuning so any help with settings for RX8 and gearing for a pro4 4000 and rc shox center diff would be appreciated. |
Center difs back in stock but going quick!
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 11733774)
Center difs back in stock but going quick!
Otherwise I'll be running garodisk in the old mac the knife basket. |
Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
(Post 11731239)
Won't make any difference if clicker is glued or locked down .
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Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4
(Post 11733908)
I shredded my v.2 center diff spur gear but have 2 v.1 spur gears can I just drill the holes for the pins with the right size bit?
Otherwise I'll be running garodisk in the old mac the knife basket. We had a discussion about this a few thousand post ago but i will explain a few things! There is a reason why the spur gears cost what they do, they are not east to machine, first of all they are made from a stock spur gear (4.00) and they are molded out of non machine able plastic (makes it very tough to clean up after machine work is done) while machining the material twist around the tool so about halfway through i have to program stop and pull material off of the tool. The ball holes you could probably drill the your self but would need an indexable super spacer to get the holes on the same B.C. and concentric with the center hole. If the holes are not on center you will not get a groove on the washers and that will also make a mess. Now the pin holes are a complete different animal, I know it looks like they are just holes stuck in there but if you read on the RCShox thread Cameron and i went through dozens of spur gears trying to get the right location of the pin holes. they are not on centerline and they have to be a certain distance away from the balls to work properly, also the ball holes are not a standard drill size, they are interpolated with an endmill, same with the pin holes. So in a nut shell and to answer your question, yes by all means you can drill the holes your self but it will not work properly. Machine work is a "by the hour" trade, take your 4.00 spur gear to a machine shop and see what they will charge to drill the holes for you. CNC rates are generally 80.00 per hour and i promise with programming and setup it would take about an hour to get the first one done and 8-10 minutes of cycle time to do the rest! so now you know why they are 13.00!! Put the price thing in perspective for a minute, do you know how much it cost to make a lexan body, yet nobody complains about shelling out 50 bux for something that literally cost about 5.00, in fact the packaging cost almost as much as the body!! Tires, do you really think it cost 20.00 to make 2 tires, once again they are worth about 2.00 yet we all buy them every two weeks or so, sometime more than that! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ballstud-Set-2 6.50 for something that cost the factory less than 25 cents but we all have them! I am just saying, a 13.00 spur gear is not that bad in the grand scheme of things especially if it works! |
Originally Posted by MantisWorx
(Post 11734166)
We had a discussion about this a few thousand post ago but i will explain a few things! There is a reason why the spur gears cost what they do, they are not east to machine, first of all they are made from a stock spur gear (4.00) and they are molded out of non machine able plastic (makes it very tough to clean up after machine work is done) while machining the material twist around the tool so about halfway through i have to program stop and pull material off of the tool. The ball holes you could probably drill the your self but would need an indexable super spacer to get the holes on the same B.C. and concentric with the center hole. If the holes are not on center you will not get a groove on the washers and that will also make a mess. Now the pin holes are a complete different animal, I know it looks like they are just holes stuck in there but if you read on the RCShox thread Cameron and i went through dozens of spur gears trying to get the right location of the pin holes. they are not on centerline and they have to be a certain distance away from the balls to work properly, also the ball holes are not a standard drill size, they are interpolated with an endmill, same with the pin holes. So in a nut shell and to answer your question, yes by all means you can drill the holes your self but it will not work properly. Machine work is a "by the hour" trade, take your 4.00 spur gear to a machine shop and see what they will charge to drill the holes for you. CNC rates are generally 80.00 per hour and i promise with programming and setup it would take about an hour to get the first one done and 8-10 minutes of cycle time to do the rest! so now you know why they are 13.00!!
Put the price thing in perspective for a minute, do you know how much it cost to make a lexan body, yet nobody complains about shelling out 50 bux for something that literally cost about 5.00, in fact the packaging cost almost as much as the body!! Tires, do you really think it cost 20.00 to make 2 tires, once again they are worth about 2.00 yet we all buy them every two weeks or so, sometime more than that! http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...Ballstud-Set-2 6.50 for something that cost the factory less than 25 cents but we all have them! I am just saying, a 13.00 spur gear is not that bad in the grand scheme of things especially if it works! |
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