I'm using the WP-SC8 ESC. I destroyed one 4 weeks ago, but i have still no idea how xD

I have the 3656 4000kv and it's awesome. For $185, the SCT-Pro combo, it's value priced, but don't let that fool you as to how awesome it is.

Ok, raced my SC10 4x4 outdoors for the first time, track is medium sized 1/8 scale, hard pack very dusty.

I have been racing indoors on carpet for the last year and a half and absolutelly LOVE this truck on it, I have finished 2nd onece and have won every other race entered with a field of on average 15-20 trucks.

So, back to my race yesterday... I figured since I had never ran it on loose dirt conditions I was going to just lower shock oils and make changes one at a time during the day to see how the truck behaved (I run the 8mm Mod on the carpet). During morning practice I found the truck very stable, but very loose and a bit twitchy coming out of corners, also was launching rear high off the bigger jumps. I took of some weight off form the front (left 3/4 oz), added 1/4oz weight to rear (now at 1oz). Second practice, truck felt better, jumped more predictable, could push harder out of turns but still a bit twitchy getting hard on throuttle. So next I went to the softest sway bar (had forgot to even look a it, had stiffest), ran first qualifyer with this changes and felt even better, now I could use more power out of turns (never had a problem going into them) and the truck was more stable on landings, only had a bit of a loose feeling when powering on to the straight. Qualifyed 5th, on the first but, my PT did not register my laps.

For qualifyer #2 I desided to lower the inside camber links from the 7mm from the MOD to 4mm and unscrewed the rear shocks 3 turns out. Now the truck felt way more nutral and kept the rear end planted down the straight, qualifyed 3rd on this one after a couple of bad jumps off of one of the rutted jumps that would just spit you out if not taken on a very small still intact face of the takeoff.

Made the A and started 4th, (left the truck like for Q2 as I really like it), started 4th and was almost imediatelly collected by a big pilup and when the dust settled was mabe 9th. The truck felt even better than before (I was also getting used to the track that I had never run before or even seen), made my way up the field with very consistent laps and at the end finished 4th. so I was very happy with that. I must confess that after reading so much negative about the trucks performance outdoors, I was nervouse that I was going to not be competitive out there, but also thanks to some of the suggestions that I've read here I knew that I had some things to try. I had been looking at the Caster SCT and the Tekno just in case I could not handle the AE outdoor, but I will stick with it as I was right there with everyone else and this baby is dialed on the carpet track. Also, one of my friends who also runs a SC10 4X4 (but runs outdoors all the time) finished 2nd (runs the exotek chassis and hubs, I will give the hubs a try for the next one)

A results was: 1st-Losi (Track owner), 2nd- AE SC10 4X4, 3rd-Team C SC, 4th-AE SC10 4X4 (Me), 5th-Losi, 6th-Losi, dont remmember the rest there were 11 trucks running.

Has not really been discussed enough.

We have some who are misinformed confusing everyone concerning the 8mm C- hub Mod ...

Unless your outdoor track is med traction clay. Suggest using the standard kit hubs when outdoors for the best traction ...

driving me nuts
 

Hello there , in advance sorry for the long post.

Santa Gave me a SC10 4x4 FT for christmas, my last SC track and first RC was a slash 4x4, in wich I spent a lot of money but never felt comfortable with.

Anyway I built it , move the electronics, mmp, castle 3800 . and I just fell in love, what wonderful suspensions , handling, I missed the center diff, but was not so bad then ...

The rear diff started clicking, shim problem, I fixed with a rebuild kit and extra shim, but also noticed that the diffs always leaked, after like 5 packs. the maintenance process started to become a little bit painful, specially when you need like 8 hours for every practice day.

Then the upgrade process started, exotek chassi and front locker, Hotracing Aluminum diffs and idles, strc bellcrank and rear arm-mount, tenshock 4000k sensored motor, I spent like 12 hours just cleaning, disassembling and putting in the new parts.

I proved and spend another 6 hours trying to figure why the hell my rear trasmission was stuck, I meant not fully stuck , so I found the problem was that I over tighten the rear transmission case screws.

Finally to the track, the chassi and motor improvement fell really nice 1 pack, and totally lose the front traction, 4x2 mode. checked and front pulley and clicker just began to slide, I checked and pulley and clicker are alright , and I tried to over tighten the clicker but no luck.

So again I will need to spend another 4 or more hours disassembling the front.


So my point is I love the car, I love working on my RCs, but when you spend like 8 hours in maintenance and fixing for every 1 (or less) on the track, it just doesn't feel right (With my mugen eco it is just the opposite) .

Anyway I just want to express myself. btw I attached a few pictures.

mind did that when the gear on the front shaft or whatever its called came free. locked everything up in the front.

As for the +8mm mod ... Can't really be confused when you actually try it and see how it performs first hand. Is what it is, which is why anyone curious about it, give it an actual try and see.

indybobb: can you give your setup a try with the same settings, but without the riser on the hub and adjust the camber link position to same on the hub as the riser, as well as the middle position (assuming you are using the inner position) and report back?

Thanks Cain, you were right, the gear in the top shaft was out like 4 mm of the expected position. I locked it and also put some thread lock just in case. crap I really hate when this thinks happend.

You will really need a power driver to speed things up... I think most guys here are down to about 1/2 hour for diff swap (complete dis-assembly not required).

Ok thanks for the info! Did you try the 8mm mod with the m2c toe block together? I have both installed right now and was curious to try it at a big event next month. It will be an indoor large sized track and was hoping to improve rear traction.


I did forget to mention that I have the exotek rear hubs on now. According to the manual. You have to install 3mm of shims to the inner ball stud to achieve stock roll center.

I'm a big fan of the Exotec product and their support, but I would not be inclined to try the 8mm mod with their hubs because it will require 11mm of spacers underneath the ball stud (8mm + 3mm), and that's a lot of leverage. IMO, just asking too much of the ball stud under a bending load when you smack something.

Seen a bunch of posts on fixing the rear diffs. I blew out mine within a 1/2 a pack on my first run. This is on a FT SC10 4X4. AE was cool enough to send new sun gears.

I don't want to same thing to happen and read a ton of threads on this, but what is the correct way to build the diff? Build per factory manual and add limiters to the shocks? Do the limiters go inside the shock bodies or on the shafts near the bottom where the connect to the arms?

Should I use the factory inner shims again?

Thanks.

alloy vs plastic wheels
 

I didn't see your question answered so I will take a shot at it.

While adding an aluminum wheel would lower the center of gravity, it would have a negative effect on your suspension performance. It would increase the unsprung weight of your suspension and make the trucks suspension less active. The heavier your unsprung weight is relative to your sprung weight, the more the vehicle will want to deflect as opposed to the suspension deflecting (absorbing).

Hope this helps

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_mass

I have a friend at the local track that blew a rear diff and now when he puts the truck back together he is also noticing binding.

Sounds like the top shaft in the rear gear case is the most likely culprit? What exactly is happening? Missing one of the 91017 4X4 top
shaft spacers or is the splined portion of the shaft 'walking'? Any other things to look out for besides over tightening the gear case?

Subscribed! Just got.one if these and really want to know where you put the limiters as well.

one of those days
 

sofa you left me thinking about it, and it is true, I need like 25 mins to get to the transmission. duhhhhhhhh I can believed.....

Cain: unfortunately I thing I will need a new front top shaft, I tried to fix it but after a little while the gear just get free again.