Originally Posted by Jstall7543 (Post 11894644)

All I'm saying is that if you don't believe in the truck then it probably won't work out for you. All I run is tight indoor so I cant really relate to your outdoor experiance. Not to sound like a dumb @$ $ but I think the Ryans have proven the truck can be very competitive in any just about scenario. People seem to be looking to bash the reputaion of the the truck when clearly it's competition worthy or we wouldn't even be talking about it at all....thats all.

I just found one m2c 3300 toe block on ebay but it cost me almost $40 shipped.

Originally Posted by dirtbikekid33 (Post 11895256)

I have posted that I have had this truck for over a year now way before the center brace before the vts, don't say you tried the m2c block and your just giving up ok man . I have also read every page on this thread and seen the progression of this truck over the year and its all for the better. So don't say I didn't even try, I even machined 2 brass weights that fit under the servo that added 39 grams to each side bought 4 scales for this truck and got it perfectly balanced cross weight and im pretty close to 50-50 front and back. I have tried tons of spring and dampening combos on this truck not just what people on here say to do.

I love to race and im sure like everybody that does they race to win right so to only fight for a top 10 finish out of 20 trucks and probably 10 of them drive like idiots its kind of a slap in the face, im not saying im the best driver in the world or even the best and my track but I know my skills are in the top 4 and any day I can win if I race clean and them not so much.

There comes a time when your just fighting the machine when it doesn't fit the style or the limits that you want it to do, could just be me I don't know, but dont say I haven't tried to make this truck work for me.

Originally Posted by dirtbikekid33 (Post 11893445)

All I'm trying to say is yes the truck is fine on carpet yes the truck is fine on a tight indoor track with insane grip but in my case I have a huge blown outdoor track that I go to and the truck is not right at all to be fast like the other heavy trucks.

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11893504)

If you tried to raise the stud 8mm on the Exo hub it will be weak and perhaps the stud can snap off .
The only difference using I can see...

Originally Posted by CraigMBA (Post 11628913)

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11663748)

Sorry Guys , just don't have any appreciation for 2nd hand story's...

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry (Post 11893708)

For everyone ..
The advise I bring here ?
Comes not from me , not one bit of it ..:nod:

All comes from my Ae teammates , like BK , Scott Brown , John Walentia , ect.

Just what you guys to know my source for all the information I bring here.

Originally Posted by J-Fraz203 (Post 11893485)

What's the difference between the ft buggy c hub mod and the Excotek rear hubs spaced.

Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4 (Post 11793319)

I run 6mm of washers on my exotek hubs and 7mm on shock tower.
My Track Conditions
Indoors 40 degrees, wet, sticky, hard and as the day progresses the top layer will get softer. very technical medium sized to large layout, we run barcodes supersoft. Because my track is smooth and isn't very bumpy the 8mm mod won't have a huge difference but its still noticeable. Combined with M2C toe block 3.5 setting there is a performance increase.


Shark posted this on rcshortcourse about stock height for exotek hubs being +1mm the normal hubs height without washers post #363
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/t...10-4x4-19.html



post #351
http://www.rcshortcourse.com/forum/n...reply&p=283766
Exotek carrier on left (with 6mm of spacers) and stock carrier with B4 mod on right.
You can see with 6mm of washers the exotek ballstud is the same height as the b4 hub the original 8mm mod. so 6mm is what you need to replicate 8mm mod with exotek hubs



7mm of washers on the shock tower inside ballstud seems to be common but some guys like 5mm

Originally Posted by AE SC10 4X4 (Post 11795885)

I am told that the bumpier the track the more the 8mm mod works since my track is pretty smooth it isn't as noticeable as the M2C toe block but it can't hurt and with the exotek hubs







I didn't install anything, its a reference photo from shark on rc shortcourse, I even posted a link and # of the post :ha:
Either way even flipped the b4 hub would still be the same height for the ballstud height. But yes your right it is installed upside down. So lets not confuse people with bad info not pertaining to the matter at hand. Which is the ballstud height on the b4 hub for the 8mm mod being duplicated with 6mm of washer on the exotek rear hubs :deathstar


Why would I want the same camber location as the c-hub everyone that I know, that has done the 8mm mod hates the way the camber link sits with the b4 hub in front of rear shock spring as clearance is not very good, and prefer the clean angle allowed by exotek. The exotek allows more option for height and length of camber link so it has more tuning ability and its solid aluminum vs a thin piece of graphite anchored with 2 screws so it will take more abuse.

The b4 hub mod is a substandard design to the exotek rear hubs.

The ballstud being mounted (sideways) is more likely to snap off, being in weaker position to handle stress forces of a crash or hard landing and its on a thin piece of graphite held in place by 2 screws.
Its called gravity you can argue about it but pretty sure all of us know its the one thing pulling us down constantly besides bad tech :tire:


The exotek has solid aluminum construction and easy to tune design.
The exotek hubs geometry lets the ballstud sit on top of the block allowing the force of impact over bumps or landings to transfer thru the rear hub, the ballstud is in the optimum position to absorb the stress of impact, tranferring force downward by gravity into a solid block of aluminum and not at an awkward angle off a thin piece of graphite.

Exotek rear hubs are a better design that is superior to the b4 mod.
Even without the 8mm mod the exotek hubs are worth having just for easy tuning ability.
get info from actual owners
also with the exotek you can extend the camber link farther as the exotek front mounting hole is closer to the tire than any length you can gain with the b4 hub
http://i358.photobucket.com/albums/o...-44-03_636.jpg