Worth the serious money? That's subjective I guess. I use the diff & shock orings and the diaphragms. All work very well.
Shock seals have very low stiction, but I found I only went a couple days of driving before it gave a slight leak. I run stock on the bottom, TSR on top.. no leaks. To be fair though, I may have needed new cartridges or a better build. May try all TSR next oil change since shocks are all fresh new parts.
Diff orings seal better than stock.
The diaphragms I would say are worth it if you've ever had one go out at the track, it sucks if you can't get a spare. The material is much better.

Speed costs money, guess it's worth it to me

I don't find any of that stuff worth it 'to me'. But your comment does ring true. For ONCE. I have to 'WC' it and say that there's nothing wrong with the Factory Team gear that TSR is trying to replace; when used correctly, and also remain world class fast. That stuff looks awesome, but other than the bling, I am not interested.

Stuff certainly looks fantastic though.

The one that I think is worth it is the diaphragms. Don't know if you've had one go out or not but they do go sooner or later. The tsr material is that much better.
The rest, yeah, you could pass on it, won't make you any faster... but I hate leaks

I've had a tear, but it was only from my stupid fault of overtightening or: My personal favorite. running without bleeder caps and accidentally shooting the Air compressor straight down it. CA'POP! goes the bladder.

Nothing wrong with thicker bladders though, no doubt.

That's good news, the diaphragms are what I was "eyeing" the most. I have a much easier time and better quality build using bladders. I'm going to pick up a set for my buggy, since 4x4 comes with them. Do you use the foam insert behind bladder? Now that brings up one more question. I see a shock diaphragm set for associated 12mm b4.1 shocks. I don't know if this is for the soon to be released shocks or something else?? Almost seems to soon to have aftermarket parts out. One other thing I found interesting was they use outdrive shims to make up the slack in the 4x4 diff rebuild instead of the common practice of thicker or double sun gear shims. I wonder if this makes much difference. I think it would only reduce wobble, and not get the gear mesh tighter. Hmm I'll quit thinking and typing now. Thanks for the info.

Thanks. The obvious stuff is strc. The screws, washers and nuts come from hobby king, t-works RC (the best stuff), AsiaTees RC, and fasteners express (look up aluminum hardware), this place is a gold mine. Also a good place to get any quantity screws and nuts (1-100000) is acf fasteners. I started with my b4.1, seen below.

Are all this screws and so on also in blue available? and what did you pay for it?

Very nice SC10 4x4 and B4.1.

I did a similar thing but went subtle accents of gold hardware on my B4.1 and red hardware on my T4.1. Not a blue piece in sight! Got really tired of the overdose of AE blue (Like everyone else is running). It gives it a different look. I dig it. Seeing yours and I may freshen up my SC10 4x4 in the same way.

Here are some Pics of my drive-train. Do you see anything that could cause my cva-issues?
http://imgur.com/a/EDZFR#0

question on rear top shaft issue.

I picked up a used factory team SC10 4x4. used from the looks of it maybe twice, if all in a street driving setup.

The previous owner however cranked down the locknut for the VTS slipper and bent the top shaft.

I see there are two codes for what to replace it with, are both of them lightened?

Is there anything else I should look for that this issue would have damaged as well, in general?

I did use the foam, but I made a few changes all at once so I can't really comment on them. The next time I go out I will have more practice time to mess with it and will pull the foams and see if there is a difference in feel.

An email from TSR...

As for your questions regarding the diaphragm set adding soft diaphragms or foams will reduce the rebound effect within the shocks. Our sets allow the use of various settings ex: soft diaphragm / super soft pf insert in rear and soft diaphragm / soft pf in front.

The captured design just means the pressure foam fits within the diaphragm through slits in the bottom of the diaphragm. This design does not reflect any dampening effect just the style of diaphragm used.

We usually run a set up in short course similar to the one in the example above which adds a bit more pre-load to the front shocks while the rear is set soft as possible to improve traction.

There are different part numbers for the standard and lightened and then I believe there is also a coupled rear top shaft as well, so I think 3 part numbers for the rear top shaft 2 for the front.

Only one of them is lightened:

91016 = Standard Rear Top Shaft
91131 = Factory Team Lightened Rear Top Shaft
91180 = Rear Top Shaft for coupled slipper (91188)

Bent

thanks, will just pick up the lightened one, give it a tear down and see if there is any other damage.

Yes. Those parts are all worn out. There is so much lash (from wear) in the drive bone that the pin gets hammered and eventually fails.

Maybe the stub axle is salvageable, but if it were me, I wouldn't even try.

Did you run them dry (without lubrication)?