SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,250
If you're not going to run the coupled slipper hub why wouldn't you want the lighter option top shaft ?!?
I'v been running it in mine front and rear for more than a year now on high bite indoor clay and outdoor astro turf........not a single issue so far

Just recently replaced it with a new one during a total rebuild......not necessary at all as it showed no signs of wear or tweak.......but felt obligated to since I had been running it for over a year

Bent
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 447
From: Chicago
While racing last night, I was traction rolling real bad getting into the corners. My track is high bite wet clay. I'm running ProLine Suburbs MC compound on JConcepts Hazard wheels. I"m running the 8MM mod in the rear. I have 2.0 sway bars front and rear. 27.5wt blue front springs in the front / 32.5wt blue front springs in the rear. RCShox V2 center diff with 8 pins. 25MM ride height all around.
Any suggestions guys? Remove the 8MM Mod for indoor high bite track? Change springs?
I didn't have these issue at all while outdoors with truck setup the same way.
Any suggestions guys? Remove the 8MM Mod for indoor high bite track? Change springs?
I didn't have these issue at all while outdoors with truck setup the same way.
IMO.
While racing last night, I was traction rolling real bad getting into the corners. My track is high bite wet clay. I'm running ProLine Suburbs MC compound on JConcepts Hazard wheels. I"m running the 8MM mod in the rear. I have 2.0 sway bars front and rear. 27.5wt blue front springs in the front / 32.5wt blue front springs in the rear. RCShox V2 center diff with 8 pins. 25MM ride height all around.
Any suggestions guys? Remove the 8MM Mod for indoor high bite track? Change springs?
I didn't have these issue at all while outdoors with truck setup the same way.
Any suggestions guys? Remove the 8MM Mod for indoor high bite track? Change springs?
I didn't have these issue at all while outdoors with truck setup the same way.
Tech Master
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,250
If you don't plan on ever running the coupled slipper hub, I guess it's okay...but I can't see how having this particular part be lightened makes the truck perform better or be more durable ( in a really meaningful way compared to the effort it takes to change it).
IMO.
IMO.
While racing last night, I was traction rolling real bad getting into the corners. My track is high bite wet clay. I'm running ProLine Suburbs MC compound on JConcepts Hazard wheels. I"m running the 8MM mod in the rear. I have 2.0 sway bars front and rear. 27.5wt blue front springs in the front / 32.5wt blue front springs in the rear. RCShox V2 center diff with 8 pins. 25MM ride height all around.
Any suggestions guys? Remove the 8MM Mod for indoor high bite track? Change springs?
I didn't have these issue at all while outdoors with truck setup the same way.
Any suggestions guys? Remove the 8MM Mod for indoor high bite track? Change springs?
I didn't have these issue at all while outdoors with truck setup the same way.
I haven't tried the the 8mm mod yet. I would suggest 6 pins in the Center Diff.
Tech Regular
iTrader: (17)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 447
From: Chicago
Should I also try a smaller sway bar?
Looks like he is saying negative (-1.5) and to know that number I'm going out on a limb to say he has a gauge 
EDIT: I see in snafu's post it was originally 1.5 camber.
For sure drop the rear, a taller ride height will make the chassis roll more putting more bite in the rear tires. Dropping it, just like a ricer Honda will reduce chassis roll and the side bite in the tires.
Increasing negative camber will also keep the outside of the tire from biting in as hard if lower height in the rear doesn't help. But -1.5 should be sufficient, play with ride height, thicker sway bar, thicker oil, roll center... many different ways to reduce roll in the truck. Add stiffer spring rate to that list courtesy of Ryan.
To flash back a page or two, -1.5 with a camber gauge may not be -1.5 as well

EDIT: I see in snafu's post it was originally 1.5 camber.
For sure drop the rear, a taller ride height will make the chassis roll more putting more bite in the rear tires. Dropping it, just like a ricer Honda will reduce chassis roll and the side bite in the tires.
Increasing negative camber will also keep the outside of the tire from biting in as hard if lower height in the rear doesn't help. But -1.5 should be sufficient, play with ride height, thicker sway bar, thicker oil, roll center... many different ways to reduce roll in the truck. Add stiffer spring rate to that list courtesy of Ryan.
To flash back a page or two, -1.5 with a camber gauge may not be -1.5 as well
Last edited by fq06; 09-27-2012 at 07:14 PM.



5Likes