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Old 03-11-2012, 11:43 AM
  #18991  
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Originally Posted by MantisWorx
Even better than that would be to order some .062" lead sheet from Mcmaster and lay it down directly under the battery!!
I made a steel front skid plate that let me take the lead out if the chassis. About as low and centered left to right as you can get. So far it's working great.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:47 AM
  #18992  
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Originally Posted by FTsc104x4
I don't actually own the truck yet, placed my pre-order and anxiously awaiting its shipment. I don't currently run saddles but out of curiousity, what don't you like about them I've been considering going to them but would like to gets drivers opinions of them. Thanks, the help is really appreciated.
Having several vehicles, I dislike having a battery that only fits one vehicle. I do own a zx5 and it uses saddles. So I do have saddles readily available. It just bothers me, for no real reason.

I've hesitated on the saddle pack configuration because of this. I've been hoping something else would work. I'll have to give the in line a try.
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Old 03-11-2012, 11:58 AM
  #18993  
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Default CVA bone hits outdrive

Does anyone have a solution for this problem?
After using a brandnew SC10 4x4 for about 8 batterypacks I noticed some wear on the CVA bones (all 4), probably caused by hitting the outdrives when landing.

See wear inside red circle:


Can anyone tell how I can avoid this wearing?
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:02 PM
  #18994  
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use shock limiters
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:03 PM
  #18995  
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put one of the 2mm shock limiters on each shock, below the shock boot, and it will stop the issue
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:05 PM
  #18996  
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Default My First Attempt at shifting Stick Pack

My current attempt....
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-img_1265.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:09 PM
  #18997  
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Actually shifted it too far over to the motor side but thats due to the MMP being so damned big...lol! This is the first attempt....ProtoType....Hack.
Attached Thumbnails SC10 4x4 Thread-img_1256.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img_1261.jpg   SC10 4x4 Thread-img_1259.jpg  
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:17 PM
  #18998  
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
Actually shifted it too far over to the motor side but thats due to the MMP being so damned big...lol! This is the first attempt....ProtoType....Hack.
The nice thing is you can replace the center chassis for $10 if you mess it up.
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:18 PM
  #18999  
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Originally Posted by pakk
Having several vehicles, I dislike having a battery that only fits one vehicle. I do own a zx5 and it uses saddles. So I do have saddles readily available. It just bothers me, for no real reason.

I've hesitated on the saddle pack configuration because of this. I've been hoping something else would work. I'll have to give the in line a try.
I felt the same way at first, but noticed that I tended to use the same pack for the same truck most of the time anyway. Once I decided I wanted to keep the truck for a while I didn't mind buying the saddles.
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:21 PM
  #19000  
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Originally Posted by PastaBoyNY
Actually shifted it too far over to the motor side but thats due to the MMP being so damned big...lol! This is the first attempt....ProtoType....Hack.
You can releave the side of the chassis between the nerf bars and will have enough room to center the pack
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Old 03-11-2012, 12:52 PM
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If I were to do a center battery (and I'm not planning on it) I'd just offset it to the right enough to clear the speed control, particularly if I was going to run a 550 motor.

Certainly, it's a compromise, but it's so close to the center I doubt it changes the wheel weights or the L/R % very much. Most users are going to add some weight back anyway so it's not super critical. Just make sure you can still get your battery unplugged!
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:08 PM
  #19002  
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Originally Posted by CraigMBA
If I were to do a center battery (and I'm not planning on it) I'd just offset it to the right enough to clear the speed control, particularly if I was going to run a 550 motor.

Certainly, it's a compromise, but it's so close to the center I doubt it changes the wheel weights or the L/R % very much. Most users are going to add some weight back anyway so it's not super critical. Just make sure you can still get your battery unplugged!
Anywhere with in a 1/4" of center won't matter much. I actually found that with a 540 can you need the battery slightly left with the esc and receiver on the right. With a 550 dead center works best if you don't want to add weight to balance. That's with a MMP.
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:11 PM
  #19003  
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While mine was stll running I thought it was pretty well balanced with the stick pack and a 550 motor..but then again I'm new to the SC10..
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:28 PM
  #19004  
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Well AE took home the win in 2wd and 4wd at PNB.

Max Flurer is a great driver. Gotta find out what his setup was. the track was deeply bumpy and rutty and his truck was pretty much gliding over them. Dude is an awesome driver. He won every round in SCT.
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Old 03-11-2012, 01:33 PM
  #19005  
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Originally Posted by Oasis
While mine was stll running I thought it was pretty well balanced with the stick pack and a 550 motor..but then again I'm new to the SC10..
ICRC:

In box stock configuration, the LR/RR weights are pretty close (the LR is a little heavier) but the RF was like 5oz heavier than the LF.

Without adding back ballast somewhere in the LF, you wind up with a bunch of really crazy difference in shock preload to get the wheel weights right and then it jumps all wonky. If you just add 3oz to the LF corner of the chassis, you can get it really close.
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