Community
Wiki Posts
Search
Like Tree5Likes

SC10 4x4 Thread

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-29-2012 | 08:53 PM
  #16081  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 186
From: west allis,wi
Default

hey i wanted to know when using the two stage pistons from rcshox do u have to use the stock washers the sqaurish ones that go on the bottom of the stock pistons??? or do u only use the one washer for the top screw????
daderrtyone25 is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 09:22 PM
  #16082  
tom2tone's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (99)
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,849
Default

Ok so I just finished the build... finally

This is my first AE build and overall I'm pretty impressed. My only major gripe is that I felt some of the screws didn't tighten up all the way. Also I have a slight gap in the rear between the chassis and rear chassis plate.

I also have just a couple questions..

1. I saw on the first page to put just a dab of CA glue for the wheel hex pins. Is it also recommended for the CVA pins as well? Both of the CVA pins became loose when I was giving it throttle.

2. The drivetrain seems to be slightly bound up I did install the MTK clutch basket and three garodiscs. It drives ok but doesn't free wheel long before coming to a stop. When I manually push it back and forth there seems to be a slight drag. Is this normal?

Thanks in advance! I can't wait to get this baby on the track
tom2tone is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 09:28 PM
  #16083  
Wild Cherry's Avatar
Tech Legend
 
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Default

2tone


The belt is usually tight when brand new and will loosen up a bit after a few runs.
Wild Cherry is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 09:29 PM
  #16084  
hELllNino's Avatar
Tech Regular
iTrader: (6)
 
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 264
From: Palm Beach Gardens, FL
Default

Originally Posted by tom2tone
Ok so I just finished the build... finally

This is my first AE build and overall I'm pretty impressed. My only major gripe is that I felt some of the screws didn't tighten up all the way. Also I have a slight gap in the rear between the chassis and rear chassis plate.

I also have just a couple questions..

1. I saw on the first page to put just a dab of CA glue for the wheel hex pins. Is it also recommended for the CVA pins as well? Both of the CVA pins became loose when I was giving it throttle.

2. The drivetrain seems to be slightly bound up I did install the MTK clutch basket and three garodiscs. It drives ok but doesn't free wheel long before coming to a stop. When I manually push it back and forth there seems to be a slight drag. Is this normal?

Thanks in advance! I can't wait to get this baby on the track
did you install the ae blue metal hex adapters on it? if not, get them asap, as your wheels will come off, most likely during the best run you've ever had

also get serrated locknuts both items are really a necessity

also, if you are running a 550, the magnetic force in the motor is a lot stronger, and will not free wheel. ensure you did not over tighten the bolts that go through the rear gear case into the motor mounting plate. they don't need to be overly tightened. if over tightened, it will bind up the rear gear case
hELllNino is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 09:37 PM
  #16085  
tom2tone's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (99)
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,849
Default

Originally Posted by Wild Cherry
2tone


The belt is usually tight when brand new and will loosen up a bit after a few runs.
ok thanks.. good to know.

Originally Posted by hELllNino
did you install the ae blue metal hex adapters on it? if not, get them asap, as your wheels will come off, most likely during the best run you've ever had

also get serrated locknuts both items are really a necessity

also, if you are running a 550, the magnetic force in the motor is a lot stronger, and will not free wheel. ensure you did not over tighten the bolts that go through the rear gear case into the motor mounting plate. they don't need to be overly tightened.
I wasn't aware of the blue metal hex adapters. I'll have to look into that. I did buy the serrated locknuts and I'm running the tekin pro4 4000kv motor. I'll double check those screws as well. Thanks for the help!!
tom2tone is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 09:58 PM
  #16086  
IRM616's Avatar
Tech Master
iTrader: (29)
 
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 1,454
From: cali or Vegas
Default

Can I power up my yeahfan by splicing the wire or do i need to solder to bullets? (I run a direct power source) thanks
IRM616 is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 10:08 PM
  #16087  
discgolferlee's Avatar
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (43)
 
Joined: Jan 2010
Posts: 961
From: Adrian, Michigan
Default

Originally Posted by tom2tone
Ok so I just finished the build... finally

This is my first AE build and overall I'm pretty impressed. My only major gripe is that I felt some of the screws didn't tighten up all the way. Also I have a slight gap in the rear between the chassis and rear chassis plate.

I also have just a couple questions..

1. I saw on the first page to put just a dab of CA glue for the wheel hex pins. Is it also recommended for the CVA pins as well? Both of the CVA pins became loose when I was giving it throttle.

2. The drivetrain seems to be slightly bound up I did install the MTK clutch basket and three garodiscs. It drives ok but doesn't free wheel long before coming to a stop. When I manually push it back and forth there seems to be a slight drag. Is this normal?

Thanks in advance! I can't wait to get this baby on the track
double check your tranny screws. especially the front. their are 3 screws that are almost the same but one is longer and commonly placed in the wrong spot and it binds the clicker/pulley
BOTTOM OF PAGE 10 IN MANUAL
2 screws are 24mm and one is 26mm. same with back end of truck. make sure the 26mm is in the correct location or can cause binding
discgolferlee is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 11:03 PM
  #16088  
MantisWorx's Avatar
Tech Champion
iTrader: (28)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 5,955
Default

Originally Posted by daderrtyone25
hey i wanted to know when using the two stage pistons from rcshox do u have to use the stock washers the sqaurish ones that go on the bottom of the stock pistons??? or do u only use the one washer for the top screw????
instructions are on the website!
MantisWorx is offline  
Old 01-29-2012 | 11:30 PM
  #16089  
heavyjeffd's Avatar
Tech Elite
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Mar 2010
Posts: 2,805
Default

Well, i had my first race with the truck this weekend on a very fast indoor 1/8th scale track with a lot of big jumps. Didn't turn a wheel with it until I got there, lol.

First thoughts: It's not bad! Coming from the Losi (which is just a big heavy planted pig you can drive like an ebuggy with small shocks and tires), I appreciated how much more nimble this truck felt and how much better the steering was, especially the off power steering (the Losi plows like a barge).

I really didn't have to do much but adjust my driving style a little as the off-throttle over steer is a lot worse than the Losi, but fairly easy to get used to. I could probably correct it on the ESC honestly by allowing it to roll a little off throttle.

Holy crap I was under geared! The manual recommended a 12t pinion, that was WAY too small. I was getting murdered on the straight, probably close to a second a lap. I'm going to go to at least a 14t, my temps were low, so I'm not worried about that.

The setup I ran is pretty vanilla. 30wt AE all around, not sure which pistons (I bought the truck used) stock springs, middle on towers, inside on arms (needed more down travel)m 10k up front, 7k rear, triple garodisc and basket, locked clicker.

I'm actually pretty happy with the truck, i just need to add some weight to it down low and gear it up some. I may be getting the exotek chassis, seems like the way to go for rigidity and LCG.

Overall I took 6 in Open 4wd SC in a field of Pro's and Experts, so I'm pretty happy with that.
heavyjeffd is offline  
Old 01-30-2012 | 01:26 AM
  #16090  
Tech Regular
 
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
Default

My trucks running great, qualified 2nd, was in the top three all day after being turned around in the first corner, twice that happened so was off the back, way back, both times, I'm still running the CC 3800 with the SCT esc, still running great, most guys here now run RX8 pro 4 combo's, mine was all round faster on our large loose track, I run saddles side by side up front, light sway bars front and back, 25w front, 20w rear in shocks, stock springs and shocks, pinned, 2000 front diff, 3000 rear, stock slipper with HD pads, AKA Enduro's all round. Had 60g of weight behind saddles to try it and liked it. Truck turns almost to well so thinking of going to heavier front sway bar. One thing I did was go up in gearing from 20-93, (48 pitch) to 22-93, I don't have a temp gun, but I swear it ran even cooler, was only warm to touch after a race. Just thought i'd share my findings with you all, thanks for all the tips. BTW only two guys are still running the SC104X4 here, a few changed to Losi.
RossNZ is offline  
Old 01-30-2012 | 01:48 AM
  #16091  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
Default

I seen heaps about slipper upgrades but not sure on the actual problems experienced with the kit slipper. Does it overheat then slip more than needed?
I have the RTR 3500 Reedy motor and the slipper seems to be handling it ok so far.
roylo is offline  
Old 01-30-2012 | 04:48 AM
  #16092  
Farmer_John's Avatar
Tech Addict
iTrader: (3)
 
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 656
Default

Originally Posted by roylo
I seen heaps about slipper upgrades but not sure on the actual problems experienced with the kit slipper. Does it overheat then slip more than needed?
I have the RTR 3500 Reedy motor and the slipper seems to be handling it ok so far.
Here's the test.

Put a set of fresh pads in the slipper. Go run a qual or two. Pull the slipper apart. You'll notice they're shiny. When they're shiny, they fade. When they fade, suddenly you're not making features that your truck easily cleared at the start. You blame AE and write hate posts here on RC Tech.

Until I installed Garodiscs, I was scuffing my clutch pads between rounds. Haven't touched it since and won't until I install a center dif.

Just try it and let us know how it turns out!
Farmer_John is offline  
Old 01-30-2012 | 05:43 AM
  #16093  
Thomas P's Avatar
Tech Master
 
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,287
From: Sweden/Stockholm
Default

Originally Posted by tom2tone
Also I have a slight gap in the rear between the chassis and rear chassis plate.
tom, same for me..little to much for my taste, but overall, i like the kit, it was descent
Thomas P is offline  
Old 01-30-2012 | 06:10 AM
  #16094  
Tech Adept
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jan 2012
Posts: 242
Default

Hey guys quick question I just got a new associated 4x4 and was running a 22 with a mmp and a lrp vector 8.5 turn is this a good combo for my truck for a medium track? And will the mmp with a 550 motor like a 5.5 turn
T3tsaya is offline  
Old 01-30-2012 | 06:47 AM
  #16095  
tom2tone's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Member
iTrader: (99)
 
Joined: Dec 2008
Posts: 2,849
Default

Originally Posted by discgolferlee
double check your tranny screws. especially the front. their are 3 screws that are almost the same but one is longer and commonly placed in the wrong spot and it binds the clicker/pulley
BOTTOM OF PAGE 10 IN MANUAL
2 screws are 24mm and one is 26mm. same with back end of truck. make sure the 26mm is in the correct location or can cause binding
I do remember reading about this common problem. I'm pretty sure I paid attention but I'll double check. Thanks!





For those running an MMP, is it necessary to use boost? I pulled mine off of my 2wd slash and wasn't sure where I should start.

Last edited by tom2tone; 01-30-2012 at 08:44 AM.
tom2tone is offline  


Contact Us - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Terms of Service -

Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.