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Has anybody tried the MIP Bypass 1 kit or the Emulsion shock conversion and noticed a difference good or bad?

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

I use both. The mip I use indoor with 45wt and fast rebound and I like it . I couldnt use the MIP's on the 1/8 scale track. I was up to 85wt oil and couldnt stop the truck from bottoming out( they dont "pack" ).The MIP pistons are nice, and allow you to do some things that regular pistons wont. With 45 wt my truck has great dampening , and rebounds (im set up to bypass on rebound) like a shock with 20wt in it even when using the softest spring. You use much thicker oil with the MIP pistons. They have newer pistons that allow thinner oil , so if you compare set ups , just be aware you need to know which MIP piston they are using. I use the emulsion shocks outdoors with about 5mm of rebound and 32wt oil. I have had my best set ups with emulsion shocks , and I can build matching shocks faster without bladders. However , I am not good enough to declare one better then the other. This is just my personal experience so far .

tc5 man

Never tried the mip bypass but i am running my rear shocks emulsion can i tell the diffrence vs a bladder shock it seems to handle rougher outdoor tracks a little better than the bladder style .

Hamburglar

iTrader: (4)

Can you post your exact setup of what discs/what order you put them in please?

wittyname

iTrader: (4)

Sure , its MIP piston #4 , then on top of the piston is the green disc , the matte disc, a washer and the MIP nut. Total disc thickness is .10 . They (MIP) sell a brown disc thats .10 all by itself so you dont have to use two disc's.

Hamburglar

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, will have to try it out.

GomerPile2525

iTrader: (14)

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...0-525-obo.html

Just an FYI. Steal of a car. Price reduced. 460$ shipped. Look it up

NITROALM

[QUOTE=Darkgenerals;12497988]Well here are the photos, finally got a chance to take a couple of them. The truck turned out great with the BCE chassis.


Just after rebuilding the rear with new avid bearings and fixing a leaking diff.


Thanks DG, your build looks good .. Hope all has been going good on the track.
just let us know if you need any set up help

Mxtbag Racer

Greeetings to all

I am a relative noob to the modern world of RC. I have a few cars/trucks now and had several back in the 80's and 90's including a Gold Pan RC-10 Team Buggy that I am resurecting.

Been back in the hobby for about two years now with a car in nearly every category but SCT and Crawler. I just picked up a TEN-SCTE.

Here is the stuff I have for it so far:

Rolling Chassis w/TLR Tuning Kit
Hitec HS-5585MH
Novak Havoc Pro SC Brushless ESC w/X-Drive
Ballistic 550 Motor (4.5T) included 14 tooth mod 1 pinion
Removed grease from the Diffs and am running 5/5/3 for Diff fluid
King Headz Center Differential Front Upright w/Dual Bearing
King Headz Motor Mount w/Dual Bearing
King Headz Center Diff Telemetry RPM Mount
70C 5000 mAh 2S LiPo
Spectrum Radio with Telemetry

I plan on running this way for a while to get used to the truck but was wondering what hop ups i should look at. I have seen the MIP chassis kit which seems like a good idea to get the weight back a little and more balanced. Mostly wondering about shocks and stuff to make sure it rides well.

I am not too versed on the bypass or emusion shocks which is better etc or what makes them all that different.

Thanks to anyone who has any suggestions.

silveraider14

iTrader: (6)

I run the mil bypass 1 shock pistons. I don't really know what they do but I like them on the indoor tracks outdoor not so much. I am running 37.5 front and 35 rear. Orange site springs in back and stock up front.

tc5 man

Sounds good what chassis are you running ? I run the TLR chassis its a lot better than the stock one for sure ! I actually ran 5,7,3 i did not like the 5k in the center much i think it depends on how much torque your motor has and what feel you like.

I just got a MIP chassis in a trade and i have not tried it yet outdoors but i tried out a guy i race with. MIP SCTE indoor and outdoor and it feels similar to the 2.0 SCTE but lighter and more nimble.

But i would go for it changes the truck big time ! Im using the TLR shock towers not the MIP towers, you dont need the MIP steering turnbuckles if your using the TLR towers.



As for shocks i have my Rear shocks Emousion style with the bleeder caps and the Front shocks with the Bladder . Can i tell a diffrence between them kind of but not a hugh diffrence , other than the Emousion style handle the rough a little better.

I would get a higher mah 2s cell lipo though like a 6000mah 50c or higher if you plan on racing.


Silver: What piston holes do you use for the Orange Rear springs i tried 3 hole piston and 27 1/2 shock oil i just did not like the feel of them . I always went back to the Silver black springs Front and Rear.

silveraider14

iTrader: (6)

I run the mip pistons and the orange is one step softer than the silver. i dont remember much else about what setup of the different color i am using for the mip pistion tho. its been sitting all summer so i just re did oils and that's about it

herK

Hello!

Can anybody meassure the original battery tray please? Is a 2x2S (~52mmx140mm) battery pack fits into it (without inner reducers)?
I'm also interested the battery tray's bottom screw holes. I did not find a bottom picture in google...

Thank you

kazuaki

iTrader: (35)

The tray is about 165mm long. The width is about 47mm with the foam padding on the sides. If you remove the foam, it would be about 52-53mm wide. Here's a picture of the bottom:



Hope that helps.

vivasRC

iTrader: (1)

Just got back into R/C about a month ago.

I picked up a Ten-SCTE 2.0 roller a couple weeks ago and am having some problems with the steering. Installed my electronics (RX8 Gen2, and a Savox 1258tg servo) At first I thought something was seriously wrong with the 1258tg because of the annoying sound it made, but after some searching and reading apparently that's normal.

My real issue is that it seems like the steering is binding up somewhere. I can't see where. Nothing is rubbing or touching any of the steering linkage. It will turn fine when it's on my work bench with the wheels off the ground. When I put it on the wheels, it will turn ok for the first few turns, then it starts to bind up and will not turn left at all. I pick it up off the ground, turn it a few times left and right and it free's up and turns normal again. Set it back down to run, and the same things happens. It locks up in the right steering direction. Any clues to what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.