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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 09-11-2013, 07:42 AM
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Originally Posted by vivasRC
Just got back into R/C about a month ago.

I picked up a Ten-SCTE 2.0 roller a couple weeks ago and am having some problems with the steering. Installed my electronics (RX8 Gen2, and a Savox 1258tg servo) At first I thought something was seriously wrong with the 1258tg because of the annoying sound it made, but after some searching and reading apparently that's normal.

My real issue is that it seems like the steering is binding up somewhere. I can't see where. Nothing is rubbing or touching any of the steering linkage. It will turn fine when it's on my work bench with the wheels off the ground. When I put it on the wheels, it will turn ok for the first few turns, then it starts to bind up and will not turn left at all. I pick it up off the ground, turn it a few times left and right and it free's up and turns normal again. Set it back down to run, and the same things happens. It locks up in the right steering direction. Any clues to what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
G'day!

Firstly, just in case you don't know about it, there is actually an SCTE 2.0 thread that has taken over unless it is 1.0 specific.

With the steering binding, I encountered a similar problem the other day with a mate's SCTE. Try disconnecting the servo-arm so that you can manually attempt to free-swing the steering. It should move easily with no resistance or binding. The servo (now not connected to the steering) should also be able to move freely.

You may find that the top screw into the servo saver (the right hand side pillar thing) could possibly be too tight and prevent freedom of action. You can't necessarily detect this when you have the servo connected (especially a super-torque one like the 1258TG) because it can overcome a lot of resistance. By disconnecting the servo you can truly see that there is no resistance at all.

If that is not the case, then try disconnecting each tie-rod from the ackerman and seeing if the left or right wheel is causing any binding.
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Old 09-11-2013, 08:45 AM
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Originally Posted by vivasRC
Just got back into R/C about a month ago.

I picked up a Ten-SCTE 2.0 roller a couple weeks ago and am having some problems with the steering. Installed my electronics (RX8 Gen2, and a Savox 1258tg servo) At first I thought something was seriously wrong with the 1258tg because of the annoying sound it made, but after some searching and reading apparently that's normal.

My real issue is that it seems like the steering is binding up somewhere. I can't see where. Nothing is rubbing or touching any of the steering linkage. It will turn fine when it's on my work bench with the wheels off the ground. When I put it on the wheels, it will turn ok for the first few turns, then it starts to bind up and will not turn left at all. I pick it up off the ground, turn it a few times left and right and it free's up and turns normal again. Set it back down to run, and the same things happens. It locks up in the right steering direction. Any clues to what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

You may also want to check the screws on the ackerman link. If too loose they will hit , if too tight they can bind . Check all the screws that pivot , make sure none are so tight they are binding.
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Old 09-11-2013, 10:34 AM
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Originally Posted by vivasRC
Just got back into R/C about a month ago.

I picked up a Ten-SCTE 2.0 roller a couple weeks ago and am having some problems with the steering. Installed my electronics (RX8 Gen2, and a Savox 1258tg servo) At first I thought something was seriously wrong with the 1258tg because of the annoying sound it made, but after some searching and reading apparently that's normal.

My real issue is that it seems like the steering is binding up somewhere. I can't see where. Nothing is rubbing or touching any of the steering linkage. It will turn fine when it's on my work bench with the wheels off the ground. When I put it on the wheels, it will turn ok for the first few turns, then it starts to bind up and will not turn left at all. I pick it up off the ground, turn it a few times left and right and it free's up and turns normal again. Set it back down to run, and the same things happens. It locks up in the right steering direction. Any clues to what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.



Three things to look at. the steering post sometimes rubs the servo case and servo saver,. make sure you red lock tite the servo saver . if so grind it down to clear. 2nd. check you end points on radio. if you turning and binding you might be hitting the screw on the servo and it could be getting caught on the the arm on the servo. 3rd if when its on the ground try and see if it still binds make sure links arnt hitting wheels and tires. after that next thing would be a bad servo.. sometimes they do make bad ones that hang up. I personally dont like savox. hitech or spectrum are my choice. JMO good luck
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:07 AM
  #45634  
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Originally Posted by kazuaki
The tray is about 165mm long. The width is about 47mm with the foam padding on the sides. If you remove the foam, it would be about 52-53mm wide. Here's a picture of the bottom:

Hope that helps.
Thank you very much!
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Old 09-12-2013, 05:02 PM
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I need some help with gearing. I have a lrp 5.5 550 and a novak kinetic esc. I run on a big outdoor tracks. i need some gearing suggestions
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Old 09-13-2013, 07:52 AM
  #45636  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
Sounds good what chassis are you running ? I run the TLR chassis its a lot better than the stock one for sure ! I actually ran 5,7,3 i did not like the 5k in the center much i think it depends on how much torque your motor has and what feel you like.

I just got a MIP chassis in a trade and i have not tried it yet outdoors but i tried out a guy i race with. MIP SCTE indoor and outdoor and it feels similar to the 2.0 SCTE but lighter and more nimble.

But i would go for it changes the truck big time ! Im using the TLR shock towers not the MIP towers, you dont need the MIP steering turnbuckles if your using the TLR towers.



As for shocks i have my Rear shocks Emousion style with the bleeder caps and the Front shocks with the Bladder . Can i tell a diffrence between them kind of but not a hugh diffrence , other than the Emousion style handle the rough a little better.

I would get a higher mah 2s cell lipo though like a 6000mah 50c or higher if you plan on racing.


Silver: What piston holes do you use for the Orange Rear springs i tried 3 hole piston and 27 1/2 shock oil i just did not like the feel of them . I always went back to the Silver black springs Front and Rear.
Sorry I didn't get back very fast been really busy at work.

Thank you everyone for the information on things to do. I am surely going to go over to the MIP chassis. I did notice the truck was a little bouncy in the front end with the stock setup for shocks. I have the vent caps from the TLR kit installed but no other tuning.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:34 AM
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Originally Posted by vivasRC
Just got back into R/C about a month ago.

I picked up a Ten-SCTE 2.0 roller a couple weeks ago and am having some problems with the steering. Installed my electronics (RX8 Gen2, and a Savox 1258tg servo) At first I thought something was seriously wrong with the 1258tg because of the annoying sound it made, but after some searching and reading apparently that's normal.

My real issue is that it seems like the steering is binding up somewhere. I can't see where. Nothing is rubbing or touching any of the steering linkage. It will turn fine when it's on my work bench with the wheels off the ground. When I put it on the wheels, it will turn ok for the first few turns, then it starts to bind up and will not turn left at all. I pick it up off the ground, turn it a few times left and right and it free's up and turns normal again. Set it back down to run, and the same things happens. It locks up in the right steering direction. Any clues to what is causing this? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I had a problem very similar to this, I had run my servo saver to loose and it caused the plastic parts to get worn. It would get hung up and not return to the normal position. When I had the car on the bench steering appeared good, but when I was doing fast turns the steering would basically get really weak. It was the servo saver flex and hanging up to much.

I would really recommend replacing and greasing the plastic parts in the saver if your having any kind of problems with them. Thank full a set is only 8 bucks or something like that, and check your servo saver from time to time.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96
I need some help with gearing. I have a lrp 5.5 550 and a novak kinetic esc. I run on a big outdoor tracks. i need some gearing suggestions
Seems like every system I have used in my scte likes 13t or
14t pinions.
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Old 09-13-2013, 08:50 AM
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Originally Posted by silveraider14
I run the mil bypass 1 shock pistons. I don't really know what they do but I like them on the indoor tracks outdoor not so much. I am running 37.5 front and 35 rear. Orange site springs in back and stock up front.
Thank You.

From what I've read it seems you can have bypass shocks either bypass on the compression side or on the rebound side depending on the way they are installed. I am running straight stock right now for my shocks except putting the vent caps on. Just bashing around the house the front seems a little bouncy. I don't have any track time on it yet will be going Saturday morning.

Last edited by Mxtbag Racer; 09-13-2013 at 09:55 AM.
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Old 09-13-2013, 10:36 AM
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Originally Posted by armandc
Thank You.

From what I've read it seems you can have bypass shocks either bypass on the compression side or on the rebound side depending on the way they are installed. I am running straight stock right now for my shocks except putting the vent caps on. Just bashing around the house the front seems a little bouncy. I don't have any track time on it yet will be going Saturday morning.
fwiw .. Most of the MIP setups that are successful are using the bypass feature on rebound. Valves on top of the piston .
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Old 09-13-2013, 12:24 PM
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Originally Posted by silveraider14
king headz chassis with I think tlr braces bit not the torque rod. ape rc battery tray! I have close to 50/50 weight a little reward weight for more traction.
This thread is crazy long and finding this you have read is getting very dificult, even with the search tool, so I'm going to ask anyways. I'm running the same gear, what setup are you using? Anyone running a 2.0 setup with their King Heads?
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Old 09-13-2013, 02:03 PM
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Originally Posted by 19_mustang_96
I need some help with gearing. I have a lrp 5.5 550 and a novak kinetic esc. I run on a big outdoor tracks. i need some gearing suggestions
Start with 15 or 16.
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Old 09-13-2013, 03:11 PM
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Originally Posted by Adonis_mp
This thread is crazy long and finding this you have read is getting very dificult, even with the search tool, so I'm going to ask anyways. I'm running the same gear, what setup are you using? Anyone running a 2.0 setup with their King Heads?
When I upgraded to the 2.0, I transferred the kingz heads motor mount and brace over from the 1.0. So far, no issues after an entire season of hard racing. I took apart the center diff this week to clean after two months of racing and the diff still feels smooth and doesn't have any leaks. The dual bearings per side which were included with the kingz heads stuff still have their original lube in them and are butter smooth. I bought them 8 months ago and have never torn them apart for cleaning. I just remove them once in a while and wipe them down with a paper towel.

I had originally bought the kingz heads stuff because I kept wiping bearings in the original 1.0. I heard this issue was fixed in the 2.0, but the kingz heads stuff fits so I figured... why not install it? So far I am pleased with the results.
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Old 09-15-2013, 04:32 PM
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I just picked mine up... it was used and a good price. Looks like it has the TLR light weight chassis and some different battery tray. I know i dont have a ton of the bling parts yet, but its a project for me to learn the 4wd.

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Old 09-15-2013, 05:50 PM
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That's the APE battery tray. Nice stuff. http://www.ape-rc.com/
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