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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

Old 08-29-2013, 11:34 AM
  #45601  
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Originally Posted by tc5 man
I just run my Front toe at 0 degrees seems to turn fine on my truck grated Im using the 1.0 TLR chassis. It is hard to get the equal amount of Front toe out or in doing it by eye especially if you have a decent amount of slop in the steering links.

Dropping the Front link down on the tower seemed to help with getting more turn in and camber.
Thankfully right now I just installed HA balls and new rod ends so everything is still decently tight. The front and rear links according to the setup sheet are already on the lower outer camber hole.
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
I will try and post pics tonight but swapping over to the new BCE chassis is a breeze so far. I would say picking up the 2.0 servo mount is a good idea, the 1.0 parts work but everything is very close.

I also found out that my rear losi carbon fiber shock tower is starting to crack. I let my wife drive it after the race, and she had some pretty good wrecks. The crack is only half way through some of the layers, So it may never fully crack. (Hopefully)

ask a favor of some one running 1 degree of toe out and the long ackermann arm, would you mind measuring your steering links with a caliper and give me a measurement.

Currently I'm setting the truck up to the ryan dunford 2.0 setup and using the 2.0 kit instructions for the length of the steering links. I think is gives 2 degrees of toe out.

I now its varies between truck, that I can agree with but I do not have a setup station so actually measuring the toe is a little bit hard. Unless some one has a quick guide they can point me towards.
The link lengths are way off in the manual. Make sure you build both links the same length on the bench and install them. Then make equal adjustments on the car until you get the desired toe in setting. Roll the car foward slightly when looking at toe to get a more accurate view of what the toe really is.
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Old 08-29-2013, 12:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Casper
The link lengths are way off in the manual. Make sure you build both links the same length on the bench and install them. Then make equal adjustments on the car until you get the desired toe in setting. Roll the car foward slightly when looking at toe to get a more accurate view of what the toe really is.
thank you for the tip, I picked up a caliber and used the 98.5mm. (I think) to get what the kit says is the right toe but it does look to far toed out. I may run it at no toe in or out. on the stock chassis I was running close to 1 degree of toe in and the truck felt good. Not sure how I would like to run toe out.
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Old 08-29-2013, 07:46 PM
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Well here are the photos, finally got a chance to take a couple of them. The truck turned out great with the BCE chassis.



Just after rebuilding the rear with new avid bearings and fixing a leaking diff.



This the finished truck, just have to set the ride height and do a break in run.



This is the cracked rear shock tower, it goes through about half of the layers. Its not a full crack just what looks to be the layers coming apart.

Only thing left to buy is a rear shock spring set, a long sensor wire, and a mod 1 14 tooth pinion.
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Old 08-29-2013, 09:03 PM
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Guys with the MIP conversion on the 1.0 i have a question . Amain has the MIP steering turnbuckle kit on order.

And im going to run the TLR carbon towers on it can i use the stock SCTE steering turnbuckles/ rod ends ? I dont think they will bind up with the TLR carbon Front tower.

I know the MIP towers are diffrent and thats why i think the stock Steering turnbuckles /rods would bind up .
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Old 08-29-2013, 11:14 PM
  #45606  
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Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
Well here are the photos, finally got a chance to take a couple of them. The truck turned out great with the BCE chassis.



Just after rebuilding the rear with new avid bearings and fixing a leaking diff.



This the finished truck, just have to set the ride height and do a break in run.



This is the cracked rear shock tower, it goes through about half of the layers. Its not a full crack just what looks to be the layers coming apart.

Only thing left to buy is a rear shock spring set, a long sensor wire, and a mod 1 14 tooth pinion.
The rear tower will break. Carbon fiber is strong until theres a crack. You can try to save it for a while with lots of CA. Put some glue then baking soda. Put glue on top, repeat.
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Old 08-30-2013, 06:15 AM
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Originally Posted by nanoverse
The rear tower will break. Carbon fiber is strong until theres a crack. You can try to save it for a while with lots of CA. Put some glue then baking soda. Put glue on top, repeat.
What about some CA followed by some friberglass tape and shoe goo over the top? If you roughed up the surface and put some on both sides would that hold it together a little longer?
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:12 AM
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Best bet is to spend the time replacing the tower, because you will be doing it sooner or later anyway.

Last edited by wittyname; 08-30-2013 at 02:15 PM. Reason: spelling
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Old 08-30-2013, 10:00 AM
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Originally Posted by wittyname
Best bet is to spend the time replacing the tower, becasue you will be doing it sooner or later anyway.


+1
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Old 08-31-2013, 07:41 AM
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thank you for all the info, Ill probly skip on attempting to fix it and just drive the truck untill it breaks. I have no plans of racing any time soon just good practice days. So it wont be a big deal when it does break, not during a a-main.
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Old 08-31-2013, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Darkgenerals
thank you for all the info, Ill probly skip on attempting to fix it and just drive the truck untill it breaks. I have no plans of racing any time soon just good practice days. So it wont be a big deal when it does break, not during a a-main.
Buy one now so u have it when it goes...
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Old 09-01-2013, 04:52 AM
  #45612  
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Do the big bore shocks from the scte 2 fit the scte 1? I would like to improve my shocks so would this be the best solution?
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Old 09-01-2013, 09:40 AM
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Originally Posted by reo
Do the big bore shocks from the scte 2 fit the scte 1? I would like to improve my shocks so would this be the best solution?
Shocks are identical other than the color (hard coat) so nothing would really improve just by switching shocks.

It all depends on the oil, piston and spring package that determines how good the shocks work.

What exactly are you trying to improve?
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Old 09-01-2013, 11:06 AM
  #45614  
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I was thinking that the scte 2 would have larger "big bore " shocks like like many others make them larger when they upgrade like the B44.2 did.
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Old 09-02-2013, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by reo
I was thinking that the scte 2 would have larger "big bore " shocks like like many others make them larger when they upgrade like the B44.2 did.


Not needed what so ever, The HA version's of the shocks are the BOMB!!!! they dont leak they dont need rebuilding every other week and they provide the proper amount of dampening required for the size of the truck.
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