jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Now explain how many mm of shims goes into each shock . For a base line setti.g

rctrucker2

I am trying to locate the part number for these screws but an not exactly sure which ones you are suggesting to use. Are you referring to part number A6278 which are the 5/40 x 1/2 button head screws?

Thanks for help on this

RC_Woody

jlfx,
Most people on here are running for off-road at full droop, and some even further - plus "2 turns out" Meaning lengthening the shock even further.
Now I don't have the numbers on the exact measurements on what 2 turns out is, but search back about no more than about 10-15 pages and there was some discussion.

So to answer your question, most people start with a baseline of of full droop Meaning droop screws removed or backed out so far they never touch the chassis.

Of course if you are running carpet or something, then yes you might want to find a different baseline.

Take a look at probably the most common baseline setup:
http://www.losi.com/ProdInfo/Files/L...ford-02_12.pdf

FLHX1550

iTrader: (11)

If you look on the team setup sheets, they list droop as "100mm" (or whatever) that is the length of the shock from the center of the eye on the top, to the center of the eye on the bottom.

Droop screws are too inconsistent (they move, get dirt stuck between them and the chassis).

I myself run no limiters, and will turn the rear shock eyelets out 1 or 2 turns depending on conditions.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

Droop screws are ok as along as you have the inserts in the chassis. If you use the alum chassis as a stop then you dig in holes and it changes. Yeah if you race in wet loose condtions you can get dirt in there but not aways. I agree shock length can be better but droop screws can be very convienent if you drive in many different coniditions.

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

Good idea. I'll give that a try!

Josey Wales

iTrader: (12)

thats great. You deserve a pat on the back

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

How strong is the point between the cf plate and the alunimumfront part of the chassis seems like only being 3mm thick it wiuld be a stressful area

rcgod

iTrader: (33)

I agree it looks like it could be a weak point. Probably.why extreme recommends always running the front losi brace in addition to the top plate.

RC_Woody

Not really a SCTE question but relevant...
So saw a guy at the track last week who had a Losi 8eight(not sure if 1.0 or 2.0)

I compared the wheel base to my SCTE and it was darn near identical, at least very close. (kinda makes you wonder why SCTE is called a 1/10th scale)

My question is about motor:
Why are people running the Tekin T8's(and similar) with low KV's(lot of torque) vs something like the Pro4 3300/4000/ 4600(and similar 4 pole)?

Is the buggy that much heavier? I wouldn't think it would be unless maybe due to the tires?

Edit: I realize that typically 1/8 scale runs 3s-6s, which needs a lower KV motor, but are more cells for a longer run time?

goehm

iTrader: (45)

I'm not a fan because, while it gives consistent shock extension, anytime you adjust your shock locations you have to then also rebuild your shocks.

FLHX1550

iTrader: (11)

Thus far I have not run a limiter at all.

The original question I was answering was in regards to the droop screws. I myself run full droop, and have the screws in, about 1/4 turn from touching the inserts just to give the screw something to hit when they flex

BlackStarRacing

iTrader: (40)

Tires:

Are you guys running all four of the same tire or are you mixing the tires from front to rear? If so on loose clay would you place the a higher nub or smaller nub tire on the front vs the rear?

Thanks

jlfx car audio

iTrader: (37)

Ive actualy took some droop out of mine and it seemed to respond better to steering input and also didnt get as loose off power

chucko

iTrader: (3)

In answer before you edited my 8 E on the ground is at 8 lb 1.6 oz my scte on ground 6 lb 9.8 oz sorry if I took so long answering I had to get the scale out lol