Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
4x4 naturally tend to nose dive..especially if you are used to driving 2wd and let off at the top of the jump. Do you have your battery in the furthest back position? do you have the Black front, Orange rear springs? Or at least firmer springs in the front that in the rear?
If you have stock...
Not saying it wont effect your steering handling because it will and that is another discussion..., so just for jumps... adjusting your springs and/or oil weight can have an effect,combined with thottle control. Anti squat could effect as well, but wont go into that. Its all about how you approach and release from the jump/bump.
The basic concept is you want your rear end to sag more or quicker than the front (causing the front to be higher) or you want a quicker rebound in the front.(quicker spring in the front will keep your nose up)
So depending your ride height, first thing I would do if I was on the track racing for a quick fix, is lower the rear end i.e. move the shock collars up so your springs are not as compressed. This however is for a minor adjustment. It might be just enough though.
I haven't heard of anybody running lower than a 27mm ride height, so I wouldn't lower your rear end much more than that using the spring collars.
if you have done all that already, on your throttle control, are you applying constant throttle over the jump? If so, then try giving a little extra blip of throttle right at the top(idea is to get your rear end to sag a little more)
If you are have time and can adjust your oil(thicker front or lower rear).
Stock is 30wt all around. Generally its more so with 2wd drive, but typically the front is a little heavier weight oil in the front than in the back. On a 4wd usually its more even, most don't go much different that 2.5wt difference from front to back.
So there are some ideas, give us a little more info and we might be able to help you out more.
Woody
If you have stock...
Not saying it wont effect your steering handling because it will and that is another discussion..., so just for jumps... adjusting your springs and/or oil weight can have an effect,combined with thottle control. Anti squat could effect as well, but wont go into that. Its all about how you approach and release from the jump/bump.
The basic concept is you want your rear end to sag more or quicker than the front (causing the front to be higher) or you want a quicker rebound in the front.(quicker spring in the front will keep your nose up)
So depending your ride height, first thing I would do if I was on the track racing for a quick fix, is lower the rear end i.e. move the shock collars up so your springs are not as compressed. This however is for a minor adjustment. It might be just enough though.
I haven't heard of anybody running lower than a 27mm ride height, so I wouldn't lower your rear end much more than that using the spring collars.
if you have done all that already, on your throttle control, are you applying constant throttle over the jump? If so, then try giving a little extra blip of throttle right at the top(idea is to get your rear end to sag a little more)
If you are have time and can adjust your oil(thicker front or lower rear).
Stock is 30wt all around. Generally its more so with 2wd drive, but typically the front is a little heavier weight oil in the front than in the back. On a 4wd usually its more even, most don't go much different that 2.5wt difference from front to back.
So there are some ideas, give us a little more info and we might be able to help you out more.
Woody
Daryl
Thanks guys for the input!
yeah I guess my jest was hard to read from my post. I have been meaning to look at your setup and when I did, its very similar to Lane's, I think both will get your in the ball park. However one thing I did notice for people copying others setup is Lane's has 2.5 toe-in in the rear. Correct me if I'm wrong but you can only do that if you have the Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holder Set [LOSB4113].
so you are right your setup is probably more out of the box friendly.
Might be useful to post if you want to do Dunford setup you at min:
Losi Piston Pack [LOSB2909]
Losi Rear Shock Spring Tuning Set [LOSB2963]
Losi Front Shock Spring Tuning Set [LOSB2959]
Losi Silicone Differential Fluid (5,000cs) [LOSA5280]
Losi Silicone Differential Fluid (3,000cs) [LOSA5279]
Losi Certified Shock Fluid (30wt) [LOSA5224] (dont need if you don't plan on re-doing your oil anytime soon - stock is 30wt)
Losi Silicone Shock Oil (27.5wt) [LOSA5214]
Sway Bars(can use stock, but I believe they need to be switched to opposite ends)
So Basically a Piston Pack, front and rear springs, your fluids and you can do exactly Dunford setup from box stock.
Lanes I believe you also need:
Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holder Set [LOSB4113] ( to get the rear 2.5 toe in)
1 more thing of diff fluid (7,000cs) for the front diff
But I agree with you Ryan.
so you are right your setup is probably more out of the box friendly.
Might be useful to post if you want to do Dunford setup you at min:
Losi Piston Pack [LOSB2909]
Losi Rear Shock Spring Tuning Set [LOSB2963]
Losi Front Shock Spring Tuning Set [LOSB2959]
Losi Silicone Differential Fluid (5,000cs) [LOSA5280]
Losi Silicone Differential Fluid (3,000cs) [LOSA5279]
Losi Certified Shock Fluid (30wt) [LOSA5224] (dont need if you don't plan on re-doing your oil anytime soon - stock is 30wt)
Losi Silicone Shock Oil (27.5wt) [LOSA5214]
Sway Bars(can use stock, but I believe they need to be switched to opposite ends)
So Basically a Piston Pack, front and rear springs, your fluids and you can do exactly Dunford setup from box stock.
Lanes I believe you also need:
Adjustable Rear Hinge Pin Holder Set [LOSB4113] ( to get the rear 2.5 toe in)
1 more thing of diff fluid (7,000cs) for the front diff
But I agree with you Ryan.
Sway Bars:
So stock is 2.0mm in the rear and 1.8 in the front.
I said previously that you could just switch them. Both setups state a 1.8 rear and a 2.0 in the front.
Well I went to do this myself today and realized that the front and rear sway bars are different widths and you can't just switch them.
So an additional part if you want to do Dunford or Lane setup is the optional sway bar kit... part #LOSB2222
Woody
Thanks Woody great info much needed.... It was the first time out I'm going to rebuild the shocks and diffs....i run at Mills Pond and Coral Springs you can see these tracks on youtube tell me whats a good shock fluid F/R and diffs F/C/R thanks for the info....
Daryl
I do have the protek body that has the vents...im going to next time I'm out try hitting the throttle at the highest point, i think i was hitting it a bit lat but there were some times i got and she rolled so smoothly down the back end of the jump....need to master that! lol
Thanks guys for the input!
Daryl
I do have the protek body that has the vents...im going to next time I'm out try hitting the throttle at the highest point, i think i was hitting it a bit lat but there were some times i got and she rolled so smoothly down the back end of the jump....need to master that! lol
Thanks guys for the input!
Hope that helps some to gauge. I live up in the Pacific Northwest, so Coral Springs is a little far for me . I will take a look though and see if I can see anything.
Tech Elite
iTrader: (110)
I;m putting my ervo saver back together and want to know how far you run the blue nut up? How much thread should be showing on the bottom of it?
Typically about 2 threads should be showing. Remember to loctite it!!! Even if you just have blue, do it and save you some headache later.
Tech Master
iTrader: (13)
I am wondering what pistons you get in the piston pack LOSB2909? And do you buy one or two of these packs?
Tech Master
iTrader: (40)
I kinda work towards being able to with a mild/mid size jump being able to constant throttle through it and land flat, obviously if all your jumps are steep, big MoFo's then that wont work. But a mid size jump I should be able to land fairly flat with constant throttle, and then adjust my thottle control based on the bigger jumps.
Hope that helps some to gauge. I live up in the Pacific Northwest, so Coral Springs is a little far for me . I will take a look though and see if I can see anything.
Hope that helps some to gauge. I live up in the Pacific Northwest, so Coral Springs is a little far for me . I will take a look though and see if I can see anything.
Daryl
Tech Master
iTrader: (7)
Quick Question???
1. Does anyone on here sell the chassis protectors?
2. What all plastic besides the front and rear bumper can I shed for weight?
3. What is the recommended steering servo should I be thinking about or using?
Thank You
Chad
2. What all plastic besides the front and rear bumper can I shed for weight?
3. What is the recommended steering servo should I be thinking about or using?
Thank You
Chad
I was looking through my box and noticed I had some of the "soft" silver springs that came out before the race packs.. what shock 'rate' are the silvers? I didn't get any hits on the search.. maybe the Ryan or one of the losi guys could help?
Thanks!!
Thanks!!
Spring rates for LOSB 2959 Front set
Green - 3.6
Blue - 3.9
Black - 4.2
Purple - 4.5
Spring rates for LOSB 2963 Rear set
Red - 2.7
Orange - 3.0
Silver - 3.3
Green - 3.6
"Old" spring rates..
Stock spring rates
Silver/Black/Gold
The current fronts are 3.6, 3.9, 4.3
The current rears are 3.0, 3.3, 3.6
Tech Adept
Considering 5200 kv tenshock 411
Hey, I am currently running a 4000 kv tenshock 401. The motor is smooth with the hobbywing 120 xerun.
However, the 4000 has unnecessary torque that goes un-used. If I try to use it, it just wears out tires.
I am considering getting the 5200 kv sensored 401 tenshock motor. I did a search on it and did not find many testimonials.
I know it is a lot of motor. It is ok if it is to fast. I do not get carried away with the throttle and only use it when I need it.
Has anyone tried this motor out?
However, the 4000 has unnecessary torque that goes un-used. If I try to use it, it just wears out tires.
I am considering getting the 5200 kv sensored 401 tenshock motor. I did a search on it and did not find many testimonials.
I know it is a lot of motor. It is ok if it is to fast. I do not get carried away with the throttle and only use it when I need it.
Has anyone tried this motor out?
Hey, I am currently running a 4000 kv tenshock 401. The motor is smooth with the hobbywing 120 xerun.
However, the 4000 has unnecessary torque that goes un-used. If I try to use it, it just wears out tires.
I am considering getting the 5200 kv sensored 401 tenshock motor. I did a search on it and did not find many testimonials.
I know it is a lot of motor. It is ok if it is to fast. I do not get carried away with the throttle and only use it when I need it.
Has anyone tried this motor out?
However, the 4000 has unnecessary torque that goes un-used. If I try to use it, it just wears out tires.
I am considering getting the 5200 kv sensored 401 tenshock motor. I did a search on it and did not find many testimonials.
I know it is a lot of motor. It is ok if it is to fast. I do not get carried away with the throttle and only use it when I need it.
Has anyone tried this motor out?
Spring rates
stolen from an old Chris Attebery post on another forum:
Spring rates for LOSB 2959 Front set
Green - 3.6
Blue - 3.9
Black - 4.2
Purple - 4.5
Spring rates for LOSB 2963 Rear set
Red - 2.7
Orange - 3.0
Silver - 3.3
Green - 3.6
"Old" spring rates..
Stock spring rates
Silver/Black/Gold
The current fronts are 3.6, 3.9, 4.3
The current rears are 3.0, 3.3, 3.6
Spring rates for LOSB 2959 Front set
Green - 3.6
Blue - 3.9
Black - 4.2
Purple - 4.5
Spring rates for LOSB 2963 Rear set
Red - 2.7
Orange - 3.0
Silver - 3.3
Green - 3.6
"Old" spring rates..
Stock spring rates
Silver/Black/Gold
The current fronts are 3.6, 3.9, 4.3
The current rears are 3.0, 3.3, 3.6
smallest holes start at 1 and go up to 5(biggest holes)
in 1 single pack of LOSB2909 you get two of each number.
#1 x 2
#2 x 2
...
#5 x 2
So to answer your question if you need to buy 1 or two packs... answer is depends.
Box stock all 4 shocks have the #3 piston.
If you want the ability to have more than 2 shocks to have the same pistons(assuming you don't want #3 pistons) then yes you need 2 packs. Otherwise 1 pack should be good. Of course they are cheap and it never hurts to have backups. So I don't think buying 2 packs would break you either, however IMOP not needed.
If you are trying Lane's or Dunford setup then you only need 1 pack, as you only need to change out the rear pistons to #4's.
-Woody
Tech Regular
iTrader: (39)
Wanted to show off my ride!