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Losi 1/10 TEN-SCTE ARR 4x4 Short Course Truck Thread

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Old 08-19-2011, 11:39 PM
  #17791  
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Originally Posted by kokoyang
Hello...I'm currently working on my TEN-SCTE. Just wanted to ask if anyone knows what setting Dustin Evans use for his front aluminum pivot supports? I'm doing an exact set-up as listed on Losi.com but cannot find any set-up sheet that has the settings for this particular part.

Thanks!
I don't know of anybody that has strayed from the stock settings up front. 0 and 0 is the way we are all running the front supports.

Originally Posted by switchdye
can you tell me how to diminish the famous losi slop
You talking about the slop in the steering? New ends and balls will help some but there is just a lot going on and slop will develop due to all the ball joints.
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:01 AM
  #17792  
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Friday nite race report...Ten min mains and finally got the fast guy with the ae 4x4 This is a truck I picked up used and am running as my outdoor truck.1st qual,truck ran good,2nd qual the steering was all over the place and I had turned up my EPA a bit from where I had it so it was a complete nightmare!Before the mains I looked at the lock nut on the servo saver and yup it was backed all the way downSo I dropped the steering speed and pulled down my th EPA to 90%.It was a real work out to get the truck to stay at the front but managed to pull off 2nd place Behind Flyin Bryan Sullivan.Who was just toying with us,pass us stop and wait then pass us all again!!Just an amazing driver and he was running an BCE chassis on his SCTE truck and was stuck to the track!!!So remember to red locktite that thing up and tite if your having steering issues with your truck!! Cheers!!
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Old 08-20-2011, 12:09 AM
  #17793  
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Originally Posted by kokoyang
Hello...I'm currently working on my TEN-SCTE. Just wanted to ask if anyone knows what setting Dustin Evans use for his front aluminum pivot supports? I'm doing an exact set-up as listed on Losi.com but cannot find any set-up sheet that has the settings for this particular part.

Thanks!
if the track is bumpy I run it just one step from stock leaned back, (more caster)better for bumpy/rudded tracks

if the track is smooth I run it 1 step more upright (less caster)
better on smooth tracks

but there is a trade off
more caster= less steering
less caster= more steering
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Old 08-20-2011, 01:13 AM
  #17794  
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Anybody want to donate a SCTE., motor, esc...ect; to charity?? For a raffle @ the Region 5 ROAR Championship? I know it's a long shot but never know unless you try. If intersted PM me and I can send charity and race info.
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Old 08-20-2011, 05:02 AM
  #17795  
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Originally Posted by kerby
Anybody want to donate a SCTE., motor, esc...ect; to charity?? For a raffle @ the Region 5 ROAR Championship? I know it's a long shot but never know unless you try. If intersted PM me and I can send charity and race info.
Call Losi/Horizon. Our local track (G's) got one for our ROAR 2 race for our race raffle.
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Old 08-20-2011, 06:22 AM
  #17796  
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Originally Posted by Factory48
For those guys who've been running the SNR graphite chassis, are you guys driving them on huge 1/8th scale outdoor tracks? I've been contemplating getting one but I'm worried that it'll snap in half. I run on a huge track with 6 foot jumps. It's either the SNR or the BCE. I need to lighten my truck up especially for the big jumps. Thanks.
I'm running an indoor clay track. No HUGE jumps on the current layout, the biggest jump is this triple (picture below, not my picture, I took it out of the OCRC thread). I've cased it a few times and the snr chassis has held up fine. That being said, if you've got huge jumps then you may request SNR to make you the 4.2mm chassis like Bustanut666's, it still weighs less than the BCE chassis and the extra thickness will be plenty strong since 1/8th scales that use CF chassis use 4mm. I'm running the 3.7mm and I'd be comfortable putting it on a big 1/8th scale outdoor track with big jumps, but the thicker chassis will give you the extra confidence. So far, both Bustanut666 and I have both been very happy with our SNR chassis.

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Old 08-20-2011, 06:31 AM
  #17797  
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Lighter than the BCE, most def.

If your looking for a long lasting investment consider the BCE, the CF will look like you were driving on a belt sander in a matter of a few races.

T7 is waaay harder than epxoy resin.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:10 AM
  #17798  
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When you guys are setting your ride height do you pick the whole truck up and drop it about 6 inches or do you pick up one end at a time and set one end at a time? I ask because I tried it both ways and came up with 2 different heights.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:32 AM
  #17799  
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Originally Posted by mxr300ex
When you guys are setting your ride height do you pick the whole truck up and drop it about 6 inches or do you pick up one end at a time and set one end at a time? I ask because I tried it both ways and came up with 2 different heights.
Expert on back spacing but your struggling with ride height ?

Drop the truck from a few inches and it'll be at normal ride height, go from there.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:36 AM
  #17800  
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Originally Posted by Bondonutz
Lighter than the BCE, most def.

If your looking for a long lasting investment consider the BCE, the CF will look like you were driving on a belt sander in a matter of a few races.

T7 is waaay harder than epxoy resin.
The TLR chassis will also be out within a week or two, I would consider this as well for an outdoor track. We did a lot of testing all over with different chassis and gave you the best.

Originally Posted by mxr300ex
When you guys are setting your ride height do you pick the whole truck up and drop it about 6 inches or do you pick up one end at a time and set one end at a time? I ask because I tried it both ways and came up with 2 different heights.
If this is the case, its likely something is binding a little somewhere. But typically, its the 6-10 inch type of drop.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:52 AM
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Originally Posted by hacker07
The TLR chassis will also be out within a week or two, I would consider this as well for an outdoor track. We did a lot of testing all over with different chassis and gave you ONE of the best.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:55 AM
  #17802  
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Originally Posted by switchdye
can you tell me how to diminish the famous losi slop
Use rod ends from a different kit or brand. I'm currently using Traxxas Revo and Jato rod ends. They're not perfect though and I'm still looking for other alternatives.

The Losi plastic is cheap and deforms quite easily. You might have to end up using a different set of screws though. I think some guys here are using rod ends from the Losi 8.
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Old 08-20-2011, 08:58 AM
  #17803  
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Hey guys, my dad and I are picking up one of these today. I just wanted to know if there's anything I should know about servicing the car? The car is for my dad, but I'll be doing any repairs or regular maintenance. How often should I service the gear diffs? Are there certain components that need regular tightening? I just need a little help so I can keep his car in tip top shape.

Thanks!
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:02 AM
  #17804  
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after setting up shocks dropping it, setting up ride height, I noticed the rear end seams to stick and not rebound as fast as the front, running silver springs back, gold front, 40 front 25 rear oils. checked for binding it all good, with out shocks. is it sticking on landing like a cat, is this good or should I free it up some ? bu moving the shock locations ? Thanks
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Old 08-20-2011, 09:07 AM
  #17805  
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I suppose I'll go with a milled aftermarket chassis. Now I gotta figure out whether to get the Losi, BCE, or Bump. I wish someone had a comprehensive comparison of the 3.
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