1LikesTLR 22 Racing Buggy Thread
07-21-2011, 04:48 PM
#8687
Been getting a good feel for the buggy now since I go to my track every Sunday and practice. Got an aluminum steering rack yesterday and it still has a good deal of slop 
Maybe delrin next time?
Anyways, since I'm looking into different setups and considering hop-ups and such, what do you guys prefer when it comes to rod ends and turnbuckles? Are there nice RPM rod ends made yet that will fit the stock 22 turnbuckles?
Either way, looking for a tougher replacement in both areas if necessary to get away from any further slop.
Also, since I'm writing a book here, wondering if anybody is running a modified LRP Vector X-12, and if so, which one may be a good match for the 22 on a larger medium bite track. I've got a 13.5 X-12 that I love, but I'm getting brave enough to take the training wheels off and could get a new motor delivered by next Wednesday. Don't want to overdo it though...
Maybe delrin next time?
Anyways, since I'm looking into different setups and considering hop-ups and such, what do you guys prefer when it comes to rod ends and turnbuckles? Are there nice RPM rod ends made yet that will fit the stock 22 turnbuckles?
Either way, looking for a tougher replacement in both areas if necessary to get away from any further slop.
Also, since I'm writing a book here, wondering if anybody is running a modified LRP Vector X-12, and if so, which one may be a good match for the 22 on a larger medium bite track. I've got a 13.5 X-12 that I love, but I'm getting brave enough to take the training wheels off and could get a new motor delivered by next Wednesday. Don't want to overdo it though...
07-21-2011, 04:55 PM
#8688
I have tried the delrin version and is very good. no sign of wear yet. It comes with a little higher tolerance, so it does require a short break-in period. Took me two 5min races to wear it in. Now its silky smooth and no slop.
http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_cate...GY&action=list
The alu version is now available though major hobby retailers, but have not tried it as yet. Happy with the delrin for now, but the weight factor might come in handy with an alu slider if you need to add weight to the front end..
http://thetoyz.com/cart/thetoyz_cate...GY&action=list
The alu version is now available though major hobby retailers, but have not tried it as yet. Happy with the delrin for now, but the weight factor might come in handy with an alu slider if you need to add weight to the front end..
cheers
DrivenProductions
07-21-2011, 05:44 PM
#8689
Hey guys im during my build right now, and i am having truble trying to install tlr1065 the part that holds the a arms in place, it will not screw down completly therefore the screws can just slide out. Any tips?
07-21-2011, 05:52 PM
#8690
Here is a setup I have been using her in Atlanta on the large 8th scale tracks with very low grip. The car has been very forgiving and easy to drive.
Low Grip 22 Setup
Low Grip 22 Setup
07-21-2011, 06:44 PM
#8691
Hey Corey, How are you. I decided to follow your lead and leave TQ Racing.
I have been working with Matt Chambers for a while on a set up for our home track. It goes from being slick early to extremely high bite, pink slicks. It's pretty much Dustin's set up with a few changes. Give it a try, I think you will like it; I remember we ran about the same TQ setup.
Front: 0 bump steer, spindles equally spaced 1mm top and bottom, orange spring, 2mm limiters.
Rear: 1-B 0 washers under inner ballstud 2mm on hub, hubs 1mm forward.
Everything else is the same as Dustin's. Matt and I both Love it, as well as most of the rest of the fast guys at our track. For those of you who struggled with the car over rotating on exit and on throttle, this should fix it. If you need more rear grip move the rear hubs forward; less, move it back. If you like more steering going in, move the spindle down like Dustin's. If your track is loose the Red spring might be better.
The track at the Worlds looked pushy with a lot of forward bite, so I don't know if this set up worked at the worlds.
I have been working with Matt Chambers for a while on a set up for our home track. It goes from being slick early to extremely high bite, pink slicks. It's pretty much Dustin's set up with a few changes. Give it a try, I think you will like it; I remember we ran about the same TQ setup.
Front: 0 bump steer, spindles equally spaced 1mm top and bottom, orange spring, 2mm limiters.
Rear: 1-B 0 washers under inner ballstud 2mm on hub, hubs 1mm forward.
Everything else is the same as Dustin's. Matt and I both Love it, as well as most of the rest of the fast guys at our track. For those of you who struggled with the car over rotating on exit and on throttle, this should fix it. If you need more rear grip move the rear hubs forward; less, move it back. If you like more steering going in, move the spindle down like Dustin's. If your track is loose the Red spring might be better.
The track at the Worlds looked pushy with a lot of forward bite, so I don't know if this set up worked at the worlds.
I tried Corey's setup (for the most part) on my track last night after struggling with the Dustin setup the previous night, our track is large outdoor, 1/8th track but with no large jumps to speak of, the layout is half a season old and is very wore out, hard packed and bumpy. Its hard pack but still somewhat dusty and very loose. When we water it, its good for about 30 minutes then its dry and slick again.
I've been running Double D's on the back, stock foams, they seem pretty good. I am still having a little trouble with the car over-rotating coming out of the corner. Its great going in, center, and off at first, and then right at the last second it starts coming around and I have to breathe the throttle. I am using the stock rear hexes, and the 4 Degree toe block because the 3.5 is out of stock at my LHS. I used white springs on the rear last night. Using a full-length lipo, all the way back.
On another note, has anybody had any problems with the front hinge pins that go through the arm and bulkhead shearing off? See attached
I've been running Double D's on the back, stock foams, they seem pretty good. I am still having a little trouble with the car over-rotating coming out of the corner. Its great going in, center, and off at first, and then right at the last second it starts coming around and I have to breathe the throttle. I am using the stock rear hexes, and the 4 Degree toe block because the 3.5 is out of stock at my LHS. I used white springs on the rear last night. Using a full-length lipo, all the way back.
On another note, has anybody had any problems with the front hinge pins that go through the arm and bulkhead shearing off? See attached
Ya for you to get the correct feel of the car you need to run the setup to the "T" cant be doing "most part" business lol... Minor changes to my setup is what makes the world of difference.... RUN IT EXACTLY then get back to me
07-21-2011, 08:20 PM
#8692
with those conditions I would be more inclined to use red compound for the rear and silver for the front. Now with those compounds I would recomend 2-stage for the rear or if your track is on the smooth side I would maybe try proline or AKA closed cell as the traction gets higher. For the front I would just run the stock foam as the tire has a lot of natural support.
07-21-2011, 08:26 PM
#8693
I tried Corey's setup (for the most part) on my track last night after struggling with the Dustin setup the previous night, our track is large outdoor, 1/8th track but with no large jumps to speak of, the layout is half a season old and is very wore out, hard packed and bumpy. Its hard pack but still somewhat dusty and very loose. When we water it, its good for about 30 minutes then its dry and slick again.
I've been running Double D's on the back, stock foams, they seem pretty good. I am still having a little trouble with the car over-rotating coming out of the corner. Its great going in, center, and off at first, and then right at the last second it starts coming around and I have to breathe the throttle. I am using the stock rear hexes, and the 4 Degree toe block because the 3.5 is out of stock at my LHS. I used white springs on the rear last night. Using a full-length lipo, all the way back.
On another note, has anybody had any problems with the front hinge pins that go through the arm and bulkhead shearing off? See attached
I've been running Double D's on the back, stock foams, they seem pretty good. I am still having a little trouble with the car over-rotating coming out of the corner. Its great going in, center, and off at first, and then right at the last second it starts coming around and I have to breathe the throttle. I am using the stock rear hexes, and the 4 Degree toe block because the 3.5 is out of stock at my LHS. I used white springs on the rear last night. Using a full-length lipo, all the way back.
On another note, has anybody had any problems with the front hinge pins that go through the arm and bulkhead shearing off? See attached
07-21-2011, 08:41 PM
#8694
Hey guys just wanted to share what has come to be my standard setup. I've been working with the car since Cactus putting in 3 sometimes 4 nights a week at my local tracks and I can say without a doubt this is the best car I have ever driven.
I recently ran this setup at the HRH Shootout and found it to be very safe and easy to dive. I prefer not to have a car not so sensitive that I feel that I must "breath" on the wheel of my radio or for that matter my trigger, and this provides.
Of the 6 TLR 22's that made the A at the Shootout my car was the only one with a different setup all together. Not saying mine was any better but for me I loved it and wouldn't have changed a thing.
Give it a try let me know what you think.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...hMzdm&hl=en_US
I recently ran this setup at the HRH Shootout and found it to be very safe and easy to dive. I prefer not to have a car not so sensitive that I feel that I must "breath" on the wheel of my radio or for that matter my trigger, and this provides.
Of the 6 TLR 22's that made the A at the Shootout my car was the only one with a different setup all together. Not saying mine was any better but for me I loved it and wouldn't have changed a thing.
Give it a try let me know what you think.
https://docs.google.com/viewer?a=v&p...hMzdm&hl=en_US
07-21-2011, 09:26 PM
#8696
Will get you a number on overall weight tomorrow.
Last edited by Ricky G; 07-21-2011 at 09:38 PM.
07-21-2011, 09:28 PM
#8697
Tech Fanatic
iTrader: (8)
Anyone have a quick pick of the TLR 22 in a rear motor config with a Tekin RS/RS Pro mounted and body off? I'm going from an LRP to a Tekin and I can't seem to find a "clean" way to install it. The receiver wire is about 3/8" too short to lay flat on the chassis assuming that receiver is up mounted against the standard size servo so it can accommodate both shorty and standard lipo packs. Best I can do is have the receiver wire run along the top of the battery. Thanks in advance for the help.
07-21-2011, 09:50 PM
#8698
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Anyone have a quick pick of the TLR 22 in a rear motor config with a Tekin RS/RS Pro mounted and body off? I'm going from an LRP to a Tekin and I can't seem to find a "clean" way to install it. The receiver wire is about 3/8" too short to lay flat on the chassis assuming that receiver is up mounted against the standard size servo so it can accommodate both shorty and standard lipo packs. Best I can do is have the receiver wire run along the top of the battery. Thanks in advance for the help.
Or you can do what i did and solder a longer lead to the speed controller.
Last edited by Jeremey; 07-21-2011 at 10:07 PM.
07-21-2011, 11:27 PM
#8700
Suspended
iTrader: (7)
1. You mixed up the plastic piece that the screws thread into with one used for the mid motor setup. The screws thread into the transmission case on the mid motor layout, so there is a set amount of space for the toe brace and anti-squat shims. If you run 0 anti-squat you need a thicker plastic piece between the toe block and the transmission case, if you run 2 degrees of anti-squat, you need the appropriate plastic piece (I would guess the one labled 2 degrees) to fit in the coresponding space. For the rear motor layout (I presume you are building your car rear motor as this is the only way to run into your problem) there is only one plastic insert that works. Look through all of thos little plastic inserts and find the one that doesn't have a degree label, and use that one. It should have been bagged for that step, but you might have got it mixed in with the others.
2. TLR didn't put the correct spacer that allows the screws to thread into it in your kit. In that case the quick solution is to go to the bag of tuning parts. get the insert labeled with the largest degree (this should be the thinnest insert), then use a couple locknuts on the end of the screws. This will get you going, but I would still get ahold of TLR and have them send you the correct part.
Either way when you use my advice to figure out your problem, please let me know the errors of your or TLR's way.
Anyone have a quick pick of the TLR 22 in a rear motor config with a Tekin RS/RS Pro mounted and body off? I'm going from an LRP to a Tekin and I can't seem to find a "clean" way to install it. The receiver wire is about 3/8" too short to lay flat on the chassis assuming that receiver is up mounted against the standard size servo so it can accommodate both shorty and standard lipo packs. Best I can do is have the receiver wire run along the top of the battery. Thanks in advance for the help.