Nasty N8

iTrader: (31)

LOL gotta me drive that thing Joe

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

DANG IT!

I totally forgot to mention that I did put the 3.5 HRC block on and it did help some but not completely, was still wanting more steering.
I also had new Scrubs up front and broken in Suburbs 2.0 in the rear so the tires were also taken care of.

Note:

In case anyone is still confused about the HRC vs. the LRC toe blocks and the shims needed to get the proper anti squat when switching between the two, (I sure was), it is 1mm.
The HRC block will raise the rear hinge pins 1mm which means you must also raise the front hinge pins 1mm to keep the anti squat setting equal to what you had before the change.
The kit shims are all marked with "22T" on them and they are for the LRC blocks. These are marked with notches, 1, 2, 2.5, and 3 degrees. Illustrated in the build instructions.
THESE ARE NOT measured in mm so adding the #1 anti squat shim will not raise the inner block 1mm.
There is a set of anti squat shims available to match the HRC blocks.

You may also just add 1mm washers from the kit, same ones used for the ballstuds, and put them under the original anti squat shims.

Thanks to the TLR Team guys for all of this information and their generous support!

STLNLST

iTrader: (32)

So are you saying that they aren't (mm) for the LRC? The Evans set up states 2.5 anti squat so I would assume it's the 2.5 shim giving the 2.5mm Is this not the case when using the LRC blocks?

Eli

iTrader: (15)

it is myt understanding that there is no relation to mm's to thickness of anti-squat shims.

But like cuda mentioned since the hrc block is approximately 1mm higher that you would have to add a 1mm shim to retain the same anti-squat setting. otherwise you wouldn't know your'e anti squat unless you switched to the hrc anti-squat shims. clear as mud?

tyreguy

iTrader: (148)

Thanks. That is what I was thinking of doing but was did not know if it would overheat. I will probably be using it with a7.5.

Thanks

Outtacontrol58

iTrader: (92)

So is a low profile servo not strong enough for the buggy? (from a few pages back)

Cackswayn

iTrader: (16)

My ko-propo low pro has held up great.

Ruffy

iTrader: (3)

A lot of these setup tips are not as helpful as they might be until the posters start by describing what their track conditions are like.

For example; you might be on what is considered a high-grip/high-traction clay indoor track and the tips you are giving are what worked for you to find more traction for the front wheels (for fast turn-in) and maintain rear stability. Someone running their 22 on a low-bite to "slick and loose" track surface might try these tips and just have one heck of a time, becoming completely lost with their own setup learning curve.

Please let us know what your track conditions are considered. Over here in Florida, we consider tracks like where the Reedy Race was run (WCRC Raceway) a very high-bite track which is why the Evans setup here will most likely cause spinouts since our indoor tracks do not have quite that much traction. We have more a medium traction to loose surface traction due to the amount of sand in our tracks make-up, that comes to the surface and forms small sand-dunes so often during the race day.

This information will help many current and new 22 drivers out substantially.

Ruffy

iTrader: (3)

My Savox 1251MG low-profile servo works perfectly here with the M11x

Bobby Z

iTrader: (4)

You can always measure the LRC 2.5 shim to see if it is 2.5mm thick. I doubt it will be as antisquat has always been measured in degress for as long as I can remember.

The shim will be as thick as it needs to be to achieve 2.5 degrees of angle on the pin. The HRC shims will follow the same principle but the entire pin sits higher on the car so the shims have to be that much thicker to compensate for the position of the pin in the rear pin holder.

Ferret

From my experience, the problem with LP servos is not that they lack strength, but that they tend to have a high peak power draw (because they use a shorter motor), which can overwhelm the BEC and cause the receiver to loose power.
This can be cured with an external BEC or sometimes just a capacitor.

Avner.

F N CUDA

iTrader: (34)

Correct, the 2.5 shim is for 2.5 degrees of anti squat but that is not measured in mm as described again by Eli's and Bobby Z's posts below.

The HRC block is exactly 1mm higher than the LRC block though so a spacer or shim that is exactly 1mm extra is needed to keep this same anti squat when switching to an HRC block.



I should have mentioned that I am on a pretty hi bite clay track that can sometimes become medium bite although I would think that whether you start off with the Evans setup or the kit setup that the tuning options available would help you determine which way you need to go in order to achieve either more or less steering or more or less traction.
It's a relative thing, no?
If you are on a hi bite track the Evans setup will probably be spot on.
If you are on a med to hi bite track and start with the Evans setup, you may want to try the stuff I mentioned that have helped me.
If you are on a looser track then the kit setup may be your best starting point since this setup tends to lean toward less steering.

Exactly, for instance, the LRC shim marked for 1 degree of anti squat is not 1mm but is actually .7 mm.

To make it easier to install the 1mm spacers for the ballstuds that are included in the kit under the anti squat shim, you can cut it into a C shape and slide it under or you will need to pull the screws out 1 at a time and then push em back thru the spacers.

goin2drt

iTrader: (77)

OK so I am still confused. I am building my 22 now. The Evans set up says 2.5 MM and I noticed in Bag F there are anti squat extra bags. Do I want to use the ones that have 2.5T stamped on them?

Thanks.

Casper

iTrader: (34)

The Antisquat shims are labled to give you the proper ANGLE of antisquat. So the 1 notch will give you one deg of antisquat the two notch 2 deg of antisquat etc.

I find the Evans setup to be stable but lack a little steering. I think it will be a good starting point for most conditions because of this. Usually adjusting a ball stud washer here or there can dial you in pretty quick.

Cuda and myself are both running on indoor clay med to high bite. I have run the same setup on outdoor wet hard pack with some fluff and with the right tires for the track the car was really easy to drive out there as well!

Casper

iTrader: (34)

I just looked at the setup sheet and is says 2.5 deg for antisquat.