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Old 07-17-2011, 10:24 AM
  #8536  
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Originally Posted by NitroXray80809
Yeah but the performance is more imortent then looks and squirrel don't race. I like his vids but they are really annoying since he got alot more popular. I wouldnt follow squirrel. But if u want mid motor go for it, theres just not much set up help and most who try it switch back.
I've run it both ways and can tell you on a mid to high bite clay track the rear set up is faster. Mid may be more consistent but at some point being consistently slower gets old. yesterday is as close as you will find to running it back to back. First 3 packs were mid and my fastest lap was in the 26.3 I think. Switched the car to rear and ran a 24.9 in the main. Same track, same tires. Like I said I was more consistent mid but I was on a 12 5:18 pace all day in practice with out many mistakes. My second qualifier was 12 5:12 and had to be marshaled twice which cost me about 6 seconds. As you can see I am very much an analyst by nature. My transponder failed in the first round and I had to be hand counted so I didn't have lap times, it wa killing me!
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:16 AM
  #8537  
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I ran the 22 yesterday for the first time and WOW. At firers when I got to the track it was box stock set up on the rear and Evans set up on the front and the rear was way to loose for me. I kept making changes all day and got faster and faster with the buggy. I ended up qualifying 1st in the B Main and made more changes before the B Main and it was SICK I lead the B start to finish lapping the field and that time I got in same 6min would have qualified me 5th in the A Main. I bumped into the A main and finished 5th. Not bad for my first run with the 22 and first time back racing electric in 2 months. The buggy is perfect to me, on/off power steering, jumps perfect, and smooth acceleration. I ran the gear diff too I haven't tried the ball diff seems to tight and notchy. I also ran the +1.5 hubs to run my rb5 rear wheels.

Here are the changes I made.
First qualifier 15/6:15
Shock oil change to 25 all around
More camber in the rear
Lowered ride height 2mm
Second qualifier 16/6:39 (broke on last lap making the last long)
Changed oil to 22 1/2 in the rear
Moved batter all the way back
Put 3k in the diff
Put -1 degree toe in front
B Main win 17/6:17
No changes before a main 5th 17/6:20-22

Awesome buggy can't wait to drive it again! I did brake a pin in the cva assembly it was my fault tho.

Andy
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:29 AM
  #8538  
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Originally Posted by punkracer24
I don't think you guys give enough credit to the mid motor configuration....I don't run the 22, I run Xfactory and I can tell you that even when the track is slick I am able to make more grip than most Associated cars (no losi's in mod here)


The thought that you need high traction to run mid motor is a fallacy. you just need to work on setup and you can have a car that is just as good if not better than rear motor
you're talking about a completely different car. I will agree, i drove a x-factory b4 at my local track before we brought in real clay and the thing was dialed. However when i drove my friends 22 mid motor and he knows what he is doing when it comes to set-up and his would not work nearly as well, it was so bad that i didn't even want to drive it.
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Old 07-17-2011, 11:48 AM
  #8539  
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Originally Posted by dmatter
Anybody know how to get this car to work with Futaba radios? I have tried multiple servos, multiple length steering links and multiple servo horn angles. I barely if at all make it to locks with the car in mid air. Everybody I know running Futaba has epa and dr cranked all the way up.

I run a Futaba 4PKS radio system with all my TLR rides and have no problems? I do run a SUPER FAST JR servo though....
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:10 PM
  #8540  
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Originally Posted by 02maxima18
I ran the gear diff too I haven't tried the ball diff seems to tight and notchy.
Which Gear diff did you use? Is the Losi one out yet?
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:33 PM
  #8541  
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Last edited by TWRC; 11-07-2011 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:35 PM
  #8542  
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I found out that steering mechanism on 22 has two disadvantages.

1. It has bigger play than a cr one but it isnt so bad Imho.
2. It doesnt have servo saver so I can get servo arm by hit under point that is ok to return. This happened to me today and probably cost me place. My wheel after jump got up and to right leading the servo arm to go to place where there was no return back without help.

Anyone have a solution of this please?
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:45 PM
  #8543  
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Just got 22 yesterday bean wrenching on it for few hours

hey do any of you use this Exotek TLR 22 Carbon Battery Strap? How do you like it? Sorry can't post link won't let me

Thanks
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:55 PM
  #8544  
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Originally Posted by -vtec-
Just got 22 yesterday bean wrenching on it for few hours

hey do any of you use this Exotek TLR 22 Carbon Battery Strap? How do you like it? Sorry can't post link won't let me

Thanks
Im running it, at first impression i was kinda dis-appointed but after getting it on i really like it now. I put a small piece off foam in the middle on the battery side to keep the tension tight. I also loctited all the fasteners.
If you're concerned about weight, im pretty sure it weights more then the stock unit but its not like it weights a ton or anything, its carbon but the hardware is where the weight is.
the look of it is very clean aswell. One downfall i could see is if you're wanting to run the shorty pack in the middle of the chassis im not sure if the strap would cover the battery. I went back to a full size pack so i dont have to worry about this
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Old 07-17-2011, 12:59 PM
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Originally Posted by -vtec-
hey do any of you use this Exotek TLR 22 Carbon Battery Strap? How do you like it? Sorry can't post link won't let me

Thanks
i have it, it sucks, the deisgn wasnt thought through and obviously not field tested. it has u flip the tabs INWARD to remove the strap, so once u remove the strap u cant get the battery out until u move the tabs back outward. and the tabs are too small, when its tight enough to not have your battery rattle around, the tabs are nearly impossible to move to lock them, and when it is loose enough, your battery rattles around.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:05 PM
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Originally Posted by dmatter
Anybody know how to get this car to work with Futaba radios? I have tried multiple servos, multiple length steering links and multiple servo horn angles. I barely if at all make it to locks with the car in mid air. Everybody I know running Futaba has epa and dr cranked all the way up.
I have my 4pks left and right steering epa's at 120 also. If there was any more steering throw it would need more epa, but at 120 it's spot on.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:06 PM
  #8547  
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Originally Posted by Aoh
i have it, it sucks, the deisgn wasnt thought through and obviously not field tested. it has u flip the tabs INWARD to remove the strap, so once u remove the strap u cant get the battery out until u move the tabs back outward. and the tabs are too small, when its tight enough to not have your battery rattle around, the tabs are nearly impossible to move to lock them, and when it is loose enough, your battery rattles around.
thats why i put a piece of foam in their. small square piece right in the middle, haven't had any problems with mine. i may enlarge the holes a little larger so the little tabs don't have to be exactly centered to remove the battery strap. Imc going to be running a 2.4 hour enduro with my car and ill probably put the stocker piece back in with the velcro since it takes a little less time with the stock unit to replace batteries.
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:08 PM
  #8548  
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Originally Posted by dmatter
Anybody know how to get this car to work with Futaba radios? I have tried multiple servos, multiple length steering links and multiple servo horn angles. I barely if at all make it to locks with the car in mid air. Everybody I know running Futaba has epa and dr cranked all the way up.
Can you increase your dual rate?
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:19 PM
  #8549  
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Originally Posted by Aoh
i have it, it sucks, the deisgn wasnt thought through and obviously not field tested. it has u flip the tabs INWARD to remove the strap, so once u remove the strap u cant get the battery out until u move the tabs back outward. and the tabs are too small, when its tight enough to not have your battery rattle around, the tabs are nearly impossible to move to lock them, and when it is loose enough, your battery rattles around.
From Exotek's website:
Nothing improves your car or truck more than a properly designed hop-up. Like wise nothing is more frustrating than buying a hop-up that doesn’t live up to it’s promises
Awkward.....
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Old 07-17-2011, 01:37 PM
  #8550  
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Originally Posted by Aoh
i have it, it sucks, the deisgn wasnt thought through and obviously not field tested. it has u flip the tabs INWARD to remove the strap, so once u remove the strap u cant get the battery out until u move the tabs back outward. and the tabs are too small, when its tight enough to not have your battery rattle around, the tabs are nearly impossible to move to lock them, and when it is loose enough, your battery rattles around.
Originally Posted by TWRC
From Exotek's website:


Awkward.....
Works fine for me, rotating the tabs 90 dregrees to remove the battery is just that, its no big deal.
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