1LikesB44.1 Thread
04-19-2012 | 12:23 PM
#1936
The 44.1 comes with the LiPo specific chassis and battery tray (as well as having the option to run bolt on weight ballast. The B44 as-is has a tray for cells, and I think it's $20-30 to get the LiPo tray to upgrade, plus you still have the cell slots in the chassis, and the B44 chassis is wider up front. Not to mention the motor mount alone is worth the upgrade.
I would go 44.1 to get the dialed chassis, motor mount, V2 shocks, bleeder caps, and LiPo ready...
Kurt
I would go 44.1 to get the dialed chassis, motor mount, V2 shocks, bleeder caps, and LiPo ready...
Kurt
I've read a few times the .1 motor mount is far better, and it will be nice to have the other upgrades, as well as just knowing I don't have the many year old model.
Thanks
04-19-2012 | 02:08 PM
#1937
Schumacher Cat SX2 to B44.1?
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.
I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:
1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.
2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)
FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.
I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.
I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:
1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.
2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)
FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.
I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.
Last edited by bergie33; 04-19-2012 at 02:19 PM. Reason: added info
04-19-2012 | 03:43 PM
#1938
i c on steve h's setup he flipped the steering rack, what does that exactly mean? flip it over or turn it around? What does this do?
yea, if you have local part support, and help from locals its the car to get. It is very durable but of course if you crash right it will break front arm, and i have seen front shock shafts breaking. Pic up some extra shims and shim your diff tight. Thats all you need=]
yea, if you have local part support, and help from locals its the car to get. It is very durable but of course if you crash right it will break front arm, and i have seen front shock shafts breaking. Pic up some extra shims and shim your diff tight. Thats all you need=]
04-19-2012 | 05:37 PM
#1939
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.
I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:
1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.
2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)
FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.
I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.
I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:
1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.
2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)
FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.
I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.
Setup wise, box stock setup always works on our track. And if you buy it from ir-cr Jeff will throw in a month of free practice and racing.
04-19-2012 | 05:57 PM
#1941
Hey, I think I spoke with you one of the first times at our track and i'm from sandy aswell. Being I've never driven a cat I can't comment on the handling differences. But if you look all the top Wheeler drivers are running 44.1s. (I run the orange one btw). As cool as the cats look there just isn't any parts fordriving. them here in the valley. Jeff has every part you can buy for the 44 right at the front counter. Durability wise they are very durable. A arms bresk here and there and so do shock shafts, all can be remedied by better driving..
Setup wise, box stock setup always works on our track. And if you buy it from ir-cr Jeff will throw in a month of free practice and racing.
Setup wise, box stock setup always works on our track. And if you buy it from ir-cr Jeff will throw in a month of free practice and racing.
04-21-2012 | 07:38 AM
#1942
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
Hello B44 peeps,
I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.
Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.
What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.
Thanks!
I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.
Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.
What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.
Thanks!
04-21-2012 | 07:47 AM
#1943
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I am currently running a Schumacher Cat SX2. I love the car, the build, the durability, etc. I am, however, the lone Schumacher at the track, no tuning support, no parts support (have to order from A-Main) and still learning to drive the car with a 13.5 without breaking parts, so it is starting to take its toll.
I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:
1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.
2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)
FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.
I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.
I am considering switching over to a B44.1 for the parts support and tunning support from other drivers. I am a little concerned about a few things:
1) Durability issues with the B44.1...will I be breaking a lot more parts as I continue to learn to drive.
2) Driveability of the B44.1 vs the Cat, will I notice a huge difference? (I am not pushing the Cat to the limit yet, so maybe the switch now would be easier than if I were to get really good with it and switch later)
FYI, the track I drive on is indoor med-high bite clay.
I am looking for some opinions and guideance. I figured I might get a little more unbiased help here than on the Cat thread.
On the other hand I sold my last 44.1 out of frustration. I was breaking front arms and shock shafts once a week. The issue was not just my driving either. At the Cactus this year I watched 2 44.1's break front shafts in the same race and these were A main pro drivers. At least you can buy all the parts you need. I feel its a trade off. A great handling but somewhat fragile car. I guess it depends on your driving style. I am more of a go for the quad kind of driver.
I also feel your reasoning for switching may be reversed. The more you drive and the better you drive eventually it wont make a difference what brand you drive. Maifield or Cav would lap me driving a rtr with a nicad battery and foam tires.
Last edited by zipperfoot; 04-21-2012 at 07:58 AM.
04-21-2012 | 10:46 AM
#1944
The 44.1 is a great car pretty much dialed out of the box. I havent boke in arm in Weeks and since changin to bb springs I havent broken a shaft since December. All the Wheelers will break when u clip a wall or pipe with a wide open 6.5 imo. Stay smooth and clean and youll be fine. At my home track I race against a bunch of kyoshos n some rangos and they break just as often.
04-21-2012 | 11:16 AM
#1945
04-21-2012 | 05:38 PM
#1946
front shocks keep blowing out
i just ran my .1 for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know
04-21-2012 | 05:53 PM
#1947
car runs great
hey guys car runs great after about ten min of run time I'm coming off with temps in the 140s with the motor and the power band is great lots of tq i updated the firmware and i have it set a 1-2-2-4 lrp tc the hitec 7940 is a beast of a servo in the setup no noise very responsive everything is good but i just ran it for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know
04-22-2012 | 11:46 PM
#1950
hey guys car runs great after about ten min of run time I'm coming off with temps in the 140s with the motor and the power band is great lots of tq i updated the firmware and i have it set a 1-2-2-4 lrp tc the hitec 7940 is a beast of a servo in the setup no noise very responsive everything is good but i just ran it for the first time at a track today handled great i just kept blowing the e-clip on the top of the shock piston and shaft it happened to me 3 times and ended up leaving a little early cause it kept blowing out any suggestions on what might be the problem i run 40 wt in the ft and 30 wt int the r i decided to buy some different e-clips to see if i can figure it out any help let me know
