B44.1 Thread
#1921
#1924
You think AE will come out with their own rear 12mm hex buggy wheel? Seems odd they did the fronts for the B4.1 but no rears while both JC and Proline make fronts and rears.
#1925
Tech Master
iTrader: (16)
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 1,578
I am using Orion packs...
Here is what I do know, the screws that came with the kit that I used blue loctite on have either stripped out the head or have broken the cheaper tools I had purchased (team integy titanium nitride). In all cases I have had to drill out the screw.
Next up is the company not providing proper battery standoffs to fit available saddle packs. How hard would it be to make the posts longer? Hell it took me less than 30 minutes to cut 4 pieces of all-thread. For a kit that costs almost 400 dollars I feel this is unacceptable.
Then we have the central upper support which again I have to modify to fit the jumper cable. There is no reason they couldn't cut reliefs within the support for these from the factory to better facilitate all saddle packs. Again for the price I don't see why they couldn't do this.
Now to simply fix the problems associated with my kit I must purchase additional screws from them, more battery standoffs, make extensive modifications to the upper support, and probably replace the lower plate as it was damaged while removing screws.
I honestly don't feel like this was all user error as well. I have had many hours of experience building sports cars and off road vehicles. I work with tools on an almost daily basis. I followed the instructions and was careful to ensure everything was built to specification.
This is in addition to the minor issues I am having adjusting the front of the car to remove the binding within the steering. All in all I would say my experience thus far has been poor at best.
Here is what I do know, the screws that came with the kit that I used blue loctite on have either stripped out the head or have broken the cheaper tools I had purchased (team integy titanium nitride). In all cases I have had to drill out the screw.
Next up is the company not providing proper battery standoffs to fit available saddle packs. How hard would it be to make the posts longer? Hell it took me less than 30 minutes to cut 4 pieces of all-thread. For a kit that costs almost 400 dollars I feel this is unacceptable.
Then we have the central upper support which again I have to modify to fit the jumper cable. There is no reason they couldn't cut reliefs within the support for these from the factory to better facilitate all saddle packs. Again for the price I don't see why they couldn't do this.
Now to simply fix the problems associated with my kit I must purchase additional screws from them, more battery standoffs, make extensive modifications to the upper support, and probably replace the lower plate as it was damaged while removing screws.
I honestly don't feel like this was all user error as well. I have had many hours of experience building sports cars and off road vehicles. I work with tools on an almost daily basis. I followed the instructions and was careful to ensure everything was built to specification.
This is in addition to the minor issues I am having adjusting the front of the car to remove the binding within the steering. All in all I would say my experience thus far has been poor at best.
I have built four of these kits and never had any of the problems you describe. I dont think its fair to blame the kit. The only fault I can see is AE does not suggest a battery size in the manual. Also the suggestion to heat up a part to thin the locktite will save you a lot of drilling and broken tips.
#1926
Everything you desribe seems to stem from batteries that are too tall. Instead of spending more dollars to modify the car how about purchasing a battery that fits? I believe 25mm is the tallest you want to run. As far as the front binding, did you install the set screws in the cvd's? They come with the kit but are not used. I know more than one person that made that mistake.
I have built four of these kits and never had any of the problems you describe. I dont think its fair to blame the kit. The only fault I can see is AE does not suggest a battery size in the manual. Also the suggestion to heat up a part to thin the locktite will save you a lot of drilling and broken tips.
I have built four of these kits and never had any of the problems you describe. I dont think its fair to blame the kit. The only fault I can see is AE does not suggest a battery size in the manual. Also the suggestion to heat up a part to thin the locktite will save you a lot of drilling and broken tips.
#1927
You don't have to use the set screw. You could just use the snap ring with a dab of CA to keep the pins in.
I don't like that idea, so I use the set screws with a little thread-lock, and glue the rings just in case. lol, beyond that, I run Durango outdrive boots (packed with grease) that also help keep it all together.
I don't like that idea, so I use the set screws with a little thread-lock, and glue the rings just in case. lol, beyond that, I run Durango outdrive boots (packed with grease) that also help keep it all together.
#1930
#1931
They have a front hex wheel for the B4.1 I am very surprised if they don't have a rear for the B44.1/B4.1 with hex's?? Hmm I'll look into that!
#1932
I've had nothing but issues since I finally recieved my batteries. First I have to extend the damn posts to make the batteries fit then I have to make space so the jumper cable between the two packs fits. I've still got suspension binding in the front end while turning. To top it all off I used blue loctite per their recommendation and I have broken 2 tools off trying to remove screws. Now I'm having to drill out screws I don't even have replacements for. I've put lord knows how many hours into it and still can't run the damn thing. So I've got a 1200 dollar paper weight sitting on my workbench. You can't even begin to imagine how pissed off I am, I baught what was considered the best for a reason. I can't sell the damn thing because I'd just lose money, and yet now I don't even want to work on it.
And secondly, another thing regarding the blue thread lock. You only need the smallest dab when using it. Its not used to 'glue' screws in, but to stop vibration of metal to metal contact that causes them to undo. Again, ive stripped screw heads becuase of this too, now i know just to use a dab. And as suggested, use heat to undo parts with thread lock, it works.
You shouldnt have to modify any parts on the car, it works the way it's designed. Good luck with the build
#1933
Yeah I'm running the hexes on my B4.1. I really hope AE comes out with rears so I don't have to switch wheels completely.
#1934
Hello B44 peeps,
I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.
Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.
What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.
Thanks!
I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.
Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.
What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.
Thanks!
#1935
Hello B44 peeps,
I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.
Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.
What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.
Thanks!
I raced mod 2WD buggy for several years back in the old days of the RC10 Team / Worlds kits, circa early 90's. I got a lightly used B4.1 off this site and have been practicing a lot for the past 6 weeks. Surprisingly, my previous race experience really helped me get driving good again pretty quickly.
Now that I'm not a teenage kid and can pay for this hobby myself, I'm really eager to try 1/10 4WD buggy. I'm still trying to keep the costs down as I have a family these days.
What I really want to know is: If I can get a good condition B44 for around $150 vs a clean B44.1 for around $220, which is the better route ? In the long run, will that extra $70 really provide me with a better kit re-build and/or tuning performance experience ? Keep in mind this will probably be the only car I have and run for quite some time. I've read the differences and which parts are new and upgraded on the .1 , but have no real world experience with any recent car aside from the B4.1 ... which was quite dialed the way I got it.
Thanks!
I would go 44.1 to get the dialed chassis, motor mount, V2 shocks, bleeder caps, and LiPo ready...
Kurt



1Likes