Heya,
i was testing some BB springs on my B44.1 on a quite slippery, loamy track, with GHEA pistons installed and FR 35W/ RE 30W oil filled.
First, i tried FR LOSI blue/ RE TeamDurango lightblue and the car felt a little on the soft side, both front and rear.
Now, i'm running FR LOSI black/ RE LOSI yellow and on the workbench it feels a little too hard, but on track i like it more then my first setup.
I'm still reading different opinions on the dialing of the BB springs, but my personal feeling is telling me that the LOSIs are a bit softer, compared to the AEs. So, i feel the LOSI blue front way softer then the silver AE, and the LOSI white rear way softer then the green AE. Too soft, i think.
I could be wrong...
It all seems a little confusing
Would you guys choose different springs on slippery tracks?
Don't really want to use KYO springs, because they even seem to be less dialed then the LOSIs(i just tell what i read in that petitrc-chart)
Cheers,
ron.

I started working on these a while ago. Finally got around to building prototypes. Lowers the wing 0.35".

Not too low.

Looks great!
Will you sell some of them?
I sure would buy some!

I've had nothing but issues since I finally recieved my batteries. First I have to extend the damn posts to make the batteries fit then I have to make space so the jumper cable between the two packs fits. I've still got suspension binding in the front end while turning. To top it all off I used blue loctite per their recommendation and I have broken 2 tools off trying to remove screws. Now I'm having to drill out screws I don't even have replacements for. I've put lord knows how many hours into it and still can't run the damn thing. So I've got a 1200 dollar paper weight sitting on my workbench. You can't even begin to imagine how pissed off I am, I baught what was considered the best for a reason. I can't sell the damn thing because I'd just lose money, and yet now I don't even want to work on it.

Sorry to hear this, have a bear or something...the reedy and orion battery fit the car really good that i have seen....i got some taller packs through a buddy but never installed them knowing it was going to be a problem

I am using Orion packs...

Here is what I do know, the screws that came with the kit that I used blue loctite on have either stripped out the head or have broken the cheaper tools I had purchased (team integy titanium nitride). In all cases I have had to drill out the screw.

Next up is the company not providing proper battery standoffs to fit available saddle packs. How hard would it be to make the posts longer? Hell it took me less than 30 minutes to cut 4 pieces of all-thread. For a kit that costs almost 400 dollars I feel this is unacceptable.

Then we have the central upper support which again I have to modify to fit the jumper cable. There is no reason they couldn't cut reliefs within the support for these from the factory to better facilitate all saddle packs. Again for the price I don't see why they couldn't do this.

Now to simply fix the problems associated with my kit I must purchase additional screws from them, more battery standoffs, make extensive modifications to the upper support, and probably replace the lower plate as it was damaged while removing screws.

I honestly don't feel like this was all user error as well. I have had many hours of experience building sports cars and off road vehicles. I work with tools on an almost daily basis. I followed the instructions and was careful to ensure everything was built to specification.

This is in addition to the minor issues I am having adjusting the front of the car to remove the binding within the steering. All in all I would say my experience thus far has been poor at best.

Use a lighter to heat up the screws that you used loctite on, it should soften it enough to let the screw come out easy.

I think part of the fun of the hobby is figuring out how to make things work.

You should have seen the Yokomo MR-4BX I used to run.

forcewave:

Can you run the jumper under the rear top plate? My buddy does that on his bullet connector saddles. I have small reliefs cut in mine (which reduces the strength of the plate; I wish I didn't need it) to fit the wires on my packs...

As for the posts, don't follow the instructions. Loc-tite the screws through the chassis into the posts, but do not loc-tite the long set screws into the posts. Toss the set screws and use 4-40 SHCSs that are long enough to handle your batteries. Thread the thumb screws up tight with the heads of these screws, then remove the screws from the posts with the thumb screws (or with your 3/32" hex driver) to install/remove the batteries.

Right now I'm working on having an injection mold made so I can have parts that I can actually use. What you see in the pictures is from an Objet 3D printer. The parts are fairly strong but I don't think strong enough.

Maybe if AE was interested I'd be willing to send them my Unigraphics computer model so they could try them out (in case they read these forums)

That isn't going to help. They suck at using hand tools and would probably end up eating you anyway.

Sorry, couldn't resist.

really? boo I thought it'd be a direct fit

oh well I have a spare part for when I get a b4.1

The c-hub will work. Putting a 2mm washer under the pall stud isnt that a big of a deal. When using them on the 4.1's you dremel off the nubs on the u-brace. Alot more work there.

Ive ran them on mine and have real good luck. Just trow them on and try it.

Good luck....

A little feedback....

I have been trying different big bore springs, i've tried losi green front and white rear and finally kyosho yellow front and white rear...The kyosho by far are a better spring and make the car feel great..

On another note:
I'm starting to dislike this hole ball diff situation, it seems like they dont last to long....is the bfast set up any better? I wish the had a gear diff but then again you would have to tear it down to change the oil to different weight...i want to try ceramic balls and bfast washers...

what is this c-hub or c brace i see people talking about?

The Bfast diff is the best setup out there by far. The standard AE ball diffs also last a heck of a lot longer than most others out there. Ball vs Gear diff as been a hot debate lately, personally I prefer the direct and fast tuning of the Ball diff. It's not too big a deal to pull and rebuild them every couple months. The Ceramic balls will feel like butter in the diff, the high quality Ti Nitride will feel almost as good and last longer. The hot ticket for me has been Ti Nitride diff balls and ceramic thrust balls, super smooth and great longevity.