They may be., I did that on my B44.1

TBH, It's just more to for me to do. . Easy to just stick the closed cell in them and glue them up,

I may try a few different foams in a few weeks. I just about 4 new sets of tires.

For the tenth time.

Ran my shorty and full sized packs back to back. By far the shorty pack felt more consistent, but as expected the heavier pack made the buggy more stable over a washboard or tight whoops. Also, I felt the full sized pack threw the buggy around a bit more, but I am sure I would get used to it with time and compensate. My vote goes to the shorty.

Question, if I overshoot a landing on a big jump and land the buggy flat, I can get a pretty severe hop from time to time. Should I go up slightly on the oil, use smaller pistons, stiffer springs, etc. Basically I would like to increase dampening slightly without stiffening up the suspenion. I emphasize "slightly" because the buggy is pretty much dialed except for the occasional hard slap. I run the big bore springs and alternate between the red/white or red/yellow springs. What would you guys do first? Other than learn to downside the jump more consistently... of course.

hideeho
which end bounces? which pistons? I assume the rear & #2. increase by 2.5wt on that end, or both if both bounce. if youve got #3 pistons you might try lighter oil by 2.5-5wt & #2 pistons all around.

you won't like the answer...

You don't tune for overshooting the jump.... you spend the extra 20 min that you would wrenching on your car practicing to down side the jump. Sounds harsh, but I would want (and have had) someone tell me to leave the effin car alone and learn to jump properly.

now if you had a problem with the rest of the track.... that's different.


One thing everyone should kinda realize by now, there really isn't much variation of setups for the 4.1. The main tuning is done with tires. It's back to the whole B3 mentality where 1 setup works everywhere and you adjust with tires. take it fwiw...... just my .02

So true.. main reason why I now have around 6 different brand of tires

right on!!you will like how this buggy drives!so easy its stupid,any info you need on it just pm me and ill help you out,

zipper foot,the key is not to overshoot,but we all do,we had a large ski style jump and i over shot it a few times and had just a little bounce,it will happen we just need to learn to land on the back side and hammer the throttle down and the cars like a sling shot.glad you liked the shorty,i don't think ill ever run my full size again,might just keep it for my kids car when i get it

ok ok im gonna bite the bullet after work and gt my first short pack,,gonna put in a full day tryin to dial it in ..im running 30 wht associted oil/losi red spring in the front and 27 5 associated oil and lose yellows in the rear..i have the ballast weight /avid rack /+8 chassis.should i go ahead and pick up the 0 degree hubs? John what would u change for a "balanced" wcrc set up it felt pretty good latley not crazy agressive but very planted and consistent with the standard pack but i hear this is the way to go ..approx battery position also ..im gettin a venom 65c 3800 shorty..unless someone tells me not to really quick ahaha

You should ask Danny for some insite,

i drove his car and it was way awesome...felt very consistant...

Wheelman aka Brett turned me on to the promatch shortys a d there flat out awesome,don't run the venom!I'll get you my setup in a min

Hey rory,I have a worlds car,my set up is really close to what Josh numan gave me.I'm running a 3.0 toe and o hubs,I don't know how much of a difference it would be with the .5 hubs a d 2.5 toe block.our shocks are pretty much the same but Im using losi oil but I just bumped mine up to 32.5/30 since losi is alittle lighter.run the c-hubs with shaved u brace, one washer under the ball stud.I added 1/2 oz in front of the servo,1/4 ounce in the rear triangles and the Ballast weight,1/2nd next to receiver,.1.5 pads in the back for the battery.I'm no pro and I'm still learning alot on how changes effect the car,right now my car was really good at sdrc and it docent have nearly the traction Westcoast has,so if I'm good there it ought to be really good at Westcoast.

ohh i been lurking all over dannys set up..i happen to catch him on the phone just now and i gotta be carefulll cause last week i was peeking at his set up and tryin to copy it.i saw .5 rear hubs and thought hmmmmm maybe i dont need zero degrees .but last week i didnt know he was messin with the short chasis so he had a diferent set up that what alot of people are runnin ..i think he was just testing it ,

thnks mannn..i am kinda one to just try one thing at a time and see how a pack or two driving it with changes helps or hurts me.but recently i have been goin crazy tryin to every single thing i can (its addicting)..Only reason i am considering the venom is casue i have had good luck with the two i have and they are quite powrfull for a "decent" discharge (30c) battery.the 30 c i have seems more powerfull that 50c gens aces i have.they have really stood the test of time and it looks as if i will get a good discount.just ognna get one and then ill look into comparing them with what others are runnin A pair o zero degree hubs are waiting for me at wc for tmrw morning so ill have those on to try this updated setup...hope it dosent scramble my buugy consistancy i have been workin so hard on

The promatch is a 60c so its awesome for stock,I just got to the point where it felt good and I've left it ever since,once my driving gets better I'll play with it more,now I just need more packs and more wheel time with the cAr

The answer Waflet gave was what I was looking for. The reason I asked the question in the first place was because I have not had this issue with other brands and wanted to get some insight from someone with knowledge of how the car reacts to changes. No where in my post did I ask someone how to tune my car so I can drive better, LOL.

Learning how to tune a car and driving the car go hand in hand, but are two totally different disciplines altogether. Your answer to my question implies that the hours we all spend tuning our cars will not help make us better drivers. If that is the case then why don't we all buy Ready to Runs?

I race at SRS in Arizona. On any given night there may be 95 to 100 entries. Out of those, 10% of those racers are factory team drivers including Maifield. Out of those, maybe 5% will downside a jump perfectly every time. The difference is if a pro misses a jump, chances are his car is properly tuned and would not bounce if he slaps the chassis.

Take a look at some of the Cactus videos from this year. There is a triple in front that some guys were quading. The "Downside" is almost nonexistent, so chassis slap was almost guaranteed.

Most of the time I can take the criticism but in this instance you were way off base with your reply.

You mean to tell me that the next time one of the pros offers me a tuning tip, I should say no thanks I'll just go practice some more instead?