Does pretty much everyone run the +8 chassis now? My plan was to run it stock then add the +8 later, but I want every advantage I can get now.

There's a track that runs outdoor that is smooth so I want my buggy to be the most optimal.

The longer chassis is definitely better. Even on our super tight indoor track I prefer the +8. The car still has plenty of steering...its just more stable.

i have a worlds kit and i run the pro match 60c shorty lipo on blinky 17.5 (x12 17.5)i run the ballast weight,1/4oz in each rear triangle and 1/2 oz in front of the servo,i run on a med to high bite clay(west coast raceway) and the shorty seems faster,a lot better on takeoffs and landings on jumps and quicker from corner to corner,i have a full size that I've tried but keep going back to the shorty pack.i run it 2 1/2 pads in the back.i run yellow/red losi bb springs,2 pistons and 30wt and 27.5 in the rear,i also run the c hubs,the cars money right now,i am going to try the white rears and some orange fronts soon

..

Will Losi 22 non-hex rims fit on B4s?

22 non-hex? i thought all 22 rims are hex, old xxx pin wheels are the same as the b4 tho

i tried searchin for it as i am sure this has been covered a few times in this thread but the search engine didnt help me..i am running both a b4.1 and a t4.1 and i am running into a problem with the transmission seriously binding when the trans housing screws are snugged tight..its seems to especially be the tranny bolt that goes holds the wing mounts also (body mount on t4) seems to be the one that is doin it..i have to run that srew pretty loose for that smooth feel im looking for..is there something i am doing wrong with assembly or is this just a really common thing in the b4.1/t4.1 trans..it seems to perform ok with that screw loosend up but i jst dont like the idea of a "looser" bolt ..could i run a lil loc-tite on the end of the screw that might make it "feel " like its not goin anywhere but not be snugged to the point that its binding? thnks in advance

I believe it mentions in the instructions that you are supposed to run locktite on those screws, just snug them up so you tranny still runs free. You will be fine.

Unfortunately, that's the nature of the beast. And you will definitely want to use loctite on each of the screws or you could end up with your motor plate flopping around in the breeze. I actually found one of my cases where when you put it together with no screws in place the diff rubbed on the inside of the case. As soon as you put the screws in and tightened them at all it smoothed right out.

You have to use locktite to keep it down. What I do is I insert the screws through the plastic and add a little locktite in the motormount plate before I screw it all the way down. This way the loctite doesn't get caught up in the plastics.

The screws should not go past the slipper hub (metal circle thing). If your hub is now bent due to the screw pressing on it, replace it.

no, i run the standard chassis.

I've heard the top shaft spacer is too long also, i would sand it a little shorter and reinstall, like 1/32" or less off it. I know this is a common issue so try a search, i hear more about it from SC10 owners for some reason. You could also try a new spacer if you don't want to sand it, a bad batch caused some to be manufactured longer. Also make sure the bearings are well seated in the case

this is how i was taught to fill shocks/bleed them, and that when you re-extend the shock shaft, it should retract slightly? maybe this a dumb question but you said "try it this way" what other ways are there?

not chime in on your input to the other guy, but my car pushes a tad bit mid-corner to exit. so if i went to 25* caster blocks i should pick up more exit steering, what are the adverse effects? I already run 5 limiters in the front shocks, too many? or add more

not chime in on your input to the other guy, but my car pushes a tad bit mid-corner to exit. so if i went to 25* caster blocks i should pick up more exit steering, what are the adverse effects? I already run 5 limiters in the front shocks, too many? or add more[/QUOTE]

5 limiters in the front shock the max you should be running is three try that

25 caster will make the car to twitchy..5 is too much..the most ive heard of running is 4..i run 3..also are you running c hubs? and how many spacers are you running on your U brace?