racer
Having fun with your internet put downs ?



I told everyone why steel is better ......






Adam

Use old flat spotted diff balls ?

When it only will be rough and gritty and not perform well ?


You need my help , really .....






B righty ,

Use Endust when cleaning the car !

The wax will keep the pins nice & smooth & track testing shows ENDUST carries more corner speed .. O Yeah !




I'm such a smart azz....

Carbide sure seems to be a little easier to set/deal with...

when you guys are done with the balls check this out:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/r-c-item...onversion.html

What are we looking at?

Production level extended chassis!! If I didn't already have an awesome one made by Trimmings I would be all over it

what he saw ^

Those'd be stretched aluminum B4 chassis kits.

@ George: You say a lot of things I don't agree with but I leave it at that. To answer your question, no, I do not use flat-spotted balls in my diff. I haven't built a diff with the name Fido since 1994 or so when I bought my first Stealth-equipped car (truck!) and reassembled the diff the way I had received it...which turned out to be false. Since then I've never had a problem with building a Stealth diff, whether it be with chrome steel balls, carbide or ceramic. I've also never been one to crank the slipper down, thereby reducing the chances of a barking diff.

I'll give you an example of how I came upon this realization. When I was in high school and didn't have the money to be able to simply replace parts when they could be used again, I still had a smooth diff because my thrust bearing balls were the only thing I always replaced when I rebuilt a gritty diff. I used a set of carbide balls and 2 sets of rings racing 2 times a week for 9 months at an indoor track but replaced the thrust balls each time the diff got gritty. That was all that *I* needed to get the diff back to being smooth.

You can sleep soundly tonight knowing that the last thing that I need is your help taking care of the most trouble free, smoothest designed, mass produced ball differential on the market. I hope there aren't any Cavemen on the board...

Those chassis's are SICK looking ! Too bad the bodies will not fit them correctly on the sides though... : ( (Maybe a re-tooling will follow?)

WOW! timing can't be more prefect for me. I'm swappin my RTR's electronics to LRP/sonic/Savox so might as well get a +8mm in the mean time!

Thanks!

Here's a few photo's how I made mine.

Photo 1. Measure out where and how much you want to cut out.
Photo's 2, and 3. Install the chassis in the jig and then clamp it down.
Photo 4. I make the rear cut first, it seems to work better that way for me.
Photo 5. Make the front cut.

Then glue the front and rear together with CA.
I install the vertical carbon fiber braces.

Total time 1hr for the 1st one, (had to make the jig).
After that maybe 15min.’s ea.

P.S. I would have posted more pic's, but for some reason this website only let's you post (5 pic's per post)????

where is the Dremel cut chasis's ?

NICE...Great job on the chasis...

So, your saying you can measure, cut 2x, sand, glue, cut the braces, fit and glue in 15 minutes? I'd love to see a youtube of that. If so, more power to ya! I made a custom jig (which makes it alot easier) but you are clearly a better man for knocking it out in 15 min. I need some tips because I've sold over fifty "extenze" chassis and never made one in 15 minutes. Please share.

As for the tips I really don't have any, but heres a more detailed version.

I just use a 12" Dewalt Compound Miter saw, that set up with a laser on the vertical axis. It has a new fine tooth blade.

Once cut I set the two parts on a 3/4 glass table. The rear clamp was cut from the same wood as the saddle, and it's inserted into the battery tray area then I weight it down with 20lbs of lead this keeps the chassis lined up and flat perfectly.

I use the chop saw to cut long strips of carbon fiber to the proper height for the braces, they are cut to lenght with Dremel and another Dremel tool with a sanding disk to smooth the edges.

I use a clamp to hold the two inside carbon pieces in place, then I glue them inplace, remove the clamp.

Clamp the two outside pieces of carbon in place, once satisfied the that everything is lined up hit it with some CA.

Remove the lead and and wood from the battery tray, hit the seems with CA, when it's dry I scrape the CA glue ridge flat....and your done.

As for sanding, after the first few I have found there no need.

Heck it's taken me more time to type this than it would to do it for real, but I hope this helps.

Ordered 2 rcrd aluminum chassis. One is a +4 t4 chassis and a + 12 b4 chassis since I already have a +8 made up. Will post some feedback once I run them. Sure do look nice