Sorry, lack of lingo comprehension. Swapping ends? Where the rear wants to come around either side almost relentlessly? Battery is all the way forward. The manual shows 5 spacers in front.

The bearings are all new avid's. Single rubber shield. Thank you kindly.

I have a brand new ball diff. BFast rings, bfast lube, brand new carbide balls, and ceramic thrust balls. I tried using it once but I just don't get the hang of adjusting them. I know it takes time, and patience. I have a friend who wants to show me but we both rarely get to the track so......either run or wrench. I was however running the gear diff with light grease and the result was it was "diffing out" according to my friend. He said if I wasn't gonna use the ball diff, drop in some 7k diff fluid in the gear diff. Worked so much better. Now it's a matter of fine tuning the traction. Using the right tires. Using correct sauce. Pushes a little upon corner entry under power. Mid and end of corner it hooks up under power. Prior to doing diff, I removed the bump steer washers and it helped the stability alot as well.


So, First, bump steer washers are gone, then did diff fluid and it's amazing. I gained a lap. Now i'd like to settle it down just a hair more. Just a hair more stability.

AZRON, thanks for the info. Didn't mean to be rude.

I know from experience, I need more behind the wheel practice. Spend all day yesterday practicing. I like the truck much better than last time I drove. And drove it enough to actually tell a difference in how it was from last time. Same track. Same layout.

Thanks for your help folks. Is there any other reading I can do to learn about effects of changes and terms and their definitions. Heard about a Hudy book. Haven't found it yet though.

Was thinking of swapping the stock body for a bulldog. Just not into the look. My biggest problem is rear end traction though.

I have a 1/2 oz under rear shock tower, 1/4 oz in all 4 triangles. Had 1/2 oz next to rx as per a setup sheet I saw. but man, sure seems like alot of weight. Also, has anyone found a good piston for the shocks? The AE pistons seems to have a bit of "bleedby" I swapped my FT B4.1 shcoks on my B4 with TQ racing big bores and boy were they smooth.

if you run the bulldog body, you get more steering and if you get a wing and dont cut down that much of the back then you gain rear traction. best of both worlds

and ball diffs are better in general but if you dont know how to properly adjust them then they can suck

hope this helps

try moving it back 1 spacer. it might help smooth it out some.

the other thing i want to ask if how many washers you have on the steering block (bump spacers) i run 2 because it smoothed out the steering alot, and seemed like it gave it more steering in the middle of the corner even while being smoother.

i have used both the bulldog and the finnisher body, and the jconcepts gave the buggy alot more steering, but because the way the rear of the body is it gave the wing alot cleaner air, so not only did if give it more steering, the use of the 6 1/2" hi clearance wing gives that combo alot of rear bite also..

imho the finnisher + hi clearance 6.5" wing (cut down to 2 or 3 lines) is alot better than my bulldog body could have ever dreamed.

Speaking of wings... I was tired of the wings on our T4.1s lasting a day, and my son likes the way truggies look. So, this is what I did to his truck to satisfy both of us. We can't wait to see how it performs.

hey u race at WC I remember turn marshalling your race

Yeah, my son and I both. This is his truck. Mine is black with just some yellow in the front. We're both in the beginner class. If this works well on his, I plan on doing the same to mine.

whatever helps YOU do better is what you should use, if its better foryou then dont listen to other peoples criticism and critiques, thats the key to get better and then move out of that class

Ran the Finnisher on my B4 8m for the first time last night and broke my personal best by about 5sec....


They told me it would be only slightly more aggressive compared to the Punisher.

I agree...

The 8m likes the extra steering , needs it actually and makes for a lot better performance than any other body I have use to date on the new chassis...

Don't expect a harder car to drive , the Finnisher is not darty at all .

I tell you now , get the thing for your 8m and hurry up about it ....



still using Brents set-up , except .....


back shock
drill #3 piston with a #55 & 27.5W oil , green spring

2.5 pivot block , 0 degree rear hub

Very fast ....

These are what I reference:

http://users.telenet.be/elvo/

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ber-links.html

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...they-work.html

I have the rcshox pistons in my T4.1. Kind of spendy, but I like them a lot. Hope that helps.

I am running a T4.1. Not a buggy. I used the buggy as a reference once cause I ran both. Now I sold everything to concentrate on 1 class, so that I can actually learn something instead of continually looking for satisfaction through multiple vehicles.

Not knowing how to properly adjust the ball diffs, is exactly why I don't run one. Trying to keep it loose and simple. Trying to get better and become more consistent.

WOW! Thank you very much. Understanding how and why things work, is what I enjoy about the hobby alot. Learning and trying things. Would like to get to a point where my focus is less on learning, tinkering and more driving

Sure thing. I have two other docs that I keep in my smartphone for quick reference, maybe you're interested in their content. So, they are attached.

I don't know if this has been asked before but sometimes when I land off of a long jump, my b4.1 spins out on contact with the dirt. Is this normal and how can I help make it better?