SC10 Thread
Any one run the proline flotek and any of the newer jconcepts body's can tell me if the front wheel wells are any wider on the jconcepts bodys?
my hazard wheels are rubbing badly (cutting) when suspension goes down on the front with flotek
my hazard wheels are rubbing badly (cutting) when suspension goes down on the front with flotek
I wanted to try the revolutions for the diff bearings and put the rubber side out and metal side in, but they were all sold out when I was buying bearings and ended up going with a mix Acer and BOCA ceramics.
I just bought my first SC10, a used RTR RS with upgraded electronics (Tekin RS, Novac 13.5, Spektrum dx3e Tx/ 3100 Rx), ball diff). I have a couple of questions:
1) one rear wheel has a ton of play in it. When I pull the wheel off, the hex looks really worn on the bearing side. Because of the extra wear, the hex sets too far into the bearing and the wheel nut bottoms out on the axle before the wheel is tight. Should there be a shim or something between the bearing and the roll pin to avoid this wear on the plastic hex, or is this a fault with the plastic hexes?
2) With all trim and rates on the transmitter set to neutral, there is a ton more steering to the left than the right. With everything off, the wheels will move to full stop in both directions, so I don't think anything is binding. I have to turn the left steering down a lot until they turn equally on both sides, then turn up the steering rate in order to get back reasonable steering. Is it possible I need to just re-bind the transmitter with all trims set to neutral and that will fix it, or is there an adjustment in the trucks steering that might be off?
3) Other than getting the FT shocks, is there a preferred setup on the stock RS shocks that works well for medium bite indoor clay?
1) one rear wheel has a ton of play in it. When I pull the wheel off, the hex looks really worn on the bearing side. Because of the extra wear, the hex sets too far into the bearing and the wheel nut bottoms out on the axle before the wheel is tight. Should there be a shim or something between the bearing and the roll pin to avoid this wear on the plastic hex, or is this a fault with the plastic hexes?
2) With all trim and rates on the transmitter set to neutral, there is a ton more steering to the left than the right. With everything off, the wheels will move to full stop in both directions, so I don't think anything is binding. I have to turn the left steering down a lot until they turn equally on both sides, then turn up the steering rate in order to get back reasonable steering. Is it possible I need to just re-bind the transmitter with all trims set to neutral and that will fix it, or is there an adjustment in the trucks steering that might be off?
3) Other than getting the FT shocks, is there a preferred setup on the stock RS shocks that works well for medium bite indoor clay?
I just bought my first SC10, a used RTR RS with upgraded electronics (Tekin RS, Novac 13.5, Spektrum dx3e Tx/ 3100 Rx), ball diff). I have a couple of questions:
1) one rear wheel has a ton of play in it. When I pull the wheel off, the hex looks really worn on the bearing side. Because of the extra wear, the hex sets too far into the bearing and the wheel nut bottoms out on the axle before the wheel is tight. Should there be a shim or something between the bearing and the roll pin to avoid this wear on the plastic hex, or is this a fault with the plastic hexes?
2) With all trim and rates on the transmitter set to neutral, there is a ton more steering to the left than the right. With everything off, the wheels will move to full stop in both directions, so I don't think anything is binding. I have to turn the left steering down a lot until they turn equally on both sides, then turn up the steering rate in order to get back reasonable steering. Is it possible I need to just re-bind the transmitter with all trims set to neutral and that will fix it, or is there an adjustment in the trucks steering that might be off?
3) Other than getting the FT shocks, is there a preferred setup on the stock RS shocks that works well for medium bite indoor clay?
1) one rear wheel has a ton of play in it. When I pull the wheel off, the hex looks really worn on the bearing side. Because of the extra wear, the hex sets too far into the bearing and the wheel nut bottoms out on the axle before the wheel is tight. Should there be a shim or something between the bearing and the roll pin to avoid this wear on the plastic hex, or is this a fault with the plastic hexes?
2) With all trim and rates on the transmitter set to neutral, there is a ton more steering to the left than the right. With everything off, the wheels will move to full stop in both directions, so I don't think anything is binding. I have to turn the left steering down a lot until they turn equally on both sides, then turn up the steering rate in order to get back reasonable steering. Is it possible I need to just re-bind the transmitter with all trims set to neutral and that will fix it, or is there an adjustment in the trucks steering that might be off?
3) Other than getting the FT shocks, is there a preferred setup on the stock RS shocks that works well for medium bite indoor clay?
)But, if that still doesn't work I suppose they could be worn, just replace em'.. they are only about $5. If you really want something nice, pick up the JConcept aluminum clamping adapters ($12).
2. Sounds like the servo horn is not put on right. What you need to do, is turn on your transmitter and set the trim to "0". Then, turn off the car and transmitter. When the trim is at "0", your wheels should be straight and even. So, if they are not straight and parallel when it is set at "0", pull the servo horn off of the servo (make sure the servo doesn't move from where it was when the trim was at "0") and put the servo horn back on so that the wheels are as straight and parallel as possible. Then, you can do the slight adjustments with the transmitters trim knob.
3. I run on an indoor medium bite clay track, and use grays or sometimes greens on the rears, and reds on the front. I use the stock setup as far as camber, ride height, springs, etc. and it works GREAT! I have tried many other setups, but I always end up coming back to the stock one
The new Jconcepts silverado body looks crazy wide in the front (probably to accommodate the hazard wheels). I haven't used the new Jconcepts bodies personally, but it's probably worth a shot.
Just trim back the spots that are rubbing little by little and when your done smooth it out with a rotary tool. My flowtech fits perfect with the hazard +3 and blockade tires.
I thought the new Jconcepts 0200 body was designed to run the +3mm offset and clear?





