You usually use the standard length RPM cups and the turnbuckles should already be in the kit. You do not need the silicone diff lube and you are going to need to do a hex conversion to use those rims. Sorry for the negatives.

The truck is a great truck and you should be happy with it.

You will be glad you ordered the Factory Team version and not the RS. But, the Cyclone wheels will not work on the Factory Team truck unless you also convert it to hexes. But you can use the stock wheels still. And the Factory Team comes with a ball diff, so you wont need the 5000cst diff fluid unless you run a gear diff. And it does already come with titanium turnbuckles, so you will have a complete set of spares. Not a bad thing as I have bent one getting wedged under a pipe before. The rest of the list looks okay. I ran the RPM bumper for a few months, but switched back to stock. Pick up a set of lead weights, front and rear spring kits and you will be set.

You are right the Turnbuckles are included in the FT Kit, and I think they are the Standard RPM Cups (not the long shanks).

Hmm didnt know about the wheels, I thought the FT kit was the same as the RS Spec and came with the 12mm hexes.

Can anyone confirm?

If not then..... bugger.

The FT does not come with hexes. You can make up a AE hex kit for around $15. Little more if you want some clamping aluminum hexes.

Great choice to move away from the RTR if you've been in the hobby prior. You'll want to use the +3 Hazzard wheels instead of the AKA wheels you listed below. Also, to run the hex wheels, you need to convert your factory team to the Hex system (steering carriers and axles for front; hexes all around).

The diff oil isn't needed as you're a given a ball diff... but if you're planning of using it to "bash", I suggest starting off with the gear diff complete set.

The FT kit does not come with hexes, but comes with upgrades that would cost about as much as the kit if bought separately.

You should probably get 30wt shock oil (just in case) and at least one set of aluminum rear hubs (the plastic ones are weak). For the hubs, ASC9864 is a direct replacement for the stock 0 degree plastic hubs and you'll need ASC7933 and ASC7935 to use them. I preferred the ASC9866s, personally, and a full set (9864-9867) is worth it for tuning options if you drive on a variety of tracks.

Hmm Bugger.

Ok so I am doing another order

Does anyone have the part number for the hex conversion kit? (if there is one?)

*EDIT* NVM I found it.

No planning to bash, purely going to be racing.

For the SC10 Hex Conversion do I require the new Hub Carriers or will the Hex Conversion work with the Standard FT kit?

You will need 9880, 9881, 9883 for the AE route. You will also need some wheel nuts for the front. I prefer using the JC hexes. Some people like to change out the screw for a little longer one.

what is the difference a change in the battery will make compared to a different motor?

for example: If I have a 10.5 motor and 7.4v 2 cell lipo compared to a 13.5t with a 11.1v 3 cell lipo or any combination.

I dont know how to ask this exactly, but what are differences that will be seen? Is there a chart that shows the different effects and comparison.

Is running a 11.1v with a 13.5t motor like running a 10.5t motor with a 7.4v battery? Does increasing the cell count have the same effect on the car as gonig with lower turn motor?

Thanks Brian, so..

9880 = SC10 Steering Block, Hex
9881 = SC10 Front Axle, Hex
9883 = SC10 Wheel Hex Adapters

9880 & 9881 Are for the steering and front wheels, whilst 9883 is the actual hex block for front and rear for the wheel to mount on too.

Do I have that correct?

Basically...

On 3S the motor will not have to work as hard to reach the same speeds as it does on 2S.

However most SCT races (both club and national down here) are capped at 2S only. You will also be trading off speed for weight, which will directly translate to your handling.

You will have to go through your whole setup again.

easier to explain with KV (motor rpm per volt)
A 3,000kv motor on 2s (nominal voltage) would have a top rpm around 22200

A 1,500kv motor on 4s would have the same top rpm but have more torque and use nearly half the amp draw.

That is correct. You also need a pair of 8/32 nuts for the front axles and a pair of 4/40 mini locknuts for the ball studs in the new steering block. You can go to AE site and check the RS manual. I always forget about the mini locknuts.

If you decide to go the J-Concepts hexes, I would get the Factory team roll pins and also a package of wheel shims unless you buy the AE hex adapter kit to. Those include a set of standard pins and the shims.

So aluminum suspension arms are a No No all together? Wouldn't it add more stability to the car?

Are there any aluminum parts anyone does recommend getting? Shock Towers? Bulkheads?

Any replies are greatly appreciated........

Just put New PL Gladiators, J concept Hex adapters and a Savos 1251MG servo in - my RTR SC10 now drives like a different truck

Whilst I'd like to get shocks and a few other bits I think if I do any more mods I may just buy a FT kit.